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Spyder 2.4 still won't charge after known good alternator replacement.

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SlipknotBabe99

5+ Year Contributor
46
17
Jun 19, 2020
Southington, Ohio
TLDR; replaced alternator and still not getting any voltage from it.

I will give a little preface to how this started, one night I accidentally left the dome lights on after a drive home. I came out a week later to an obviously dead battery, I jumped it and it ran fine for a few days. I let it sit in idle for a while to build the battery back up since it was always dead after turning it off. While letting it idle it started to bog and misfire and croak out due to not getting sufficient charge. I limped it into my garage and here is where it sits. As long as I have a jump pack on it, it will run and drive just fine. So far I have done the following;

Replaced the alternator with one that was tested multiple times at different stores.

Checked for continuity from alternator to alternator fuse, the fuse itself, and from fuse to battery.

Check for ground issues, made sure everything was plugged in and tightened up correctly.

Tested the original alternator and found that it also tested good.

I'm left wondering what else could be the issue. After all, the car ran perfectly fine before I left the dome lights on. Maybe there's something I'm missing. I've also been wondering if I could just try a wire directly from the alternator to the battery but not sure if that would mess anything up. Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I know when it comes to electrical issues, there is almost never a concrete answer.
 
Glad you’re making progress. Some things to think about. Make sure the ring terminals on the end of the alternator wires are not corroded and are tight. I have seen the wires in the fuse box have an intermittent connection before which could possibly blow the fuse due to the weak connection. Does the alternator post still have the orange boot cover on the end of it?

-Daniel
 
To assist future troubleshooters, which fuse was it?
I imagine it was the main alternator fuse in the engine bay compartment. I had the exact same issue and it turned out the fuse was blown. Turns out upon further inspection the 2 bolts that hold it into place were loose. I replaced the fuse and tightened the bolts down and solved my problems.


As far as a replacement I bought one at a local parts store autozone or advanced I can’t remember as this was 10+ years ago. I imagine you can source one from them though.

Let’s hear it from OP though as this is just speculation.

-Daniel
 
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On a 1G DSM, I blew this fuse when I accidentally touched the alternator lug and ground (and a short spark).
Just for 1g reference. These fuses pull out and are not bolted in.
AGAIN, this picture was on a 1G, the OP has a 2G but I thought this would be a good place to show a picture and also say:
ALWAYS CHECK YOUR FUSES WITH A DMM. VISUAL INSPECTION IS NOT ENOUGH.

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On a 1G DSM, I blew this fuse when I accidentally touched the alternator lug and ground (and a short spark).
Just for 1g reference. These fuses pull out and are not bolted in.
AGAIN, this picture was on a 1G, the OP has a 2G but I thought this would be a good place to show a picture and also say:
ALWAYS CHECK YOUR FUSES WITH A DMM. VISUAL INSPECTION IS NOT ENOUGH.

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This is exactly why I asked if he had the orange colored boot on the alternator plug. Not saying it’s fool proof but definitely helps when working in that area if the battery is still connected. I attached a photo of said fuse I’m referring to. It is circled in yellow. 100 amp alt fuse. There is also an additional bolt and ring terminal in the back that retains the fuse to the fuse block.

-Daniel

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Daniel, is your picture a 2g fuse box?
Just for clarification purposes, thanks!!!
 
Daniel, is your picture a 2g fuse box?
Just for clarification purposes, thanks!!!

Sure is pap, sorry I mean pops 😆. I’m just kidding but you seem like someone that can take joke LOL. Some people obviously can’t anymore nowadays.

I figured I’d post it for future readers. I don’t own any 1gs, just 2g 4g’s and 420’s. I need to make my vehicle profiles so there isn’t confusion. Need to start a build thread too. But in the meantime I’m just here to try to help fellow dsmers. I owe this forum a lot as I’ve been here through simple google searches for 10+ years.
-Daniel
 
If you want to hear a really crazy one, one of the new tested good alternators i had on a second gen had shorted internally and was causing a 3mamp draw when the vehicle was not running.

Did a amp draw test and still had that 3ma draw until I unhooked the alternator fuse

So what cause the alternator fuse to blow in your situation? Was it the alternator fuse?
 
To assist future troubleshooters, which fuse was it?

It was the blue 100A Alternator fuse, symptoms may include;
No radio
Intermittent headlights
No interior lights
No power antenna
No horn

The only reason I didn't notice it earlier was because I tested the fuse and thought it was fine. I suspect when I put my multimeter probe in, I bridged the fuse momentarily enough to get continuity.

If you want to hear a really crazy one, one of the new tested good alternators i had on a second gen had shorted internally and was causing a 3mamp draw when the vehicle was not running.

Did a amp draw test and still had that 3ma draw until I unhooked the alternator fuse

So what cause the alternator fuse to blow in your situation? Was it the alternator fuse?

Still not entirely sure what caused it. My guess is that I had to jump it many times after I came out to a dead car and possibly gave it too much amperage, I did buy a few more fuses from my local parts store (Bussmann FLM-100) and I am going to keep it in the glove box in case it happens again.

I do need to get another alternator boot cover since the one on the car was torn from a previous owners install.
 
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