2.3 stroker build ?'s

[moto x]

Ok Im starting my build. Just got a virgin block. Im planning on goin .20 over hot tanked, decked, powder coated. Im get a 2.4 mitubishi crank with a fresh regrind. Im looking at these pistons EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Wiseco Extreme Duty "HD" Forged Pistons w/ Rings (Stroker): 90-92 Mitsubishi Eclipse 6-Bolt

im undecided on rods. Will the stock rods work I know they can handle 400 hp witch is my current goal.

Im going with 280 bc cams.

arp everything

cometic gasket

ACL bearings



Now for springs. What spring would bennifit me the most.

Valves will stock for for now?

rebuilt pte 50 trim.


Let me know If you see anything I should change or if my setup parts list will all work togeather.

 

[cbrfrenzie]

I would say with a goal of 400whp, the standard forged Wiseco pistons will be fine. The "HD" ones are for applications making 1000+whp, so you could save ~$100 there.

Stock, or for peace of mind go with the Eagle rods.

As for valve springs, I would go with these bad boys: FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

 

[shredwin]

As far as rods, I would do Egles if I was you

 

[90laserRSfwd]

I also suggest using a forged rod (like Eagles, SCAT's, Manely's, etc.). As far as valve springs go any single spring should work well. Being that your building a stroker you won't be revving the motor up to high (or I would imagine so). You could as consider beehive springs, budget permitting of course.

 

[moto x]

I dont need Speacial rods do I? The crank jornals are the same between the 2.0 and 2.4 correct?

These work?

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Eagle H-Beam Connecting Rods: Mitsubishi Eclipse 6-Bolt 90-92

 

[FLASH1970]

If you plan on using any cam bigger than a 272, stock springs won't work. I would either go with a set of BC springs to go with the BC cams or get a set of Supertech dual valve springs. Using the dual springs requires special valve seals (fyi). Extreme psi sells them. I am currently rebuilding my 2.3 so we're kinda in the same boat.

 

[moto x]

Ya I found the bc ones. Im getting those. not a bad price on them either.

 

[jlr2196]

Not sure of how much power you plan on building in the long run but the HD Wiseco's are way overkill as mentioned and they are heavier. I'm not a fan of H-beam rods either, except in extreme applications. For a rock solid 400-500 horsepower street motor I feel the stock rods or a I-beam type rod is superior (I believe it was Scat that makes an I beam rod for 4g63's), due to the fact that for a street motor a lighter reciprocating mass is better, if you use lightweight forged pistons in conjuction with a stock reworked rod (shotpeened or side beams polished with ARP bolts and balanced) the motor will rev faster, in turn acting like a motor with more power. Since you have lightened the amount of mass the rod is throwing around it gives the rod the ability to handle more rpm and power! I try to nail this into peoples head when building street motors, as there are better places to spend money. You mentioned springs and again somebody mentioned you would have to upgrade if you go with a set of 280's which is correct. I would go with a set of 272's and take advantage of the low end torque your motor will make (a real street stomper) and use some lighter weight beehive style springs from and Evo motor, they seem to be a real bargain and drop in replacement.

 

[FLASH1970]

Ya I found the bc ones. Im getting those. not a bad price on them either.

Yeah, me personally, I like the dual springs for the peace of mind because you have a crank pushing the piston up farther due to the longer stroke, a bigger cam pushing the valves down farther and keeping them open longer. Having 2 springs pulling your valve back and keeping it there is better than one. I'm sure seeing that BC recommends those springs with the cams, they are perfectly ok to use. Just my 2 cents.

I'm subscribing to this to add my 2 cents and get other's opinions and experience.

 

[jlr2196]

A stoker doesn't move the piston higher in the bore, that is why you use a piston with a pin location higher, it's when the piston moves back down the bore that the stroker makes more cubic inches by going further down the bore. Therefore you are not putting the top of the piston any closer to the valve, only the camshaft will do that. Dual springs are for extreme applications, they require more power to push the valve down because of the higher spring pressure, you don't want to waste any more power than necessary on the springs, only use enough spring for the cam you are running.

 

[FLASH1970]

A stoker doesn't move the piston higher in the bore, that is why you use a piston with a pin location higher, it's when the piston moves back down the bore that the stroker makes more cubic inches by going further down the bore. Therefore you are not putting the top of the piston any closer to the valve, only the camshaft will do that. Dual springs are for extreme applications, they require more power to push the valve down because of the higher spring pressure, you don't want to waste any more power than necessary on the springs, only use enough spring for the cam you are running.

Yeah, that's true. Otherwise the top of the piston would go past the surface of the block. I wasn't thinking clearly. It's been an interesting day here at work... Thanks for correcting me.

 

[tumtum411]

Get dual springs and retainers so you can at least rev

 

[BoredDSM]

Not sure of how much power you plan on building in the long run but the HD Wiseco's are way overkill as mentioned and they are heavier. I'm not a fan of H-beam rods either, except in extreme applications. For a rock solid 400-500 horsepower street motor I feel the stock rods or a I-beam type rod is superior (I believe it was Scat that makes an I beam rod for 4g63's), due to the fact that for a street motor a lighter reciprocating mass is better, if you use lightweight forged pistons in conjuction with a stock reworked rod (shotpeened or side beams polished with ARP bolts and balanced) the motor will rev faster, in turn acting like a motor with more power. Since you have lightened the amount of mass the rod is throwing around it gives the rod the ability to handle more rpm and power! I try to nail this into peoples head when building street motors, as there are better places to spend money. You mentioned springs and again somebody mentioned you would have to upgrade if you go with a set of 280's which is correct. I would go with a set of 272's and take advantage of the low end torque your motor will make (a real street stomper) and use some lighter weight beehive style springs from and Evo motor, they seem to be a real bargain and drop in replacement.

H-beams are good for 500-650hp applications. Manley makes the lightest H-beam and they are just as strong as any other h-beam. I-beams are straight up overkill for your power goals. I-beams are a step above h-beams and are meant for 800+ horsepower. If you wanna go with a light rod go with an aluminum. I-beams also cost a fortune and it is crower who makes the I-beam for the 4g63. Scat only produces h-beams. 280's on a 2.4 stroker behave more like 272's on a 2.0.

 

[jlr2196]

Depending on the manufacturer of the rod some have a stronger I-beam design while others build a stronger H-beam. Consider this though, your stock rods are of I-beam design, does that mean they're stronger than an Eagle H-beam? In short I'm just saying that a stock rod is lighter than an Eagle H-beam and with proper rod prep will handle 500 horsepower for half the money. I realize 280's behave like 272's on a stroker and that is exactly my point, they will make more usable power on the street. As far as dual springs reving to the moon the last time I checked a stroker was for more power down low so you didn't have to rev it like a 2.0 which equals more dependablilty.