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2g 6bolt swap check engine.

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tim4g63fast

15+ Year Contributor
225
5
Mar 1, 2004
grants pass, Oregon
Ok so i searched for this but have not been able to find it.

I have a friend with a 97 gst with a 6bolt swap. Her car has been throwing a check engine light like crazy. Its always the randome missfire code. At first I thought it may be something to do with the coil pack and capacitor not being grounded out. I fixed that still does it. I then went to the battery and made sure it was clearing the hood ok. It still does it after that.

So I'm wondering if anybody had any idea where to look from here.

I heard that some 2gs with 6bolt swaps sometimes have a problem with this and there is a way to get rid of it using a potentionmater one of of the ecu wires.

If there is please let me know.

thank for your insight
 
beings that I use dial up because I'm to busy putting money into my friends car my computer does not work so well. Under searching It almost always gives me a cannot display page. I have been able to get it to work once or twice but Still searching for stuff is not exactly cut and dry I normally have to do more than one search. there for I searched on vfaq a lot. for some reason my computer tends to run that sight alot easier. so I couldn't find it. anyways maybe you could email me a link or something to help out the less fortunate or you can be a jerk. either way your not much help now are you.
 
The best fix would be to get DSMLink and shut off the code for good, but here is the cheap fix quoted from Magnus Motorsports website (so you don't have to load it):

(Blake Heisler's Fix for misfire Check Engine Lights (CELs) when putting a 1G Cam Angle Sensor (CAS) on a 2G)

Many people using the 1G CAS on a 2G head have been running into problems with misfire engine codes while at cruise. Many different things have been blamed for this and many different fixes have been attempted.

This fix will keep the ECU from looking for misfires at all. This is the criterion that must be met before the ECU will start to look for misfires:

1. 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position

2. Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher

3. Intake air temperature -10C or higher

4. Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa

Now if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria the ECU won’t check for misfires. The value that would be the easiest to change would be the barometric pressure sensor. We’re going to add resistance to this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need to add more fuel with an AFC.

So let’s get started, Parts needed:

A 10K potentiometer (although a 5K would probably do just fine). These are available at any electronics store, if you go to Radio Shack ask for a volume control knob because they don’t know what a potentiometer is

Wire strippers

Soldering iron

Step 1: Remove the access panel on the driver’s side of the center console. You should now see four plugs with a ton of wires going to them.

Step 2: Pull out the top plug, it’ll be the one that’s the hardest to reach. Locate wire #85. It’s orange with a white stripe.

Step 3: Cut the orange wire in half. Solder one end of the wire to the center peg of your potentiometer. Solder the other end to either the left or right leg, it doesn’t matter which. Turn your potentiometer all the way counter-clockwise.

Step 4: Plug the harness back in and start up the car. It should sound like it did before you did any modifications. If the idle is choppy or the car won’t run you turned your potentiometer the wrong way.

Step 5: Add resistance to the barometric pressure sensor by slowly turning the knob on the potentiometer. Drive the car around; if you get a CEL then add some more resistance. Keep doing this until you no longer get the CELs.

That’s it, special thanks to Marco for pioneering this mod and to all the guys on the DSM1Gina2G Yahoo group for all the discussion, ideas, etc.
 
the "pot-mod" can be dangerous .
It can cause a lean condition and not recommended w/o fuel control and a datalogger.
 
Agreed, the best way is to get a dsmlink...it solved all my problems. I did the pot mod and it did more harm then helped. what coil pack are you using?
 
Maybe ill talk her into getting dsm link. that would kind help her all around since she is interested in modding her car. She doesn't have a logger yet or i would do it. Ya lean conditions are bad so ill tell here to either go with dsm link or to buy a logging equipment and possibly look into a afc. Although at that point and price i guess dsm link would be more attractive and not much more. thanks for the info.
 
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