The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Airtrek engine or 1G 6Bolt ?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jaximus

Probationary Member
20
0
Apr 18, 2009
London, ON, Canada
Most people don't know what vehicles these 2G engines are pulled from but I believe there out of the older Airtrek cars built in Japan... They are JDM motors and some of them are actually out of EVO I-III cars but very very rare! like stated on the Road Race Engineering site:

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

I particularly like these 2G Airtrek motors because they have a lesser chance of getting crankwalk since they were built in Japan... correct me if Im wrong! The first 3 pics are of one engine and the last is also a 4G63T but a diffrent motor then the first 3.

The Question I have is would I be better off getting one of these or just getting a 6bolt from a GVR-4 ? eg. What would be easier to install? I dont have an old 2G engine to get parts off of either!

I was told the AWD Manual trannies off 2G JDM motors were useless because of the gear ratios... can someone explain?

Also, RRE states in their link that ALL 2G motors except the Lancer EVO 1-3 engines were built in the US.... But this cant be so since there is the Airtrek engine As Well write?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
They built the engines in the U.S. and then shipped them to Japan. There is nothing special about a JDM 7 bolt other than it possibly has really low miles. It is still just as prone to crak walk. If your really that scared then get the JDM 6 bolt but its going to be more headaches to install than the 7 bolt, especially since you said you don't have a spare engine for parts. You also have to be careful about what car the engine came out of since the Automatic cars had smaller turbos than the manual transmission cars. I remember reading that the final drive ratio is different on the JDM transmissions so you would want to swap it with the one from your 2g but you probably don't have a transmission either. You better make sure everything matches up gear-wise or you could destroy your transfer case, rear end, and new transmission.

Even when getting a JDM engine you're going to want to at least change the timing belt and asociated parts. I would also advise getting some ARP headstuds and a multi-layered steel head gasket while the engine is out of the car. It will end up costing you about the same as building the engine yourself, but i don't know if that is a valid option for you especially since you're in Canada and parts can be hard to come by. Your best bet would probably be to get the JDM 7 bolt. If you get an Evo 3 engine then consider yourself lucky.
 
Thanks alot for your reply! lots of useful new info!! Yeah, I don't have a Transmission from a 2G either so I'd need to hunt one down. I'm not saying your wrong in any way about these motors not being built in Japan, Its just that I'm not completely convinced. In an email to Mike @ RRE who knows a bit about these "Airtrek" engines told me "The Airtrek was never sold here in the US so any motor for an Airtrek would be built there for there". Therefore making them less prone to Crankwalk? still not sure...
 
It doesn't matter whether it was built in Japan or the U.S. it can still crankwalk. Any engine can crankwalk, even the 6 bolt you just don't hear about it as much. I rebuilt a 7 bolt engine to use in my GST, and if I had to get a JDM engine to swap in I would go with the 7 bolt. Only because it has higher compression pistons though. They both have their advantages. The 6 bolt has beefier rods but lower compression pistons and no engine girdle. The 7 bolt has thinner rods (still pretty strong) and an 8.5:1 compression ratio but has the dreaded crankwalk of course. If your really that scared then don't bother with the 7 bolt at all just get the 6 bolt.
 
That motor pictured above has an Evo3/RVR intake manifold (they are the same except for the TB flange inner diameter and maybe a vac port or two), so that's a bonus. And the throttle cable attaches on the 'wrong' side of the TB, so you'd have to use yours in order to make it work in a DSM. There's a huge thread here about those intake mani's, and it may have info about the reversed TB which could give you some more info about what that motor actually came out of.

Edit: Here ya go...an RVR, which has the motor pictured above.
http://images.google.com/imgres?img...x-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbs=isch:1
 
To DashLaflash - Kool, Yeah Im really not that concerned about crankwalk and would much rather take the small chance of getting it with the 7 Bolts than messing around with trying to install a 6Bolt in my 2G and at the same time spending more money to do it. Mind you I will not be pushing more than 300 whp for at least 4 years. After that I would like to build up a short block to hold around 500whp. With that said.... could I actually use the 7 Bolt short block and rebuild the internals or would you use a 6 bolt short block? eg. Are the 6 and 7 bolt cast blocks themselves Identical ?
I also attached 3 photos of different 7 bolt 4G63T's that Im interested in since there about a 2 hr drive to see them and could pick one up myself without paying huge amounts for shipping.... Is there one that you would choose over another?:hmm:

1= $990
2 = $1391
3 = $1394
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Sorry for not checking this thread in a while. Ya the 7 bolt should be fine for 300whp. That's exactly the amount of power I want to run with mine. There are a ton of different build paths you can take but as far as the blocks themselves they are both cast iron and practically bulletproof. The only thing that makes the 6 bolt stronger than the 7 bolt in stock trim is that is has thicker rods. This would be awesome if it had the same compression pistons as the 7 bolt but they're lower. If you're going for big power with the 6 bolt you should probably get the kiggly girdle because the 6 bolt doesn't have a girdle it just has caps. Some will argue this is unecessary for anything under 600whp though. To answer your question though You can just rebuild the internals on the 7 bolt for 500whp.

Engine choice: I would pick number 3.
The first one pictured would work but it has the 95-96 cam angle sensor. You would have to swap the firing order on the coil pack to work. Its not a big deal and might actually be your best choice because its the cheapest. The second one pictured has the 1g cam/crank angle sensor and I would guess it was a 1g seven bolt. Putting this one in would be the same as doing a 6 bolt swap. And finally the 3rd one pictured has the 97-99 cam angle sensor which is the one you need for your car. It would be a direct drop in. Something that will give you trouble on any of the engines will be the turbo and throttle body since they are JDM and different than the ones that came on your original engine.

Edit: I just noticed the engine control unit (ECU) pictured with the engine. If you use the computer that comes with the first engine you will not have to swap the firing oreder on the cylinders. I would probably get that one because its the cheapest. That doesn't mean that its in better shape though. Go take a look at them.
 
I will add my 2 cents. I HAD, key word "had" a "JDM" motor in my car for a week. All of it's numbers for compression were good and had a warranty. So the garage where my car is at got it in and installed it. A week went by and it had crank walk. It was a 7 bolt as well.

You will be much better off just sourcing out a block here for much much cheaper. Goto a junk yard and find one as they are the same exact engine. All 4g63T motors in their specified year/s will be the same regardless of where it was built because it's the same manufacturer parts.
 
For the cost of one of those, you could probably buy a 6-bolt really cheap that needs a rebuild and have it fully built up.

For real, I bought my 6 bolt block with a good crank for $100. Wish I would have gone this route first.
 
I will add my 2 cents. I HAD, key word "had" a "JDM" motor in my car for a week. All of it's numbers for compression were good and had a warranty. So the garage where my car is at got it in and installed it. A week went by and it had crank walk. It was a 7 bolt as well.

You will be much better off just sourcing out a block here for much much cheaper. Goto a junk yard and find one as they are the same exact engine. All 4g63T motors in their specified year/s will be the same regardless of where it was built because it's the same manufacturer parts.

Ya but the engine got crankwalk because it was a 7 bolt not because it was JDM. I agree with you guys that he should just rebuild his own but he's up in Canada. He might not have the ability or the resources.
 
I particularly like these 2G Airtrek motors because they have a lesser chance of getting crankwalk since they were built in Japan... correct me if Im wrong! .
You're wrong.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i605.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid605.photobucket.com/albums/tt139/svar/Crankwalk_0001.flv">


There were no US-built Evo 4's to my knowledge.
 
There is no such thing as a 2G Airtrek...Airtreks came only with Detuned Evo 7 GTA motors and transmissions.

RVRs...Depending on year, Grade, Came with a large variaty of options

late model Hyper Sports gears had Almost everything evo3 including front mount intercooler.

Earlier Hyper Sports had Top mounts. 460cc injectors and TD04s (including the Manuals)

98+ RVRs had Evo 4 motors and TD04 turbos
 
Wow! Thanks Alot guys! that broadens my view a whole lot! I will go take a look at the 3 engines this comming weekend and mayby pick one out... I agree with DashLaflash that My situation here in CANADA is a bit tougher to find a 6 bolt engine thats been blown and selling for cheep and then getting the additional 2G engine parts I would also need. It would be nice to rebuild one though! but I dont think it would be cheeper than just buying one of these.

Thanks Again!

I know there is no such thing as a 2G Airtrek. I just called it that because it fits into a 2G eclipse that comes from a Mitsubishi Airtrek mini Van. Lol.. sorry bout the confusion...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Griffin intercooler cores
    Griffin intercooler cores. Top to bottom flow. High cfm and heat transfer. 24x8x2.75 and...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top