The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2.4 eagle crank or oem

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cornfed4G64

10+ Year Contributor
214
1
Feb 10, 2011
Lindwood, Minnesota
I have the opportunity to pick up a new in box eagle 2.4 for crank for cheap. Wondering if I should use that or not. Also a little history I have on my oem one is it was in a 800hp 1g so I know nothing about it other than that. I've heard they (oem) can develop hairline cracks that can only be detected by x-ray which I have not done.

This will be pit in a g4cs block with CP pistons and Manley h beams with the 22 mm wrist pin already machined.

Turbo will be a 6262 BB shooting for 600 hp.

Thanks in advance
 
It should be fine, just have it checked over by your machinist as Eagle products tend to be a little off spec sometimes.
 
I just got my eagle crank back for being balanced today. Machine shop actually charged me less cause it was almost perfect from the factory. They claim its good for 1500 hp but not many people making anything near that. I would get the eagle if I were you and sell the oem one. Just dont forget the eagle one needs to be balanced even brand new which only cost me 100 but was quoted 175. I just did it for sake of mind the rest is aftermarket with my luck that would be the one piece that falled ruining my other parts.

I know your building a g4cs and im building a 2.3 6 bolt but when buying parts I heard the manley h beam rods snap at 500hp in the 2.3 cause of the angle. They said to use eagle as they were made differently and could take the abuse alot better. They also said manley h beam rods were more meant for a built 2.0 and if I was going 2.3 I should get manley I beam or just switch to eagle h beam. I already had the manley ones so I traded my buddy who is building a 2.0 for his eagle rods when we compared I could see the differences the spoke of. Now if its true who knows but it was enough for me not to want to find out the hard way with a hole in the block. Not sure if this applies to a g4cs but just wanted to throw that out there.
 
It should be fine, just have it checked over by your machinist as Eagle products tend to be a little off spec sometimes.

This is truth. It's not uncommon for the journals to be off. I've even seen them come out of round.
 
If it's cheap I would get it and have it mic'd and magnafluxed. I'm currently running a stock 2.4 crank in my 2.3L stroker engine without any issues so far.
 
The Manley rods are the new 6 bolt 22mm wrist pins. I heard that eagle and manleys were about the same. The reason I got them is so I didn't have to have the wrists machined.

So go with the eagle?

Id go oem but I just worried about the oem crank as I've already broke one.

I would of went I-beams but was worried about rotating weight.
 
Eagle has pretty good customer service and as mentioned their cranks are balanced pretty well. Their H beam rods are also rated to 900/1000hp. If its cheap I would go with the Eagle and sell the OEM or keep for another project
Good luck
 
Last edited:
Eagle over OEM.

Sell the OEM to offset some of the cost.

I run Eagle rods and crank in my 8500 rpm 2.3

Hal
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top