The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

1st twin scroll 20g on DSM !!! (EVO 10 turbo)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

94awdcoupe

15+ Year Contributor
1,414
203
Nov 6, 2004
tampa, Florida
I believe I am the first to convert EVO 10 for use on my EVO 1. The results are amazing. Here is quick over view.

I spent an enormous amount of time mounting a 3071 . Never really happy with the low end response I had been kicking myself that I wish I had made a custom manifold to mount a factory evo8/9 turbo. Then when the evo X came out with standard rotation twin scroll turbo I got excited. I new one would eventually end up on my car. You can mount evo8/9 turbo without too much trouble but the PS and alt has to go since the turbo inlet would sit right there in their place. That conversion was done once and car the made 355hp on pump gas and when low 11,s at 120 to back it up. Of course for me PS and A/C are a must so a seriously custom exhaust manifold and 02 would have been needed to make evo8/9 turbo work. The evo X turbo on the other hand is configured correctly for a much smoother conversion for DSM use. its still a big project but a fun one. original turbo is a 15g. upgraded turbo is a 20g/TD06L2 (e-bay-KAMAK) I will let pics do he talking. all in all spent a full work week getting it done but the spool and power is amazing. I am very pleased. I have the ultimate street turbo on this car. 4th gear stab at 2500 starts pulling hard at 3200. full 2.0 bar at 3700rpm. The spool figures dont tell the whole story the torque from 2500-3500 is making the 2.0 feel almost like a 2.3. Its that good.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I wish my roomate didn't wrap his arounda pole, his had 40,000km on it and was clean as hell. Now it is sitting on our driveway about 2 feet shorter in the front waiting to get parted out. Seeing your beast makes me sad.
 
Hi there,
A little bit off topic I know but is that a 'cyclone' type variable length intake manifold that you're running?

The only reason I'm asking is I've got one ready to go on my Evo 3 and I was wondering if you have any form of control on when it opens the 2nd set of runners or is it just fed direct from boost pressure to the actuator as it appears in the photo.

Many thanks for any help

Andy

here are some detail pictures of t25 actuator. It starts to open at 14psi and flappers are full open at 24psi. I like simplicity. The way the factory controls the flappers is great. just too complicated for my tastes. you have to run 24+ psi for this to work well. works fantastic on my 35r car as well.

both my cars have 7 bolt heads, so ports dont match to cyclone 1g port size.. both manifolds are filled with epoxy and ported to make transistion smooth
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Was that yellow colt yours too? That's one nasty car....

I would love to own your blue evo, want to sell it?

If not, know anyone selling one?
 
here are some detail pictures of t25 actuator. It starts to open at 14psi and flappers are full open at 24psi. I like simplicity. The way the factory controls the flappers is great. just too complicated for my tastes. you have to run 24+ psi for this to work well. works fantastic on my 35r car as well.
Many thanks for that. I have a large fully ported head that can match up to the cyclone intake so I'm OK with that part :thumb:

In terms of control, I was thinking of re-writing my standard ECU boost control code to be able to control the actuator via a solenoid. That way I can get it to open using a 2D rpm vs boost type map which should allow a finer level of control.

I don't suppose you have a dyno run from before/after fitting it do you? Or even better, a dyno run with the extra runners in both the fully open and fully closed position. It would be good to see roughly what sort of gains I might see in the midrange when running it.

Many thanks

Andy
 
here are some detail pictures of t25 actuator. It starts to open at 14psi and flappers are full open at 24psi. I like simplicity. The way the factory controls the flappers is great. just too complicated for my tastes. you have to run 24+ psi for this to work well. works fantastic on my 35r car as well.

both my cars have 7 bolt heads, so ports dont match to cyclone 1g port size.. both manifolds are filled with epoxy and ported to make transistion smooth
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
]

i love your car :) uhh so the 1 on the left is a variable length cyclone intake ??? what is the one on the right ?? also does anyone know where to get a evo 1-3 ? i really need it to be usa legal .they are my dream cars and i hate to say it but i would sell or partout my dsm for one :(
 
Many thanks for that. I have a large fully ported head that can match up to the cyclone intake so I'm OK with that part :thumb:

In terms of control, I was thinking of re-writing my standard ECU boost control code to be able to control the actuator via a solenoid. That way I can get it to open using a 2D rpm vs boost type map which should allow a finer level of control.

I don't suppose you have a dyno run from before/after fitting it do you? Or even better, a dyno run with the extra runners in both the fully open and fully closed position. It would be good to see roughly what sort of gains I might see in the midrange when running it.

Many thanks

Andy

I dont have any before and after dyno runs. Way back when I first started using them I attempted holding flapper closed on dyno. using a screwdriver to hold flapper and it slipped off at 3500rpm. at 21psi on 57trim turbo (about 400whp) the torque increase was 35ft/lbs between open and closed at 3500rpm. I will be doing back to back on my car comparing the evo 3 manifold (on right) to cyclone. With this twin scroll 20g I am getting mounts of early torque. I want to see if evo 3 mani gives more desirable powerband since I have some torque to sacrifice. the evo 3 manifold is shaved. also made custom coil mount so I can use factory 2g wires. factory 3 coil packs need a right angle at coil.
 
i love your car :) uhh so the 1 on the left is a variable length cyclone intake ??? what is the one on the right ?? also does anyone know where to get a evo 1-3 ? i really need it to be usa legal .they are my dream cars and i hate to say it but i would sell or partout my dsm for one :(

best way to get one is find one here already. I estimate there are 20-40 in the states. they do pop up for sale from time to time. they go for 8000-16000 from what I have seen. canada would be second best place to look. you can drive them across the boarder.
 
Was that yellow colt yours too? That's one nasty car....

I would love to own your blue evo, want to sell it?

If not, know anyone selling one?

yes yellow car is mine as well. still a beast. I will be be taking this blue car with me to my grave. best driving car on the planet for my needs.
 
canada would be second best place to look. you can drive them across the boarder.

Can you elaborate on this some? Don't you have to meet standards at the border if you intend on keeping the car?
I have no emmisions for cars 94 and older by me:D, how would this come into play?
I would love to get my hands on an early evo:p
 
best way to get one is find one here already. I estimate there are 20-40 in the states. they do pop up for sale from time to time. they go for 8000-16000 from what I have seen. canada would be second best place to look. you can drive them across the boarder.

well sheet . im willing to pay that. i want one soo bad ..isnt your front clip etc suppose to be round style instead of square ? like it should look like a mirage ?
 
Can you elaborate on this some? Don't you have to meet standards at the border if you intend on keeping the car?
I have no emmisions for cars 94 and older by me:D, how would this come into play?
I would love to get my hands on an early evo:p

in america if you import a car customs will make you cut car in half or send it back. canada allows imports as long as they are 15 years old. if I were buying from canada I would have canadian owner drive it accross boarder. Then drive home from there. We dont have emissions in florida. theye are trying to bring them back. hopefully it wont be retroactive on older cars. every state is different

the early evo are worth the effort of ownership. In my opinion the drive is more enjoyable than these later model evos. and they just rip with very little power. 400whp will beat 650whp mustang.
 
well sheet . im willing to pay that. i want one soo bad ..isnt your front clip etc suppose to be round style instead of square ? like it should look like a mirage ?

body wise my evo 1 is stock. except for evo 3 wing..I have all the evo 3 parts to complete conversion but I like the look of evo 1/2 better.
 
if I were buying from canada I would have canadian owner drive it accross boarder. Then drive home from there. We dont have emissions in florida. theye are trying to bring them back. hopefully it wont be retroactive on older cars. every state is different

so then, how do you go about titling the car? It has a jdm vin?
 
so then, how do you go about titling the car? It has a jdm vin?

my ca was already in the states when I bought it. so I didnt do the title work. The second I bought was through canada. that was titled with JDM vin by a guy in orlando.
 
Kudos for the job, but not worth the effort. You could just buy those things ya know. Also if any one else is thinking of this think twice because welding cast iron is kinda like incest, yea you can do it but you shouldn't. Don't believe me fine... take these words of advice, Welding Cast Iron can make a preacher cuss.. Sooner or later that cast is going to crack.. I mean looks at the stock stuff, it cracks, imagine over time what a will happen to a weld. Cool project though.

Later Dr Turbo
 
Kudos for the job, but not worth the effort. You could just buy those things ya know. Also if any one else is thinking of this think twice because welding cast iron is kinda like incest, yea you can do it but you shouldn't. Don't believe me fine... take these words of advice, Welding Cast Iron can make a preacher cuss.. Sooner or later that cast is going to crack.. I mean looks at the stock stuff, it cracks, imagine over time what a will happen to a weld. Cool project though.

Later Dr Turbo

Obviously it was worth the effort to you, otherwise you would not be doing it. Buying things cost money, so I commend you for working with what you have and being creative with it. If it turns out to be too much trouble then you can always replace it with something else later. Any exhaust manifold will crack over time.

Congrats on the project and you have a beautiful Evo. If I were going to get one it I would have to go with an Evo1-3. Keep us posted.
 
Obviously it was worth the effort to you, otherwise you would not be doing it. Buying things cost money, so I commend you for working with what you have and being creative with it. If it turns out to be too much trouble then you can always replace it with something else later. Any exhaust manifold will crack over time.

Congrats on the project and you have a beautiful Evo. If I were going to get one it I would have to go with an Evo1-3. Keep us posted.

He still had to buy things, Full evo X mani, turbo, O2, a welder or pay someone else to weld it, that can't be cheap how many evo Xs have parts laying around?

FP mani $200, 18g $700, wow $900 not exactly breaking the bank.

Later Dr Turbo
 
The project cost 500 for used X turbo. And another 500 for kamak 20g. I can sell the stock x turbo for 200. so for 800 bucks and my time I am very happy. I dont think the weld will be a problem. They are too big and too close to cylinder head that keeps it cool. plan to have it ceramic coated when engine comes out for paint job. that will further reduce stress on it. Sure you could pay someone to make all the parts custom. Having a manifold alone made would cost 1000.

Biggest fault with these "cast weld will break" comments is they come from welding cast iron which is very weak and very brittle and actually very difficult to weld. These manifolds are cast steal (maybe even a bit of stainless). BIG difference. These new castings are quite amazing really. You can take a 14b turbo off car after 2000 miles and it will have crack on exhaust housing. But I have seen evo 3 16g (superior casting) with 100k miles and no cracks on exhaust housing. I have a custom 25g turbo that has a schedule 40 pipe welded to bottom of two runners. It supports heavy waste gate and cherry red boost performance. 5000 miles on that kit and weld looks like the day it was made.
 
Cool, check back in 10K more miles and let us know how things held up.

The project cost 500 for used X turbo. And another 500 for kamak 20g. I can sell the stock x turbo for 200. so for 800 bucks and my time I am very happy. I dont think the weld will be a problem. They are too big and too close to cylinder head that keeps it cool. plan to have it ceramic coated when engine comes out for paint job. that will further reduce stress on it. Sure you could pay someone to make all the parts custom. Having a manifold alone made would cost 1000.

Biggest fault with these "cast weld will break" comments is they come from welding cast iron which is very weak and very brittle and actually very difficult to weld. These manifolds are cast steal (maybe even a bit of stainless). BIG difference. These new castings are quite amazing really. You can take a 14b turbo off car after 2000 miles and it will have crack on exhaust housing. But I have seen evo 3 16g (superior casting) with 100k miles and no cracks on exhaust housing. I have a custom 25g turbo that has a schedule 40 pipe welded to bottom of two runners. It supports heavy waste gate and cherry red boost performance. 5000 miles on that kit and weld looks like the day it was made.
 
yes yellow car is mine as well. still a beast. I will be be taking this blue car with me to my grave. best driving car on the planet for my needs.

Lucky man :)

I'm actually working on moving down to Florida for Grad school. I wouldn't mind selling my current 2 cars and getting something jdm but id be paranoid about it getting stolen.

Do you daily drive that thing or do you have something else?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top