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1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Year
1993
Model/Trim
Eagle Talon TSi AWD

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
4,683
1,937
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
I went through this and even though my fork was in the middle, it had to be shimmed. Have a feeling it's something to do with the competition clutch forks because that's what I changed to also. Good news is you can shim it through the window BUT if the washer falls, you may or may not have to drop the trans depending on where the washer lands.
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I went through this and even though my fork was in the middle, it had to be shimmed. Have a feeling it's something to do with the competition clutch forks because that's what I changed to also. Good news is you can shim it through the window BUT if the washer falls, you may or may not have to drop the trans depending on where the washer lands.
I suppose that could be. Maybe the Comp Clutch forks are slightly different than OEM. Im still going to try and bleed it today to see if that works and if it doesnt then im assuming the pivot ball will need shimmed. Thats a big gamble whether to drop the trans or not though.. it seem like no matter what you do either way is going to be a pain
 

iugrad92turbo

Supporting Member
12,595
650
May 22, 2007
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Could be play in the pedal assembly i just replaced my bushings, worn out, and then i had it welded up, im still working on shifting, into gear. No luck yet.
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Could be play in the pedal assembly i just replaced my bushings, worn out, and then i had it welded up, im still working on shifting, into gear. No luck yet.
That could be also. But, the old clutch disengaged fine before I replaced it. Although im not sure I can reference that anymore since pretty much everything has changed.

i did order up a clutch pedal assembly rebuild kit from RTM, as well as a braided steel clutch line from ExtremePSI too. so i plan on putting those in sometime in the future.
Got any pictures of where its supposed to be welded at? Ive heard of this but i have yet to see any actual pictures of where.
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I went through this and even though my fork was in the middle, it had to be shimmed. Have a feeling it's something to do with the competition clutch forks because that's what I changed to also. Good news is you can shim it through the window BUT if the washer falls, you may or may not have to drop the trans depending on where the washer lands.
So I re- bled the slave successfully. No more air coming out and still same result. Looks like I gotta pull the trans again. Any recommendations on what size washers I should put in it?
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
So, hopped right into it this morning. 7am rolls around, I roll out of bed and get to work.

I was shooting to have the trans on the ground within an hour but I ended up doing it in about 1 hour 40 min including putting the car in stands.

I picked up some stainless 1.2mm washers from Ace hardware. Test fitted the trans, pulled it back out, repeat. I actually ended up using 3 of these washers so that it the fork sat JUST passed the middle. Everything seemed to go smooth.

I was even able to fine a new flywheel inspection cover and painted it the same silver my trans is.

Fast forward after the trans and everything is back in, I fire it up and still very very hard to get into gear.. I was able to but then even with the clutch pressed there was a noticeable shudder coming from the clutch.

After RE-reading RRE's post about the slaves, I grabbed the slaves little rubber boot and pulled it open and brake fluid leaked out. So I'm fairly certain that was the problem, or at least most of it..
I took a video of how far the slave/ fork travels when the clutch is pressed. It still doesn't seem to travel that far..

I ordered a new OEM slave and I'll get that in ASAP as well as the new braided line too!

IMG_20210410_160939.jpg


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IMG_20210410_095437.jpg
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Sooooo I got everything today. including a new fork boot/cover ( the one on the trans, not the slave) and a torque solutions trans mount.
Extreme psi braided steel clutch line. I basically ran this the same as the OEM line, and picked up some of those metal line brackets and used the factory mounting locations and bolts to secure the line to the firewall. Clean, secured and out of the way! I mounted it to the trans, using the old clutch line bracket right on the trans as well.

Attempted to bleed the clutch again and thought I was successful but apparently not. I tried to put the car in gear (with the clutch pressed of course) whole turning the car over and it still would not go into gear. After holding the clutch down for probably a good 30 seconds it got stuck to the floor. I think I've got more bleeding to do. The new slave bleeder valve is quite a bit shorter than the old one so it was even more of a pain than the one I replaced!

The trans mount was kind of a pain too.. had to use a dead blow hammer to hammer the new one into the trans mounted side of the bracket, and then the new bolts are 17s instead of 14s and my socket got stuck IN the frame rail so that was fun to fish out 😅

I had to replace the trans mount because the bolt threads in the old one were stripped out, almost completely.

I threw in a picture of where the clutch fork sits while resting against the pressure plate just to show it *should* be shimmed correctly.

I also ordered up a JM Fab clutch master cap because BOTH of my tabs are broken off on mine. Maybe that's part of the reason too?

I took apart my previous slave cylinder too because I'm sure it's bad, and it's the first time I've cracked one open. I plan on buying a rebuild kit for it so I'll have a spare for later. Is there any reason why the new slave piston is GOLD and the old one is RED?

Hopefully bleeding it correctly actually fixes this issue because if not, I'm legit going to be bummed.

IMG_20210413_170108.jpg


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IMG_20210410_134234.jpg


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IMG_20210414_210637.jpg
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
There are two different bore size for the slave. Got to post #392


So you have a bad slave?
I'm really not sure what is bad. It seems that when I replace something, another breaks. Its great to have all the new parts but it sucks that I don't seem to be getting to the bottom of anything. I DO however think my slave was bad because it was leaking dirty grimy brake fluid from inside the boot.
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
So had my brother over to help bleed the system manually. Pump the clutch, hold it, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder with the clutch pressed, pull it back up and repeat. That didn't work.

I tried to put the car in gear and start it with the clutch pressed and it lurched forwards.

To me it just seems that the slave is just not getting the travel it needs.

I looked under my dash to the master cylinder rod and found that there's the same black liquid as from the slave? I'm assuming that means it's bad too and there's fluid leaking around the internal oring on the piston. I might just order a new one so that I KNOW it's brand new and the condition.

Clutch pedal rebuild kit showed up. If I end up doing the master, I'll probably just rip the pedal assembly out and do that too.

What's everyone's opinions on getting the clutch welded? I brought the kit with the brass bushings. If you're pro weld, who the go to for welding? No one here that's a fabricator is familiar with dsm in order to do it correctly.

IMG_20210415_164546.jpg
 

Guy Farting

Probationary Member
12
1
Sep 4, 2014
Stanley, North_Dakota
I hope i figure my issue out got a oem slave coming tommrow from ext psi. Im at my wits end to get this thing going, everrything is new , uggg thanks toni for some insight.
Hey there I'm not to active but I have dealt with this as well. I stayed late on a Friday night at a shop I worked in until the sun came up on Saturday trying to bleed a dsm clutch and I got it! The manual says you have to have a clean bottle of fluid with a hose running off the bleeder into it.

But first I found that if you have a full bottle with a hose in it to the bleeder then leave it "cracked" and pull a vacuum on the filler neck or even the compression fitting at the top just before the master cylinder it works well. Any hand vacuum pump kit should have the correct size rubber lines. If I have to mail it too you I will! Good luck brotha
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Hey there I'm not to active but I have dealt with this as well. I stayed late on a Friday night at a shop I worked in until the sun came up on Saturday trying to bleed a dsm clutch and I got it! The manual says you have to have a clean bottle of fluid with a hose running off the bleeder into it.

But first I found that if you have a full bottle with a hose in it to the bleeder then leave it "cracked" and pull a vacuum on the filler neck or even the compression fitting at the top just before the master cylinder it works well. Any hand vacuum pump kit should have the correct size rubber lines. If I have to mail it too you I will! Good luck brotha
So you're saying like a reverse bleed? Suck fluid up from a bottle from the slave bleeder?
 

Guy Farting

Probationary Member
12
1
Sep 4, 2014
Stanley, North_Dakota
Yes sir! But be careful how far you open the lowere bleeder because if you put enough vacuum on it, it will suck air past the pipe threads on bleeder
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
4,683
1,937
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
The master is leaking for sure so get that fixed as well. As far as welding the pedal, I’d check if it has play since it seems like a pain to remove from what I’ve read. And grab a self bleeder. They’re only $10 and is so much easier because of the location of the bleeder on the 1gs.
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Ordered up a new master cylinder. Will be here Tuesday. When I do that I might as well take the plunge and pull out the pedal assembly and rebuild it.

I don't think I'm going to have it welded. I've been told that welding can cause the surrounding metals to weaken and cause issues with that and the welds can crack.
 

Anfurnyy

Proven Member
138
53
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
The master is leaking for sure so get that fixed as well. As far as welding the pedal, I’d check if it has play since it seems like a pain to remove from what I’ve read. And grab a self bleeder. They’re only $10 and is so much easier because of the location of the bleeder on the 1gs.
New master ordered, I tried to take a video of the play and it didn't seem like there really was any to me. Can't seem to upload it because it's too big.

Are you talking about a speed bleeder?
 
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