1G 1G clutch pedal and lever connection

[Jyrka77]

Hi! I read numerous threads on clutch pedal problems, but didn't find an answer, so...

1G clutch does not disengange. Clutch pedal has no pressure and moves freely to the floor. Master cylinder is full of liquid, no signs of leakage.
Checked the pedal assembly under the dash.
I noticed that when I press the clutch pedal with hand, then the clutch lever and pushrod move just a bit, but then stop and go back to original position, all while I press the pedal all the way to the floor.

I assume that the lever should be rigidly fixed to the pedal, so this behavior is not normal? So the connection between pedal axle and lever is broken/worn? (see the snapshot from the manual)

Thanks
Jörgen

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[pauleyman]

you would be correct. that part number 17 has a hole machined in it with two flat sides. IT bols to the clutch pedal which has a corresponding round part with two flats milled off. They should not move independently of one another. It is this part that gets welded in some peoples cars. The problem would be install as you can see it goes through the brake pedal and teh bushings are plastic. This was all solved years ago with aftermarket brass/bronze bushings, welding etc. This is the reason I didn't run stiff clutches on a 1g.

 

[XC92]

Yep, you'll need to take everything out and apart, see what's going on, order the right parts and then put it back together. And as pauleyman said many people weld it for insurance. I had similar (but not quite as bad) disengagement issues myself that almost certainly trashed my clutch and trans.

I ended up fixing the trans myself (major job, hopefully you haven't done enough damage to yours to need to fix or replace it and definitely don't drive your car until you fix this slop issues) and replaced the clutch, and temporarily fixed the disengagement issue by tightening the nut that attaches the lever to the shaft.

But to play it safe I'm going to take it apart myself later this year and rebuild it with new parts that I already have, bushings (the important one brass), lever, etc. You MIGHT be able to temporarily fix this by tightening that nut, but it sounds like your lever is beyond the point where that would work and will probably need a new one.

I got my parts from Amayama. Takes a while but they have most parts in stock and their prices are decent. You can also try US dealers, perhaps even a local one near you. But one way or another you need to fix this, and do it right.

 

[Jyrka77]

Thanks, guys! So now I know where the problem lies: I was suspecting failed MC or SC, or a seized clutch, as the car had been standing in the garage over the winter.

@XC92 - you mentioned that you tightened the nut that keep the lever on the pedal. Did you manage to do that while the pedal assembly was still on the car? That nut looked totally inaccessible to me... any hints how to do it?

As you said, I doubt that it helps me in the long run, it's worn too much. But right now I just need to be able drive the car in and out of the garage (to clean the garage), so a quick fix would be nice, before starting to take out and rebuild/replace the pedal assembly.

Taking the pedal assembly out looks like a frightening job, with removal of steering column etc. Any encouragement is welcome

As a side note: the pushrod has heavy corrosion (white-ish) on it, and when I removed the rubber boot from the MC under the dash, there is too some corrosion, but no liquid, and the MC is full too. What to make of it? Did it leak at some point and then stopped? OR it's not leaking right now, because there is no pressure, because of the worn pedal/lever issue?

Thanks
Jörgen

 

[Jyrka77]

Update:
1) found a way to tighen the lever nut. There is a hole in the bracket (nr 16) where a socket can be inserted to turn the nut. However, I fastened the nut as much as I could, but when pressing clutch pedal, the lever and pushrod still dont move and the pedal-lever connection still turns over.

2) found that slave cylinder is seized. When I opened the bleed valve on SC, the pedal and pushrod moved normally. Probably this is the reason why the pedal-lever connection turned over. So I'm gonna change the SC, but I guess the pedal assembly still needs rebuild or replacement?

Thanks!
Jörgen

 

[XC92]

Your situation sounds a lot like mine. Bad slave cylinder that leaked and would take any pressure, loose pedal assembly, and a master cylinder that worked but where there were signs of past leakage inside the area under the dash.

I dealt with it by replacing the slave with a new OEM, tightening that nut (as a temporary fix that's held up so far), and buying an OEM master repair kit that I haven't used yet but will when I take the whole assembly out to more permanently fix the pedal issue.

I also replaced the solid clutch line connected to the slave with a SS braided one, as well as replaced the OEM clutch fork with a harder aftermarket one, and put in a new release bearing, clutch and pressure plates, but I needed to do that anyway as the previous clutch had worn down completely. And rebuilt my trans to fix the damage that the pedal issue caused. While I was at it I also rebuilt the shifter.

So "all" that's left it taking out the pedal assembly and doing whatever needs to be done to make the fix permanent, and rebuild the master (or replace it if it's beyond rebuilding). I already have the parts and it's just a matter of doing it.

 

[pauleyman]

Update:
1) found a way to tighen the lever nut. There is a hole in the bracket (nr 16) where a socket can be inserted to turn the nut. However, I fastened the nut as much as I could, but when pressing clutch pedal, the lever and pushrod still dont move and the pedal-lever connection still turns over.

2) found that slave cylinder is seized. When I opened the bleed valve on SC, the pedal and pushrod moved normally. Probably this is the reason why the pedal-lever connection turned over. So I'm gonna change the SC, but I guess the pedal assembly still needs rebuild or replacement?

Thanks!
Jörgen

What do you mean slave was seized. Elaborate.

 

[Jyrka77]

What do you mean slave was seized. Elaborate.

I removed the slave cycinder from the clutch housing, so the SC pushrod wouldnt be connected with the clutch fork and could move out freely. But even then, when I pressed the clutch pedal, the SC piston didn't move and the pedal/lever/MC pushrod connection turned over. So there was some restriction downstream.

Then I opened the SC bleed nipple a bit, and pressed the clutch pedal again. Then, the pedal/lever/MC pushrod connection moved normally, and pressed liquid out of the SC bleed nipple. From this I make a conclusion that MC was fine and SC was seized.

 

[XC92]

I'd just take the SC apart at this point and see what's going on. I think there's an OEM rebuild kit for it that might be worth looking into if it's fixable, otherwise it sounds like you need a new slave. That's what I got when the original one developed a bad leak and wouldn't hold pressure.

Make sure to cap the hydraulic line that connects to the slave when you remove it so you don't drip fluid out.

 

[MacMarty15221]

Can anyone provide a source / citation for that OEM rebuild kit? Would be great for many of us to know.

(Googles briefly: maybe this?) https://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-slave-cylinder-repair-kit-2969a056

 

[Dericsh]

Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit-3/4″ Gold | JNZtuning.com

It seems like there’s different bore sizes (?) but I only see 3/4” on the JNZ site. Their OEM replacement says the bore size is 3/4”.

 

[XC92]

Here it is from RTM, for 1G AWD DSMs (the FWD version is discontinued but it might still be possible to find it somewhere, like Amayama):

RTM Racing :: MITSUBISHI / EAGLE :: DSM: 1g (1990-94) :: Drivetrain & Transmission :: Clutch :: Master, Slave Cylinders, Hydraulic Components :: OEM Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit: 1g DSM AWD

Make sure to wear decent nitrile gloves. Hydraulic fluid is pretty nasty stuff.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Slave cylinders are very simple to rebuild. I didn't even use a rebuild kit to fix mine after the piston came out accidentally before it got bolted up to the trans and it was operating that new twin disk just fine.

 

[XC92]

Slave cylinders are very simple to rebuild. I didn't even use a rebuild kit to fix mine after the piston came out accidentally before it got bolted up to the trans and it was operating that new twin disk just fine.

I tried to rebuild mine without a kit but the seals were just too far gone and the bore appeared to be too corroded to be worth a rebuild kit, and I was pressed for time so I got a new OEM slave, but each situation is different.

I did buy an OEM rebuild kit for the master that I haven't gotten around to installing yet but I hope to later this year when I pull the entire pedal assembly to fix that pedal slop issue. There appears to be some minor leaking under the dash but hopefully the kit will take care of that. The master isn't as close to the ground and elements and unshielded as the slave is, so I'm hoping that it's still in decent shape and doesn't need replacing.

 

[dwb]

Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit-3/4″ Gold | JNZtuning.com

It seems like there’s different bore sizes (?) but I only see 3/4” on the JNZ site. Their OEM replacement says the bore size is 3/4”.

I've seen a smaller bore SC and it came from a 1g NA (MD733228). You want the bigger one for turbo (MD733620).

I removed the slave cycinder from the clutch housing, so the SC pushrod wouldnt be connected with the clutch fork and could move out freely. But even then, when I pressed the clutch pedal, the SC piston didn't move and the pedal/lever/MC pushrod connection turned over. So there was some restriction downstream.

Then I opened the SC bleed nipple a bit, and pressed the clutch pedal again. Then, the pedal/lever/MC pushrod connection moved normally, and pressed liquid out of the SC bleed nipple. From this I make a conclusion that MC was fine and SC was seized.

I believe your issue is a severely worn clutch pedal assy. There's not enough meat left on part #17 combined with the clutch pedal to hold any amount of pressure. It's easy to push fluid through the line if it's not pushing another piston because there's no backpressure. Would be easy to verify by working the SC piston by hand.

 

[Mech Addict]

Sounds like the slave wouldn’t move and someone simply pushed the pedal until something else gave way. I’d say get yourself psyched up to take out the steering column, drivers seat, and get that pedal assembly out.
You probably will need the bronze bushing and welding to fix it at that point.
Or convert the car to automatic…