Road Race Build 2G Auto Time Attack race build!

[Ben-Stian]

I like it. Looks pretty good so far. I'd be interested for sure since I'm planning to start AutoX next year.

If you not have time or dont want the hassle of making your own oil pan, you can do as I did and buy this Nice oil pan with doors inside from RaceFab in NZ.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Whats up everyone, Its easter and here in the UK we get friday and monday off so a 4 day weekend (dont know if the US has the same holidays)

As i had these 4 days i thought i might as well make use of them and deal with stage 1 of my 2 stage process, over the break the engine will be kinda stripped down for some maintenance and few upgrades.

I had to fix an oil leak on my front balance shaft and the seal was not right last time i put it in so this time i hope its good as it seemed to sit better this time around. Along with waterpump and bearings etc it was 2012 since i last changed it and the waterpump was squeaking which got annoying.
New skunk2 pro cam gears and Toda Racing kevlar timing and balance belts. Decided to go red this time not HKS purple.

While that was all off i did the kiggly HLA plate regulator and installed ARP head studs.

I swapped in my Evo 9 OFH finally to get rid of the old oem one as that sucked.

Both my trans and oil coolers are mounted and need final supporting and found out i have no room for big AN fittings so i have to order some racing banjo bolts instead to keep flow up and not limit it as much as possible.

I am not quite ready for the new turbo but i did install the new FMIC which i know it will suck with the T25 but its only for a while and free's up the space for my trans cooler so it shall be ok for a short while,

Topping it off is my nice lovely valve cover! Oh how ive waited years to get this on!

Waiting on some bends to come in as im making my intercooler piping from alloy for now till the turbo goes on then i will redo it out of stainless that i have.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Back on the car this weekend and i had some ups and then downs,

I managed to mock all the intercooler piping up which was good and then forgot my regulator for my argon (woops) so i went to work to grab last last night, then today (sunday) i decided i didnt like the pipes the way j have them mocked up, reasons being are i have a tight 180° from the T25 outlet and the pipes are just too long and pressing against my lower rad pipe, and as im making them all 1 piece its a bit more tricky to remove aswel, i did try to remove the T25 comp housing on the block but its not going to work so my plans are to buy a 180 silicone coupler as they are tighter and then makes removing them easier as both ends move the same direction,

The TB side of the piping works well all 1 piece but im going to use a 90° coupler instead of pipe as it will make installing it alot easier and also its tighter and how i want it when i swap it to stainless.

So today was mostly installing some AN lines i made up and getting stuff fettled away and the last part was cutting the front bumper to fit the intercooler. Which took ages as i did a bit then checked then did some more.

It now fits (just) hopefully i can have this finished up once my parts come in at the weekend so all going well will work how i now re planned it all, we shall see the outcome.

Once i have all this done i have plans for a test day to adjust handling and setup suspension and see how the car goes on a fun practice track day,

Once its all buttoned up and lines are on i will upload all them oics but for now this pic will do.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I took today off work because i finally had my new silicone coupers come in which would allow me to finish mocking up the piping and weld it all up. I got everything together and started adding fluids but ran out of time and almost light for the coolant so i shall try do that sat/sun depending on time, then i can bleed it all out and make sure i have no fluid leaks on the new AN lines and fittings,

I do have a air leak on my TB gaskets but i dont have new ones of these so for now i will have to live with it unles i can find some in the UK,

 

[slowwhite]

Is that stock shielding below the hood latch? Or did you have that made?

Looks.like it would channel air to the radiator well and looks like it gets into all the little areas as well. (Been forever since I've seen stock plastics I don't even remember what all these cars came with)

If it's stock and works well might be an excuse to go hit up the local pull a part and see if I can find some

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Is that stock shielding below the hood latch? Or did you have that made?

Looks.like it would channel air to the radiator well and looks like it gets into all the little areas as well. (Been forever since I've seen stock plastics I don't even remember what all these cars came with)

If it's stock and works well might be an excuse to go hit up the local pull a part and see if I can find some

It is stock, i went with this cooler as it fits in the gap nicely and i knew most of it would be ok for oem ducting but until i fitting it up properly i didnt know it all works well, at least until i remove the crashbar it will work well, when j do that i will make an upper cannel to keep air over and into the rad from the cooler

 

[Black95TSIawd]

How thick is the IC? Its mounted pretty far forward.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

How thick is the IC? Its mounted pretty far forward.

It is more forward then others but thats because of the place i had to settle with on location i guess, its 3.5" thick according to Treadstones info

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Another weekend on the car and its 99% done now, i had my order come in midweek (even though they sent me the wrong couplers) it was all resolved the next day so it was not a major issue,

The weekend involved final welding of the pipes and getting fluids in and thats exactly what happened (after it would not start) i scared myself when i first tried to start it as it would not fire and could not figure it out then my friend popped by and we spoke and we was talking sensors and then it clicked in my head the crank sensor was not plugged in from then i did the upper timing cover so with that plugged in it fired right up! Yay.

Couple of minutes later i see oil and trans fluid on the floor! So killed it off to investigate!
Trans fluid was coming from my new temp sensor in the multi port block i bought. So to fix this i did it up a tad more as it has a crush ferrel type washer inside but that did not help so i ended up thread locking all the threaded areas and now i have stopped the seaping so thats 1 delt with,

The other leak was oil from the top AN fitting on my cooler, it seemed like it was not seating right on the banjo adaptor i bought and thought if the angles were off but both listed at JIC they should be the same 37° angles but it turns out they need to be done up super tight! Now i have stopped the leak here too (i hope) i left it to idle for about 30mins while i was bleeding the coolant and checking it all and no more oil so i think i got it, i also checked all other AN fittings again to do them up more,
Never having used AN fittings before i dont know the best way to use them but im learning.

Other then them issues i think 2 leaks out off all the fittings i done was not bad and decent actually,

This weeks job is to tidy some bits up and install the bumper and go get fuel and then test drive it.

Oh and i had to order a new oil pressure sensor as my used one i got with my MTX-D kit dont read anything but 0 or 100 what ever way the wires are, so i think the sensor might be faulty so going to try a new one and see if it fixes the issue. If not then i will have to do some more guessing at what could be wrong but the wiring all seems correct and reads temp just fine.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Small progress update, or rather lack of! I took the car for a drive to a show on the sea front in sat and melted a fan! And a plug! Not exactly sure what happened to cause this but after some convos between afew folks a small o2 housing gasket might be making alot of heat in the bay,

I was hoping to get to a tuition track day in may but if i cannot resolve this issue then i wont make that, last resort is to put my 16g on and turn the boost way down, i will be adding the ecu and injectors soon anyway so it wont be for long without the supporting fuel upgrades so for now it should be ok,

 

[95REGF150]

Ah the factory A/C fan. Its always the first to go once the engine bay temps get very far above factory. Funny mine went right after I installed a tubular manifold and FMIC too (factory ducting removed). I replaced it with another factory one and it melted in less than a week.

Originally I thought it was because this fan doesn't come on unless the A/C is on or the engine gets above 210. So I kept my A/C on to keep the blade going to see if it kept the fan from melting and it did. But if you left it off and it got heat soaked at all it would curl up just like yours.

So I did some more testing and unplugged the main fan and went for a drive with the A/C fan on. Even under high temperatures the main fan blade does not get warped like the A/C fan blade. For some reason the two fan blades are made of different plastics.

You will see that most guys end up replacing the A/C fan with an aftermarket fan because of this problem. What I did was go to the junkyard and get a second main fan blade. Then I retrofitted it onto the A/C fan motor and housing. It has taken on a darker color than the main fan but has never melted like the original A/C fan blade.

P.S. loving the FF valve cover. Did you get it Red anodized directly from them or have it done somewhere else?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Ah the factory A/C fan. Its always the first to go once the engine bay temps get very far above factory. Funny mine went right after I installed a tubular manifold and FMIC too (factory ducting removed). I replaced it with another factory one and it melted in less than a week.

Originally I thought it was because this fan doesn't come on unless the A/C is on or the engine gets above 210. So I kept my A/C on to keep the blade going to see if it kept the fan from melting and it did. But if you left it off and it got heat soaked at all it would curl up just like yours.

So I did some more testing and unplugged the main fan and went for a drive with the A/C fan on. Even under high temperatures the main fan blade does not get warped like the A/C fan blade. For some reason the two fan blades are made of different plastics.

You will see that most guys end up replacing the A/C fan with an aftermarket fan because of this problem. What I did was go to the junkyard and get a second main fan blade. Then I retrofitted it onto the A/C fan motor and housing. It has taken on a darker color than the main fan but has never melted like the original A/C fan blade.

P.S. loving the FF valve cover. Did you get it Red anodized directly from them or have it done somewhere else?

I actually have my original big bulky fan still so i shall zee about getting that one in, i also thought about putting gold tape on the fan blades to reflect the hest but not sure if that woukd work or not, i got another AC flan blade coming but of course dont want to melt that one aswel.

Its crazy hoe the FMIC could create an issue but i guess it all adds up, blocking direct air and more boost and heat makes a huge difference but i do have the factory shrouding and ducting still so maybe the IC is just a tad too big to let cool air go through. Hopefully can sort this issue out and stop them from melting again.

As for the valve cover, i got the anodizing done myself here in the UK,

 

[chrysler kid]

Those tubular manifolds are garbage, that's why you are melting the fan blade.

If for some reason you plan to keep using it you will need to wrap the manifold extensively to prevent the valve cover from heat damage. You will also notice abnormally hot hood, in Texas I have also seen paint discolored from the heat transfer onto the bonnet.

I strongly suggest removing that exhaust manifold and putting the stock one, and the stock heat shields back on. Under hood temperatures are more important than having some fancy exhaust curls to show off that tiny turbo

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Those tubular manifolds are garbage, that's why you are melting the fan blade.

If for some reason you plan to keep using it you will need to wrap the manifold extensively to prevent the valve cover from heat damage. You will also notice abnormally hot hood, in Texas I have also seen paint discolored from the heat transfer onto the bonnet.

I strongly suggest removing that exhaust manifold and putting the stock one, and the stock heat shields back on. Under hood temperatures are more important than having some fancy exhaust curls to show off that tiny turbo

I hear ya, i have the FP manifold and heatshield to go on with the 16G, also a turbo blanket is on my list to buy.

But for many years i have had this same setup and its never melted anything, just since i installed the FMIC and boost restrictor thats when it melted, i know they are not the best and tubular manifolds are a problem with heat and i will have this issue in the future when i get a GTX turbo as i want a V band turbine housing so imngoing to have to think hard about heat control then,

 

[chrysler kid]

Yeah the problem is more about heat transfer than it is about the intercooler, remember the temperature of the engine isn't changing, now you're just soaking the engine bay from lack of air flow

So you can keep the tubular manifold and make a heat extractor vent in the hood, or just go back to the original style manifold.

I had to make special ducting between the radiator, condenser, and intercooler to keep my ac working. I also cut the ears off the AC fan to make it sit flush against the surface of the radiator to be more effective at pulling air through the condensor and radiator. I think I had to cut the mounting tabs off the radiator as well

I'm not sure on your safety standards but the other option is to create a slit in the bumper on the drivers side just off center to the Mitsubishi logo to keep air flowing as well.

For reference though even in 110 degree temps and a stock style radiator and fans my car doesn't have a problem with the heat.

My turbo blanket didn't hold up very well. If you get a cheap Chinese one don't expect it to last, it's more of a 1 time use and falls apart and dries up if you try to remove it

 

[95REGF150]

Definitely want to try and keep underhood temps down and the tubular manifold isnt adding anything to your current setup. But I'm telling you put a blade from the main fan on the A/C fan and it won't ever melt again. It's just good piece of mind. When I had the tubular manifold my hood would get so hot you would see it steaming at stop lights when it was raining haha.

Compare the two side by side and you'll see. The A/C blade is made from some kind of crappy pourous and chalky white plastic. You want the smoother, denser, more yellow plastic the main blade is made of. Not very technical I know but I'm not a thermoplastic expert to be able to say what specific type of plastic they actually are.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Yeah the problem is more about heat transfer than it is about the intercooler, remember the temperature of the engine isn't changing, now you're just soaking the engine bay from lack of air flow

So you can keep the tubular manifold and make a heat extractor vent in the hood, or just go back to the original style manifold.

I had to make special ducting between the radiator, condenser, and intercooler to keep my ac working. I also cut the ears off the AC fan to make it sit flush against the surface of the radiator to be more effective at pulling air through the condensor and radiator. I think I had to cut the mounting tabs off the radiator as well

I'm not sure on your safety standards but the other option is to create a slit in the bumper on the drivers side just off center to the Mitsubishi logo to keep air flowing as well.

For reference though even in 110 degree temps and a stock style radiator and fans my car doesn't have a problem with the heat.

My turbo blanket didn't hold up very well. If you get a cheap Chinese one don't expect it to last, it's more of a 1 time use and falls apart and dries up if you try to remove it


View attachment 540531

Currently dont have plans to cut holes in the bumper, want to try keep as little holes as possible and i even will be closing up the old fog light holes soon for better air flow,

Im going to get back to working on my hood as im getting a carbon one make with a vent so that should help, just need to get it prepped for moulding, so its all in the plans and such just no time yet

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Definitely want to try and keep underhood temps down and the tubular manifold isnt adding anything to your current setup. But I'm telling you put a blade from the main fan on the A/C fan and it won't ever melt again. It's just good piece of mind. When I had the tubular manifold my hood would get so hot you would see it steaming at stop lights when it was raining haha.

Compare the two side by side and you'll see. The A/C blade is made from some kind of crappy pourous and chalky white plastic. You want the smoother, denser, more yellow plastic the main blade is made of. Not very technical I know but I'm not a thermoplastic expert to be able to say what specific type of plastic they actually are.

Yeah i know they bad for heat, it was good at the time as my stock cast one cracked but the new FP cast one will be way better to retain the heat, i will get this under control though, just lots to do and change now and no time to do it all yet

 

[chrysler kid]

The fp version is fine, even the stock one generates tons of heat though. In my mind the heat shield helps the manifold retain the heat, and in turn the exhaust gasses carry out more heat out of the tail pipe as the exgaust gasses escape.

For example a few hard wide open throttle pulls without a shield and you can almost burn your face when you pop the hood, with just the exhaust heat shield over the manifold that issue is gone. The hot manifold transfers the old high temps back into the comparatively cooler exhaust temps when the motor is not at peak power and heat.

You could always just use header wrap on the manifold as well

 

[tunernewb92]

The fp version is fine, even the stock one generates tons of heat though. In my mind the heat shield helps the manifold retain the heat, and in turn the exhaust gasses carry out more heat out of the tail pipe as the exgaust gasses escape.

For example a few hard wide open throttle pulls without a shield and you can almost burn your face when you pop the hood, with just the exhaust heat shield over the manifold that issue is gone. The hot manifold transfers the old high temps back into the comparatively cooler exhaust temps when the motor is not at peak power and heat.

You could always just use header wrap on the manifold as well

What temps are you seeing? I regularly go up to 215 - 220*F with my A/C on in 100* Texas heat I'm fully shrouded with no leak through, 68HTA, FP Manifold with blanket, stock bottom heat shielding.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The fp version is fine, even the stock one generates tons of heat though. In my mind the heat shield helps the manifold retain the heat, and in turn the exhaust gasses carry out more heat out of the tail pipe as the exgaust gasses escape.

For example a few hard wide open throttle pulls without a shield and you can almost burn your face when you pop the hood, with just the exhaust heat shield over the manifold that issue is gone. The hot manifold transfers the old high temps back into the comparatively cooler exhaust temps when the motor is not at peak power and heat.

You could always just use header wrap on the manifold as well

I totally understand, i do feel more heat then i did before on the stock manifold with shields and i was lucky to get away with it and guess now im not so lucky , time to get progressing again to make it right and help control the bay temps once again

 

[chrysler kid]

What temps are you seeing? I regularly go up to 215 - 220*F with my A/C on in 100* Texas heat I'm fully shrouded with no leak through, 68HTA, FP Manifold with blanket, stock bottom heat shielding.

Re-read your build, basically mine is the exact same rebuild yours was, but I'm not pulling the motor

Coolant temps don't concearn me too much, currently running a 160 t-stat. long story short I was using a larger 90 oil filter and my oil pressure light would trip when the oil temps were too hot, with the shielding it made the problem less frequent, but it made me do all of the ducting and modifying the condenser fan to sit flush on the radiator. Since then I've never had a problem with my 70% distilled 30% pentofrost blue blend for coolant. I was one more flush from replacing the core this winter but it was able to come back to life last year miraculously. Also noticed the hotter my oil temps were the more frequently I would find oil leaks. I started running just straight vr1 20w50 and it seemed more durable in the heat than rotella and I haven't had any leaks since.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Re-read your build, basically mine is the exact same rebuild yours was, but I'm not pulling the motor

Coolant temps don't concearn me too much, currently running a 160 t-stat. long story short I was using a larger 90 oil filter and my oil pressure light would trip when the oil temps were too hot, with the shielding it made the problem less frequent, but it made me do all of the ducting and modifying the condenser fan to sit flush on the radiator. Since then I've never had a problem with my 70% distilled 30% pentofrost blue blend for coolant. I was one more flush from replacing the core this winter but it was able to come back to life last year miraculously. Also noticed the hotter my oil temps were the more frequently I would find oil leaks. I started running just straight vr1 20w50 and it seemed more durable in the heat than rotella and I haven't had any leaks since.

Me either, i want to see what i can do racing wise on a stock bottom end, since this is not really driven much on the roads i can consider removing certain things i dont need but on them few occasions i do use it on the road i have to make sure it wont kill itself ,

I ended up going 85% water, 15% coolant and half bottle water wetter. Thankfully i fixed all my oil leaks this time around so they can get as hot as they wish haha,

Thy shall be fixed and safe once again, just need to find time to do it all as i planned to be on testing in msy on trsck but thats now delayed but i want to race in the series in aug so i have some time yet but it comes around so damn fast!

 

[Scott McIntyre]

If you melted the A/C fan just driving on the street, then I'd suspect an exhaust leak. Check your manifold and turbo for cracks, make sure your bolts are all torqued to spec, and that your gaskets are good.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

If you melted the A/C fan just driving on the street, then I'd suspect an exhaust leak. Check your manifold and turbo for cracks, make sure your bolts are all torqued to spec, and that your gaskets are good.

I found a small leak on the o2 housing gasket underneath which wont help, but no idea why now! Since its been fine for years and i never touched that gasket, so for that reason im going to swap turbos with all new gaskets and i can reach all the bolts before the turbo goes in to be tight