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2G crank sensor

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Crazyjoker77

15+ Year Contributor
159
2
Oct 9, 2004
Medicine Hat, AB, Canada
Okay so I'm having a no start issue with the car which im lead to believe is due to a faulty CPS. I have had a previous issue with it but payed a shop to replace it but this time I'm going to dig into it myself. Now I'm aware of where its posisitioned on the car (under the lower cover by the crank pulley) but i was wondering if i could test it electricaly for signal and proper voltage and proper resistances. but I'm not sure where the connector is located in the engine bay as well I would like to know the proper testing procedure and specs.
 
Haynes manual should have the specs on it as far as how it should ohm out. The connector should exit at the top of the lower timing cover, just before it meets the upper timing cover. Just look at the timing covers near the cam gears. You will see some wires exiting through a grommet, then going into a connector.

Butttttt......your car should not be like this, but I have seen the wires run out of the grommet then go way up under the intake manifold before they reach the connector.

Also, why do you believe it is the CPS? Was your car running then all of a sudden it died and wouldnt start back?
 
There are a few reasons why I'm looking towards the crank sensor.

1. Yes I was driving then it started not wanting to idle at all i had to keep giving it a little gas to keep it from stalling out then about 5 blocks later it shut off and would not start up.(would crank but doesnt sound like it was firing at all) which was the exact same as the first time i had problems with the sensor.

2. I've eliminated most other possible problems.
-Coil pack, transistor, plugs(have spark on all cylinders and resistance checks are all within spec, new ngk plugs)
-fuel pump and FPR(gauge was hooked up)
-ecu (tried a known good one and the light comes on and goes off at the begining.
-boost leaks
-Coolant temp sensor (reads properly on my logger and removed it and checked resistances in different temps of water)

3. I believe that the injectors are not being told to fire from the ecu(although i havent hooked my MIA noid light up yet to verify this but there is no smell of fuel in the cylinders after cranking for several minutes and the plugs are dry). this was exactly what happened last time the crank sensor broke and quit giving its signal to the ecu.

4. I,ve also had a random misfire problem ever since i had the last crank sensor installed and have been tracking it down and again everything points to the CPS.

5. The only other thing that I am considering is that my Maf is bad(im using a GM 3" maf and maft mounted in blow through in the UICP). Only reason i say this during my boost leak tests i noticed that it was leaking air out of the plastic part that joins the two halves together. And before it quit it was behaving exactly like when i blew off my IC pipes off the Throttle body Elbow. But I am under the belief that the car should still fire up even with no maf.

I'm still open for suggestions on my problems but it still seems that the crank sensor is the heart of all my issues.
 
I'm pretty sure only 94.5-96 cars had a separate crank position sensor and a cam position sensor. I think your car is a 98, so it should have the CAS on the passenger side of the cylinder head. If you do, there is no sensor behind your cam gears under the tbelt cover.

If it is the case that you DO need to replace this crank position sensor, just go ahead and get a 1g CAS and create the wiring harness as it will allow you to adjust your base timing.

Here's a how to:
Installing 1g CAS in a 2g
 
Your car idle with a bad (or unplugged) GM MAF. A friend forgot to plug mine in recently and it idled pretty rough (and very rich), but still did.

You can use this to help locate plugs in your engine bay.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html

TuRBoTaLooN, all 2g's have a separate CAS and CPS. It's just the 2ga's have the CAS behind the intake cam gear whereas the 2gb's have it on the opposite end of the cam like the 1g's do.
 
TuRBoTaLooN, all 2g's have a separate CAS and CPS. It's just the 2ga's have the CAS behind the intake cam gear whereas the 2gb's have it on the opposite end of the cam like the 1g's do.

Yup, you're right.....my bad!

Either way, getting to that sensor behind the cam gears is a biotch.
 
I'm thinking check the Cam Angle Sensor before you dig down behind your lower timing cover. Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought you would have neither spark or fuel if it was the crank position sensor. Since you have spark that would eliminate the crank position sensor possibility and its simple to test the cam angle sensor. You'll kick yourself in the a** if you get under there and then find out with was your cam angle sensor after digging under for the crank position sensor.
 
I'm thinking check the Cam Angle Sensor before you dig down behind your lower timing cover. Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought you would have neither spark or fuel if it was the crank position sensor. Since you have spark that would eliminate the crank position sensor possibility and its simple to test the cam angle sensor. You'll kick yourself in the a** if you get under there and then find out with was your cam angle sensor after digging under for the crank position sensor.

I've heard before that I should lose spark as well but as I mentioned in a earlier post that I had a crank sensor destroy itself once before and It was the same situation. I had spark on all cylinders and fuel pressure at the rail but no signal from the ECU to open up the injectors...

Ill check the cam angle sensor first since its easier to get at.
 
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