pointblank9957
10+ Year Contributor
- 284
- 10
- Jul 12, 2012
-
Sheboygan,
Wisconsin
Ok well I'm putting a 1g NT header on my 2g Spyder GS, I will be documenting the work needed to do this.
Please support the thread so others can benefit from the information.
Needed:
Mods: 1G NT Header, Collector, and Downpipe, Test Pipe
Equipment: TIG Welder (if using t304), hack saw or other means if cutting tubing, patience, 12mm wrench AND socket/rachet w/ 2" extension, 14mm wrench, 16mm impact socket and impact gun (header-collector flange nuts are normally rusted pretty bad)
Used: DNAMotoring Header/Collector/Downpipe, Test Pipe (resonator)
The reason you need a 1G NT Header is simple: our 4G64's have the same flange/bolt pattern as a 4G63, BUT most headers/manifolds out there are for turbo models, which are nothing alike the NT Header, this is why you need the 4G63 Header from a 1G. 1G's were the only generation with a non turbo 4G63, 2G's are 420A.
Now, we have the same engine as the 3G, but they will NOT work because on the left side of our flange, the bottom corner is about 1/4" farther than the right side. I realized this when the gasket would only go on one way and not reversed.
Ok now for starters, I tried lining up the header to the OEM 2G header, the 1G is quite a bit longer. You will not need your Catalytic Converter, because it wont fit anyway UNLESS you cut a chunk out of where your Catback/OEM Exhaust connects to the Cat, and weld your flange back on farther back so the Cat will fit. This is the only way to keep your Cat, I'm using a Resonator Test Pipe instead.
Another note is you can't just replace the Header, mine came as slightly bigger tubing. Because of that, the header-collector flange is about 1/2" wider than the OEM, You'll need to replan the Collector and Downpipe too.
1/3/13: Removed the OEM Header. Mocked up the whole set and figured out a plan. Put the Header and O2 Sensor on, running open headers til tomorrow. As a sidenote, your header may seem like it doesn't want to go on, one of the studs may be slightly too far out and just barely touches, don't worry about this. Your studs won't bend, its just a very tight fit, I cranked down the 12mm nuts first and it slowly pulled the header tight to the block, followed by the 14mm nuts. I reafed on them since header nuts are known to loosen after being broken loose and put back on.
Advice: take off the top 4 nuts with the 12mm and ratchet, bottom center 3 with the 12mm wrench since you can only use a ratchet on the bottom 2nd to left on the OEM header, and then the bottom left with 14mm and ratchet, and the bottom right with the 14mm wrench since the PS Pump is in the way. There will be a double layered gasket between the header and block, make sure you take it off! Don't want any leaks!
1/4/13: Finished! Had to cut 1 foot out of the catback, removing the 2nd O2 sensor, and welding the flange back on the end. Realistically it took me around 3 hours to do this. I didn't have a Cat to begin with to it took a grear deal less effort for this mod.
Will post pics later!
Please support the thread so others can benefit from the information.
Needed:
Mods: 1G NT Header, Collector, and Downpipe, Test Pipe
Equipment: TIG Welder (if using t304), hack saw or other means if cutting tubing, patience, 12mm wrench AND socket/rachet w/ 2" extension, 14mm wrench, 16mm impact socket and impact gun (header-collector flange nuts are normally rusted pretty bad)
Used: DNAMotoring Header/Collector/Downpipe, Test Pipe (resonator)
The reason you need a 1G NT Header is simple: our 4G64's have the same flange/bolt pattern as a 4G63, BUT most headers/manifolds out there are for turbo models, which are nothing alike the NT Header, this is why you need the 4G63 Header from a 1G. 1G's were the only generation with a non turbo 4G63, 2G's are 420A.
Now, we have the same engine as the 3G, but they will NOT work because on the left side of our flange, the bottom corner is about 1/4" farther than the right side. I realized this when the gasket would only go on one way and not reversed.
Ok now for starters, I tried lining up the header to the OEM 2G header, the 1G is quite a bit longer. You will not need your Catalytic Converter, because it wont fit anyway UNLESS you cut a chunk out of where your Catback/OEM Exhaust connects to the Cat, and weld your flange back on farther back so the Cat will fit. This is the only way to keep your Cat, I'm using a Resonator Test Pipe instead.
Another note is you can't just replace the Header, mine came as slightly bigger tubing. Because of that, the header-collector flange is about 1/2" wider than the OEM, You'll need to replan the Collector and Downpipe too.
1/3/13: Removed the OEM Header. Mocked up the whole set and figured out a plan. Put the Header and O2 Sensor on, running open headers til tomorrow. As a sidenote, your header may seem like it doesn't want to go on, one of the studs may be slightly too far out and just barely touches, don't worry about this. Your studs won't bend, its just a very tight fit, I cranked down the 12mm nuts first and it slowly pulled the header tight to the block, followed by the 14mm nuts. I reafed on them since header nuts are known to loosen after being broken loose and put back on.
Advice: take off the top 4 nuts with the 12mm and ratchet, bottom center 3 with the 12mm wrench since you can only use a ratchet on the bottom 2nd to left on the OEM header, and then the bottom left with 14mm and ratchet, and the bottom right with the 14mm wrench since the PS Pump is in the way. There will be a double layered gasket between the header and block, make sure you take it off! Don't want any leaks!
1/4/13: Finished! Had to cut 1 foot out of the catback, removing the 2nd O2 sensor, and welding the flange back on the end. Realistically it took me around 3 hours to do this. I didn't have a Cat to begin with to it took a grear deal less effort for this mod.
Will post pics later!
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Last edited:
