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1g bov vent to atmosphere? [Merged 6-8] venting

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TSIAWDTalon

20+ Year Contributor
384
15
Jun 21, 2002
Greensburg, Kentucky
I have read a lot of "controversy" regarding bov venting to the atmosphere. I want to vent mine, for my own reasons, but I don't want to change from the 1g. Is this possible? :confused: Any help would be appreciated, and no flaming, please.
 
OK without opening the venting can of worms. I have ran vented for almost 3 years with the HKS SSQV with zero problems. That being said, I have NEVER heard of a 1G running right vented. The A/F guage will do nothing for you if you vent. If you want to know if your car is running like ass when venting just drive it. The best thing you can do if you want to vent is get the GM MAFT.

If I have noticed one thing on this board. You do not want to ask a question about venting because one of two thing will happen. Either you'll get flamed for it by people who have heard or that venting is bad or the thread just gets locked. If you really want to know if it works get a BOV that has the option to recirculate. That way if it screws up vented you can always recirculate.
 
MyEclipse5 said:
:cry: but if i get a gmmaft setup(over $200) i gotta tune my fuel so i gotta get a SAFC, then i might as well upgrade my fuels system, bigger inj, rewire fuel pump, bigger fuel pump..by that timeim ready for a new turbo s ill have to get a 16G.

Its just too much money. :cry:


I know i know..Welcome to the wonderful world of DSMs.

Actually, the MAFT does the same things a AFC would do. You can adjust low, mid, and high fuel levels. Thus you don't really need to buy anything other than it. But yes, you will have to spend some time tuning it.
 
oh and if you vent for a while and unplug the battery for whatever reason/battery dies, be prepared to recirculate it for it to relearn itself after you start it again. if you just try to turn it on vented and the ecu is fresh, it will die. just recirc for a day or 2 then vent after the ecu relearns itself fully.
 
madman said:
i just installed the GReddy type BOV and we've adjusted the screw form all the way soft to all the way hard and when you shift, left off the excelarator, it flutters in stead of the wooosh. any sugestions or knowledge of why its doing that?????


I had the same problem, but thought it sounded cool... try turning the screw 1 in a half turns softer... youve got your screw down to low... then you should get that nice SWOOSH sound... just to tight, thats all

-DSMike
 
Sometimes it might be your bov too...cuz I know some one that has a 16g set @ 20psi...and when hes on the street and shifting at like 5psi(with boost control) sometimes his bov flutters...depending on how high your psi is, where you are shifting, and what ur bov is set at...if u have a big time turbo but u run low pressure on the street...expect some flutters
 
Is there a way to tune for venting?? I was venting for about a month and hated it... at about 70mph the car would jerk and buck because it was getting to much fuel w/o enough air. Im recirculated again and just got my logger and afc and car has never ran better and i just set the low throttle points.Personally i wouldnt vent because i had a bad experience but do what you want to do.

Bryan
(sorry if i jacked your thread)
 
95TSiNewbie said:
Is there a way to tune for venting?? I was venting for about a month and hated it... at about 70mph the car would jerk and buck because it was getting to much fuel w/o enough air. Im recirculated again and just got my logger and afc and car has never ran better and i just set the low throttle points.Personally i wouldnt vent because i had a bad experience but do what you want to do.

Bryan
(sorry if i jacked your thread)

You can tune for the idle problems with venting. But not that problems that happen elsewhere in the RPM band. Of course, define tuning?!? If it's buying a device that will let you accomplish threw electrical adjustments your end goal of venting, then YES! A MAFT will let you "tune" this!
 
I guess i just dont see the point to venting.. even with a blow thru MAFT setup it has no performance gains that I know of but I dont have one so I shouldnt be saying anything. Anyone have anything else to add?
 
Well, the MAFT will solve the venting problem, and personally I think it should have been in a blow through setup from the factory, i mean, is it smarter to read the air right at the TB inlet, or right after the air filter, when it goes through the turbo, intercooler, etc, and maybe some leaks out (it shouldn't, but I'm just saying...)?

Anyway, no, your A/F gauge won't tell if your rich, because it gets the reading from the stock O2 sensor, which, for any kind of tuning, sucks. If you really want to get into tuning your own car (which is a very rewarding experience) then a wideband O2 setup is required, the stock one just won't cut it.

95TSiNewbie, i think the point to venting is that to some people, it sounds cool. Other then that there is no point, but hey it's your own car - I don't wanna start a flamewar though.

Bottom line about venting, as it has been said many times: Venting (when your car is in otherwise stock form MAS-wise) WILL make your car run rich, simple as that. Now some cars have bad bogging, crappy idle, etc, and some cars (seem to) run fine! Personally I'd run the 1G BOV, crushed if needed, it's definetly the best BOV for the money.
 
i run 8-10psi right now (on a cracked mani, which is getting replaced with a 2G ported VERY soon)

When i get my MBC and turn up to 14, what happens...more air is introduced, and same amount of fuel, if i go too much higher i get fuel cut because there is "TOO MUCH AIR"...so if i vent will this fix my problem. SEEMS like a smart idea, but a world of opening my wallet to many things would accur in the future, my guess anyway.
 
Air fuel gauges are worthless in the first place. They won't tell you jack. NO MATTER WHAT ALL CARS THAT VENT HAVE PROBLEMS. It just a matter of whether they notice or not. You will not bog unless you are using the srock BOV, because they leak at idle.
 
MyEclipse5 said:
i run 8-10psi right now (on a cracked mani, which is getting replaced with a 2G ported VERY soon)

When i get my MBC and turn up to 14, what happens...more air is introduced, and same amount of fuel, if i go too much higher i get fuel cut because there is "TOO MUCH AIR"...so if i vent will this fix my problem. SEEMS like a smart idea, but a world of opening my wallet to many things would accur in the future, my guess anyway.

Your understanding of your cars reaction to increased boost is incorrect. When you turn up the boost, the stock fuel pressure regulator increases the fuel pressure to compensate. Thus your entire theory is off. Sorry. That's the problem with fuel cut, there is a point at which the ECU knows that the stock pump can't take it and turns it off...
 
I have GM MAFT and still recirculate. I heard it helps with the spooling of larger turbos.
 
temfate said:
Your understanding of your cars reaction to increased boost is incorrect. When you turn up the boost, the stock fuel pressure regulator increases the fuel pressure to compensate. Thus your entire theory is off. Sorry. That's the problem with fuel cut, there is a point at which the ECU knows that the stock pump can't take it and turns it off...

ahhhhh, ok, i get it now.
 
alright does anyone in here actually know when fuel cut happens? because for a little bit i had a broken wastegate actuator and didnt realize it until my car was boosting 20psi. Now i dont race yet so its not like i'm always in the high rpm range, but i was just messin around one day and checked out my boost gauge and it just kept climing, for a couple seconds i was boosting over 20psi my boost gauge just only reads up to 20. A lot of DSM tuner websites say that u can't boost over 16psi without the fuel cut coming into effect, actually most of them say u cant boost over 16 psi *SAFELY* without getting a new fuel pump. So i mean i was just wondering what the max is, i know that for a couple seconds my car was running ridiculously lean, i mean it had to be it is just not made to run over 20psi.

Oh ya also i'm n00bness aswell so where would u find the better wire to rewire ur fuel pump so it maintaines better pressure? like it says in the tuning guide to run 13/14 volts instead of 10 or 11. Where would u get the better wire?
 
CanadianTSi said:
Actually the BOV releases when the throttle plate closes.
Or any other time the vacuum comes up high enough to crack it. Such as at idle, or during coast-down, or at light throttle openings. So you have all that unmetered, unfiltered air coming into your engine at those times.

Still, it's all yours. Knock yourself out for that precious pssss.
 
Defiant said:
Or any other time the vacuum comes up high enough to crack it. Such as at idle, or during coast-down, or at light throttle openings. So you have all that unmetered, unfiltered air coming into your engine at those times.

Still, it's all yours. Knock yourself out for that precious pssss.

So true. If you vent your BOV on a metered air system, you are going to lose partial throttle driveability. It will be fine under WOT situations, but will run RICH at partial throttle, idle, and inbetween shifts. Won't hurt anything, just run like hell.
 
Just get an electronic bov emulator. I really hope you don't think it's any stupider than just venting in the first place. Both are purely for noise and to get noticed, neither have any type of performance gain, only performance loss.

So really just get yourself an electronic bov emulator which will do the job perfectly without the performance loss and you will have exactly what you want. What? Sound stupid? Nooo really?
 
CanadianTSi said:
Actually the BOV releases when the throttle plate closes.
SOmetimes you gotta be simple for people that may not understand. :)
 
Generation1JeY said:
alright does anyone in here actually know when fuel cut happens? because for a little bit i had a broken wastegate actuator and didnt realize it until my car was boosting 20psi. Now i dont race yet so its not like i'm always in the high rpm range, but i was just messin around one day and checked out my boost gauge and it just kept climing, for a couple seconds i was boosting over 20psi my boost gauge just only reads up to 20. A lot of DSM tuner websites say that u can't boost over 16psi without the fuel cut coming into effect, actually most of them say u cant boost over 16 psi *SAFELY* without getting a new fuel pump. So i mean i was just wondering what the max is, i know that for a couple seconds my car was running ridiculously lean, i mean it had to be it is just not made to run over 20psi.

Oh ya also i'm n00bness aswell so where would u find the better wire to rewire ur fuel pump so it maintaines better pressure? like it says in the tuning guide to run 13/14 volts instead of 10 or 11. Where would u get the better wire?

Well, fuel cut varies based on many variables. That's why you'll never find a thread where someone gives you an exact point. With a 14b on a 1st gen you should be fine to 16, 18 would be pushing it, and 20+ you're playing with fire. It's more a matter of no one wanting to hit it and do the damage so they decide what levels are "safe" on all cars.

Now with a T25 as 2nd gens have you can pretty much add one or two psi to each of those numbers, and with a 16g you should decrease them. You see different turbos flow different amounts of air even at the same pressure. I encourage you to go read about this by doing a search here. As for a fuel pump re-wire, pep boys, autozone, advance, etc will all carry rolls of 10guage wire you can buy. Radio shack carries the connectors and relay. It's cost about $20-$35 based on what you keep around the house and what you need. Check the vfaq at www.vfaq.com.
 
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