Resolved 2G Ball joints and suspension

[Zen Hakuren]

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First thank you to the community for helping me through my 2g problems. Secondly, and I guess thirdly, I have two more issues. Issue one is with removing the two ball joints above. Tips tricks methods etc. And the torqe specs on all of the suspension components. I am replacing everything but the shocks so I'll need a pretty much full chart. Actually if you have the shock specs too I could use them ... Might replace those l8ter after this ball joint failure I don't trust much of anything I haven't looked at or replaced.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Welcome! Can you post a better picture of the ball joint you are having an issue with? At least a different angle?

 

[dwb]

I recently picked up a ball joint separator and it had been a great tool addition. Makes this job so much easier.
I've also used a pickle fork (if you don't need to save the boot). Sometimes when I'm lucky I can flip the castle nut upside down and thread it until even with the top of the joint so I don't smash the threads and use a hammer to pound it off.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

I recently picked up a ball joint separator and it had been a great tool addition. Makes this job so much easier.
I've also used a pickle fork (if you don't need to save the boot). Sometimes when I'm lucky I can flip the castle nut upside down and thread it until even with the top of the joint so I don't smash the threads and use a hammer to pound it off.

+1 on the ball joint separator and flipping the castle nut methods. I did both when i had to do all 4 ball joints on my truck last year and separating them became least of my problems.

 

[Zen Hakuren]

Welcome! Can you post a better picture of the ball joint you are having an issue with? At least a different angle?

Here ya go

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Since the rubber boots are wrecked on them, you can use a "picklefork" and a big hammer to seperate them but I also do what @dwb and @SixBolt_16G say, turn the castle nut upside down, run it on until it sits even with the balljoint stud end and smack it with a hammer. Sometimes that is all it takes (especially with tie rod ends) but sometimes it takes the picklefork to be wedged in and THEN smack it with a hammer. It usually lets go then.

 

[Tiki2777]

Pickup a cheap harbor freight ball joint separator if you don't own one already.
HF Separator
Make sure the hook part is placed on top of the threaded rod so the separator actually works as intended. Otherwise, you'll just be going nowhere and wondering why the tool sucks. Use a ratchet, no impact for tightening the tool's bolt down. OR, you'll end up wearing the threads down prematurely with no benefit.

ALSO....use some PB Blaster type penetrant and some heat if it's really stubborn

 

[Zen Hakuren]

I managed to get a separator for cheap and it work ed well, a little too well on the ball joint that had detached. The damned thing went flying and I have no idea where it went. Thankfully it didn't sound like it broke anything.

Now for the second half of my question, torque specs. Lower control arms tie rods etc. Pretty much everything that goes from the hub to the body or the strut.

 

[Mello]

These should answer your torque questions

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[Zen Hakuren]

These should answer your torque questions

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Much appreciated

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If you can't find what you are looking for, also check out Brians thread. It is super helpful.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/torque-specifications-specs-spec-nut-bolt.382492/

 

[TerminalTalon]

There’s a lot of methods for balljoint removal/replacement. Separators, hitting the knuckle with a hammer, specific balljoint removal tools, using the nuts to hammer on. It just depends on the space, skills and tools.

 

[Mello]

@Zen Hakuren you're kind of new to our site. You may not have had a chance to browse through the "Resources" section yet. There's a lot of technical information available including the Factory Service Manuals nested in this section & can be downloaded.