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2.3 or 2.0

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Gsturbo88

Probationary Member
19
0
Nov 21, 2005
Yuma, Arizona
i wanted to know to go with the 2.3 stroker kit but i heard they not that realiable yet or stick with my 7 bolt 2.0 and just rebuild it thanx

Jesse
 
There is nothing sacraficing reliability when going with a 2.3 as long as whoever is building it takes into consideration the certain clearances that need to be made (i.e. the lower parts of the cylinder walls need to be shaved a bit .60 worth of rod clearance). Other than that as long as you dont try and rev it to the moon there will be no issues whatsoever. General rule of thumb is 8-8500 max reliably. :thumb:


Joe
 
I would go with the stroker, but if you decide to go with the 2.0 i would find a 6 bolt engine and build that.
 
Dude...he's from SBR...i think he knows what he's talkin about...and i would assume .60MM

LOL Don't assume just cause he works for SBR that he knows... In this case, yes Joe's pretty knowledgeable. But I won't start a SBR bashing thread.

OP- Both can be built to be reliable as the 7 bolt 2.0 when rebuilt is very unlikely to walk. Strokers do need to be built by a good builder though as the rotating assembly balance is more crucial with a stroker.

It really comes down to whether you want revs/high hp or spool/lowend torque.
 
well im thinking of going over 2.3 and there selling a full kit for 1k200 at slowboy racing not bad but any thing in particular i have to buy instead of just the stroker kit???
 
Don't let people talk you out of a stroker because of reliability. Any engine can take a crap on you. Choose a good engine builder and you'll be fine with either choice. The good engine builders aren't always cheap though. We have some good ones listed on our Vendors page.

It comes down to personal preference. Do you like high revving or more low end torque and lower revs?
 
whatever you deside to do, stroke it or not, do your research on a good machine shop to do your work. becasue no matter if you buy cheap junk internals or expensive forged internals if you machine work isnt done right your engine will crap on you real quick. then with the stroker or non stroker questioin it really depends on the other supporting mods and your budget you plan on with this project, becasue if your strokeing your engine and thats all your doing and keeping everything else stock you will not really notice that great of a increase in power.
 
ohh well got to look for a good place so they will bore out by block right and my plans is 350-400 hp long way but it going to happen
 
You have to shave the bottom of the cylinder walls for clearance? I thought that the only clearance problem was the main caps? LOL, good think i haven't put my engine together yet... Common SBR Joe your supposed to keep me up on these things LOL :thumb:...
 
well my parts are dsm link 750 injectors walbro fuel pump and intake and well my dsm gave up around 100k and well i needed to rebuild and wanted to go with the 2.3 its pretty famous
 
You have to shave the bottom of the cylinder walls for clearance? I thought that the only clearance problem was the main caps? LOL, good think i haven't put my engine together yet... Common SBR Joe your supposed to keep me up on these things LOL :thumb:...


Sorry man! I thought you knew ### you didnt ask. You know now :thumb:



Joe
 
What your really need to consider is where do you want the power?

A 2.0 or 2.1 or a 2.4 is great for power from 5K to 10-11K.

A 2.3 is better for a street car in the 3500-8500K range.

A 2.4 can make power from 5k to 10-11k? Yeah, not likely.....To the OP, both are great choices for different reasons. A 2.3 will not have the high rev capabilities that the 2.0 will have, but the 2.3 can spool a bigger turbo quicker due to the increased displacement. Also, you will get increased torque due to the rotating assembly being oversquare. There's more leverage pushing down on the crank. A lot of the stroker guys say that they absolutely love it for the street. The 2.0 guys on the other hand, still love their motors, because spool is just a downshift away. I would assume more tranny problems come from high-rpm shifting though. Keep searching, researching, and asking questions, because building any motor is a big step that requires a lot of thought. You'll be happy with either one though, so good luck :thumb:
 
I also forgot to mention that the oil squirters may need tweaked a bit do the skirt doenst hit them. Since the pin location is moved up 6mm it drops the piston in the bore a bit, and usually will just slightly hit the oil squirters. Theres no set in stone method of where and how much they need tweaked, it needs to be decided when the engine is assembled and by putting each cylinder at BDC and making any necessary adjustments.


Joe
 
I'm a little confused which means i have a newb question? I'm going .020 over I still have to go bigger on the bottom? So i do the entire bottom? or just where the rod would hit? And if i do the whole ares and the piston is coming down far enough to hit the oil squirters wouldn't that give the pistons room to wable well not wable, but if you go up to high the rings wont properly seal so how far do you go? It seems like it would but knowing how i think im probably wrong about everything i asked? :confused:
 
I'm a little confused which means i have a newb question? I'm going .020 over I still have to go bigger on the bottom? So i do the entire bottom? or just where the rod would hit? And if i do the whole ares and the piston is coming down far enough to hit the oil squirters wouldn't that give the pistons room to wable well not wable, but if you go up to high the rings wont properly seal so how far do you go? It seems like it would but knowing how i think im probably wrong about everything i asked? :confused:

No you will just do the very bottom the the cylinder where the rod comes close, you will understand better onece you have teh engine assembled and you will see where im talking about. There wont be any problems with the piston "wobbling" because its such a small area, and its below where the pitson actually makes contact with the cylinder wall.:thumb:


Joe
 
Then i would have to take the rotating assembly out again to fix it? how much of the bottom of the cylinder do i do? i mean how far up the cylinder? like half a inch of the very bottom or something?
 
Like Joe said, when you have the rotating assembly in the block you'll see what needs to be done. It's a lot simpler then it sounds.

To the OP: I vote for stroker and an 18g or larger turbo with your setup so far.
 
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