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1Gb Talon Rust Revival

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
Redoing the rear brake lines was a lot easier and less troublesome than I originally thought.
I should have mentioned this before, but when starting a big brake job, here's a little trick to keep all your brake fluid from running out all over the place on you.
jackhandleonbrake.jpg

Anyway, got the lines run. I ran them the same route as the OEM lines. The only somewhat complicated parts were where the lines make a lot of bends to come up over the frame and into the wheel well, but still wasn't too bad with Nicopp line. All bends were done by hand. I used all steel connections and stainless steel unions. Brass would have been fine I'm sure, but I wanted steel just to make extra sure.

brakeunions1.jpg

brakeunions2.jpg

newbrakelines1.jpg

This flaring tool is great. Easy to make flares with the lines on the car.
flaringline.jpg

Can't forget the gravel guard in the wheel wells...
driversidenewbrakeliones.jpg
passsidebrakeline.jpg

I also bought an oil catch can off Amz...this one is made very well, so I got it mounted where I want it too...I'll run the lines another time.
catchcan.jpg
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
After last week I still wasn't thrilled with the overall brake pedal feel. Still was mushy and went way too far. I picked up this OEM 3g brake master cylinder to try to remedy the problem. They don't make these anymore either, so I think this is one of the last from RTM.

new3gbraemaster.jpg

The bore is bigger in these so it pushes more fluid and as you can see the brake fluid canister sits on top. This allows for more room in the engine bay as it frees up the stuff on the firewall.
First thing was removing the old one. I'm still using the stock brake booster. I'll upgrade it later to the 3g one if I feel I need to. I'm also replacing the two hard lines from the brake master to the proportioning valve with -3an stainless lines.
oldbrakemaster.jpg

old vs new
brakemastersoldnew.jpg

New connections on the proportioning valve
newbrakemasterconnectors1111.jpg
newbrakemasterconnectors1.jpg

Bench bleeding the BMC before install.
benchbleed.jpg

I ran the lines approx where the stock ones went, under the brake booster but had to loop them up and over first.
newbrakemasterlines.jpg
bmcdelete.jpg


Next up I wanted to do a little more with my PCV system so i finished the lines on my oil catch can.
oilcatchcan222.jpg

and put an inline valve on the PCV to IM line. It doesn't look pretty, but I'll figure out something better later. I'll prob just get another catch can in the future.
valave111.jpg
valave222.jpg
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
Today was just some little things. I had a feeling the passenger side door switch would be in the same condition as the driver's side, so I was putting it off, but figured I'd better check it off the list today...I was right. More rust underneath the boot.
beforedoorswitch3.jpg

and some wire-brushing later...I then did the usual. Primer, paint, clear.
beforedoorswitch2.jpg

Also got the wheels back on since I'm all done with the brakes. I have a friend fabricating some new brackets to hold the fuel/brake lines to the frame as the stock ones I reconditioned are a bit "weak" from all the years of use. If he makes some stronger ones I'll be putting those on instead, so until then I'll keep the car up on jackstands.
wheelsbackon.jpg
tireflushing.jpg

How the wheels sit now...when I get it on the ground and they tuck a little, I think they'll be perfect.
Next up was my strut tower bar. I had actually completely forgotten about it as it's been underneath my workbench this whole time. This thing started off red, then I painted it copper...that won't do with this current setup so I decided to repaint it again.
Before paint:
strtbarbefore.jpg

Was kinda thinking I'd paint it gold like the fuel filter and CBV, but I think it would have been a little too extra. so I settled on flat black for the bar and gloss black for the end braces.
blackbar2.jpg
blackend1.jpg

The bolts holding it all together were still in pretty good shape, but the nuts were a bit rusty, so I cleaned the threads and added new nuts.
rethreadstrutbar.jpg
newhardwarestrutbrace.jpg

A quick mock-up to see what it looks like in the bay. I'll install it next week after it's had a lot of time to cure. I think it looks pretty damn good.
blackbar1.jpg
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
Came across some old pics I forgot I had when my engine blew (skipped a tooth on the timing belt) and I had to rebuild it. This was back around 2010 or so. It's always a good idea to see where you started and how far you've come. Keeps you motivated.

You can see where the valves punched holes in three of my pistons.
IMG_0997.jpg

This is what was left of my spark plugs
IMG_0994.jpg

Out the original engine/tranny comes
IMAG0180.jpg

I rebuilt my current motor with Eagle rods and Mahle pistons
IMAG0255.jpg

Getting all my new shiny bits where they belong...
IMAG0346.jpg
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
This weekend I'm just dialing in all the small stuff you have to take care of before starting and tuning. First thing I wanted to do today was lengthen the wiring for my brake master cylinder plug since the 3g bmc is farther away. If you guys don't have the Sheridan Engineering plug kit for our cars you're missing out. It's been damn handy when a plug or wire snaps.

sheridankit.jpg
barewires1.jpg
newplug1.jpg
pluginstalled1.jpg
newwiresconnection1.jpg

I can't find my damn wire loom, so I guess I'll have to order more and get this all buttoned up later.
Replaced my battery terminals with new brass ones as well. My old ones were getting a bit corroded.
newbattterminal.jpg

buttoned up the front brake lines. Used the same method I used for the rears. I used stainless zip ties to secure it to the strut.
brakelineholder1.jpg

Bolted down the strut brace as well. This is how close it turned out to be since moving the brake master cylinder.
closebar11.jpg

Did a bunch of other random stuff I didn't want to bore you guys with like re-bleeding the brakes, checking all fittings for leaks, bled the clutch and checked and re-checked for clearance issues with the new brake setup. So far so good.
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
First thing I NEEDED to do today was clean up my work area. It's been getting out of hand and I work much better in a clean environment. So much rust dust everywhere. Time to go.
cleanworkbench.jpg

Still just doing minor things today that need to get done...as I was in the back tying some things up underneath I noticed the trunk area was pretty grimy. I cleaned it up a bit and replaced the hardware (it was rusty of course) on these things...I think they are more or less trunk "stops" that prevent our trunks from banging too hard on close. Either way, got them cleaned up.
trunkstop1.jpg
trunkstop2.jpg


I also treated the rubber weatherstripping around the hatch. Mine's still in pretty good shape. You can see the freshly treated area on the right and how bad it was on the left. This will rehydrate it and keep it nice and pliable so it hopefully doesn't crack in the future.
rubbertreatmentstrunk.jpg


I moved back up to the front and cleaned up some stuff and noticed my cowl was rusting a bit so out it came along with the cowl covers and wiper arms. I'll give them all a new coat of paint.
partstoprep111.jpg
rustycowl.jpg

First prep, then primer and I went with a flat black coated with clear. It made for a pretty cool look IMO.
cowelprepped.jpg
cowelprimer.jpg
cowelblack1.jpg


Cleaned up the area under the cowl really well too.
undercowl1.jpg
 
Last edited:

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
169
109
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
First thing I NEEDED to do today was clean up my work area. It's been getting out of hand and I work much better in a clean environment. So much rust dust everywhere. Time to go.
View attachment 668214
Still just doing minor things today that need to get done...as I was in the back tying some things up underneath I noticed the trunk area was pretty grimy. I cleaned it up a bit and replaced the hardware (it was rusty of course) on these things...I think they are more or less trunk "stops" that prevent our trunks from banging too hard on close. Either way, got them cleaned up.
View attachment 668221View attachment 668222

I also treated the rubber weatherstripping around the hatch. Mine's still in pretty good shape. You can see the freshly treated area on the right and how bad it was on the left. This will rehydrate it and keep it nice and pliable so it hopefully doesn't crack in the future.
View attachment 668219

I moved back up to the front and cleaned up some stuff and noticed my cowl was rusting a bit so out it came along with the cowl covers and wiper arms. I'll give them all a new coat of paint.
View attachment 668218View attachment 668220
First prep, then primer and I went with a flat black coated with clear. It made for a pretty cool look IMO.
View attachment 668216View attachment 668217View attachment 668215

Cleaned up the area under the cowl really well too.
View attachment 668223
Just pulled those this weekend too..along with hood motor and tranny. Looking good keep it up!
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
Continuing on this weekend. I wanted to get the Xfer case and tranny fluid changed. It wasn't old, but I can't remember what I put in it way back when so I wanted to make sure it was the right stuff per Jack's Transmission Oil recommendations, Since they rebuilt my tranny, Xfer case and rear diff. So, Redline lightweight shiockproof in the Xfer Case and Motul 75w90 in the tranny.
xfercasefluidx.jpg
tannyfluidx.jpg

After that I finished up the brake master sensor plug by covering it with wire loom.
brakeloomed.jpg

I began prepping the wiper arms too, since I have them off with the cowl. I painted them about 10-15yrs ago and some rust was starting to show through the paint a bit, so first thing I did was remove the old paint with paint stripper. I then sand blasted them for a nice smooth finish for primer, then paint with a satin black and clear. Firgured I'd better do the same to the rear radio mast ( I don't have an after pic of this one)
wiperamrspaintremoval.jpg
wiperamrsprepped.jpg
wiperamrprimed.jpg
wiperamrpainted.jpg
antennabefore.jpg

The next thing I did was totally random...My driver's side rear "winglet" has always been loose since I bought the car, meaning one of the clips was broken. I wanted to get in there and fix it. Little did I know, the clip is built into the wing itself. Anybody have a workaround for this issue? What I did was cut the end of a similar clip I had lying around and epoxied it to the end of this broken one. It isn't pretty, but it seemed to work. There's gotta be a better solution though...anybody know what it is?
wingclipbroken.jpg


Anyway, while I had the winglet off, I decided this bracket need a refurbish while I was in there. Looks pretty gross, so I knew I could do better.
wingbracketbefore.jpg

first was the usual...clean it, sandblast it, prime it, paint it...
wingbracketprepped.jpg
wingbracketprimed.jpg
wingbracetdone.jpg


I repainted the screws for the cover plate and buttoned her back up
screwspaintedxxx.jpg
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
Not much time today, but wanted to take a care of a few things. One of which was getting rid of the fuel pressure solenoid. I kept it as a "just in case" kinda thing, but when I was looking around in my ECMLink settings, I discovered I didn't even have the FPS activated...so out she comes.
What I'm getting rid of: Also frees up more room on the firewall.
fpsbefore.jpg

Much cleaner setup near the FPR.
afterfpsremoval.jpg

I also wanted to finish up the wipers/cowl/vents I was working on last week. I used a 2K clear on all of those pieces and let it cure all week. This week I wanted to freshen up those plastic vent covers by the cowl. I used adhesion promotor and Trim Black to make them dark again. As you can see they are looking a bit weathered and gray.
trimblackspray.jpg
trimbefore.jpg

and after...the pic doesn't do it justice. They are much blacker and newer looking than before.
trimafter.jpg

I also decided I want to start tearing into the interior. I'm going to remove everything and either replace or clean the carpet really well, install sound deadener and completely upgrade the audio. I have everything on order, so I'll be biting into that next weekend.
 

Silverspyder

Proven Member
212
279
Nov 18, 2002
Burnsville, Minnesota
Ripped out the interior today to prepare for some stuff coming this week.

frontinteriorgone.jpg
rearinteriorgone1.jpg
interiorgone2.jpg

Pleasantly surprised that the floor pan wasn't rotted and rusted out. Would have made more sense considering the rest of this build.
Carpet is in pretty good shape. I think I'll just scrub the hell out of it and see how it looks.
carpetout1.jpg

Previous owner used some kind of caulking or something to try and fix the door panels where the plastic rivets broke. More of a pain in the ass for me though. This shit was everywhere,
caulkinterior1.jpg
 
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