1991 Eclipse GST - Volume: Shake My Head

[Dr Funkenstein]

Hello everyone,

Some of you may remember me, but in all fairness most of you probably don't. Over the summer I purchased a 1991 Eclipse GST with 166,XXX miles on the clock for $1,000. It needed a few things fixed on it, but what 20+ year old car doesn't?

Little did I know, that every time I fixed one thing, two more things would break on it. So far I have replaced the hatch struts, alternator (VR4 version), power-steering pump, driver's side mirror, battery, calipers and pads (EBC Green Stuff; rotors were brand new), radiator and a bunch of hoses. I installed my Alpine head unit, NGK spark plugs and wires and a K&N air filter.

Seems like a good start, right? Wrong. As it sits now, it needs a new head gasket. I was undecided between selling the car and keeping it. In the end, I realized I wouldn't get back even half the money I invested into it, so I decided to keep it. Funds are low at the moment because I got laid off. However, I should be going back to work soon and thusly am ready for phase two of my project.

I plan on this being my daily driver. Some may call be crazy and some may call me a moron. Both accusations may be correct. However, this is my goal. I will be stacking away money once I start working again so I can drive my baby. While I am getting the head gasket replaced, I figured I may replace a few other things. The plan so far is as follows:

1. Head gasket. (OEM or MLS?)
2. Timing belt. (OEM or aftermarket? i.e. GReddy)
3. Water pump.
4. Valve stem seals.
5. Lifters (Re-visioned or 3G?)
6. Balance shaft eliminator kit (Mitsubishi or RRE?)
7. ARP head studs

I'd appreciate your opinions on the above. Also, let me know if I am missing anything I should look into. I had spoke to my father's mechanic a couple months ago and he quoted me at around $1,300 for the HG, TB and WP, so I hope to keep this under $2,000. I should also mention that I am still leaking power-steering fluid from somewhere above the exhaust. I also need new tires and to take care of the rust.

What did I get myself into?


Sorry for the long post, so here are some pictures of my baby.

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[94_TSi]

Oem everything including non mls hg and 3g lifters arent a bad idea along with Arp's.

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

Oem everything including non mls hg and 3g lifters arent a bad idea along with Arp's.

So, you would go with the Mitsubishi balance shaft eliminator kit over the RRE one? I plan on building this to ~250hp, but obviously that won't be for quite some time.

 

[Dhan]

I rebuilt my head and used the 3G lifters. Still no "clicking" or problems after about 8,000mi.

 

[Tanro]

OEM Everything is for idiots and fools.

1. Fel Pro - Composite Head Gasket.
- or -
Cometic - MLS (More work and more expensive for little to no gain unless your building a monster that requires it)

2. Gates. You have two options for gates. Standard OEM Quality Belt, or For the same prices as an OEM Belt (stealership price) you can get a shiny blue one that is of a higher quality.

3. Gates.
4. Felpro
5. They are the same thing. Definently get them if you find that ticking annoying vs. something dsm should do.

6. DSM Graveyard. I ordered the OEM Mistu Stubby Shaft from them and got the bearings free. W/e its the lowest price I could find anywhere just ordering the stuff from them.

7. Yes. Several Good vendors. If you wait around a while you could get a set on sale or from the classifieds.

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

Quick question. I've been browsing eBay for a few minutes now looking for a cheap intake pipe for my car. I already have a K&N air filter, but I just want to get rid of the ugly stock piping. I can't seem to find one for my car that has the plate where the MAS goes like this Dejon intake:

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Does that plate come right off so I can just connect it to the new intake piping?

 

[DSM1G90]

OEM Everything is for idiots and fools

Oh, I dunno about that - I'm OEM and I run like a champ - I start up in any kind of weather, idles real smooth with no tic whatsoever, gets up real good down the freeway and I have 184k miles on me.

I use Mobil1, 10w/30 all year around - none of that expensive racing oil stuff. I still run stock 205/55R-16 tires - don't need to blow monies on expensive rims and low-profile, hard rubber tires that all costs a person's a half a year wages.

I still use the CA 6362 stock air filter and my aircan is still intact-not all hacked up. But, I do use NGK BPR6EY (grooved electrode) plugs for it got me a little more bump that stock plugs. But, did get smart in using MT-90 in my original tranny-sure made the shifting real smooth after the original junk was drained out.

I don't need any of that DSMLink logging jazz or mods to prove something that I'm not. Only thing that I had to get a rebuilt ECU in me to get my youth back. Pretty good for a 21 yr old DSM, you might say.

Course, I can't take all of the credit since I have a JDM VR4, 4G63 in me.

You might easily beat me in the quarter with your modded up road rocket, but so what? My insurance remains cheap and I keep my driving record clean.

Plus, I did my own two belts - timing and balance belts and got the marks on dead on without any problems.

So, call me a fool and idiot since I never had my vehicle up on the racks 90% of the time figuring out how to get it back in operation with wanting to shoot it, or blame the manufacturer on how they built these vehicles like some of the other DSM owners here on these forums?

Too funny!

( Dr. Funkenstein: what'd ya did with the stock radio (does it work?) Could steal it from you if you didn't want it ...)


Good luck with your decision in what you want to do with your ride ... - DSM

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

I have the radio in a box right now. Not sure if it works. When I got the car the radio didn't turn on, so I instantly removed it and put my Alpine in. Still didn't work, so I replaced the fuse and it worked. I noticed the stock radio wasn't grounded to anything so maybe that blew the fuse.

 

[HIGHPSI4]

I tell everyone it takes 18 months to get a DSM back up to grade. OEM is for fools? I would not put a FailPro on my lawn mower.

 

[Tanro]

OEM is for fools? I would not put a FailPro on my lawn mower.

Cool

Oem products are often more expensive, and of inferior quality when compared to other products. That can be gotten for cheaper. Say well I only use OEM products makes you sound like Hank Hill, and he payed full sticker price for every vehicle he ever bought.

I have been using Fel-Pro gaskets for 8 years and never, not once had one fail on me prematurely. So next time you install a gasket, try to do it right. Hint: You need a clean mating surface bro.

 

[oneslowevo]

1. Head gasket. (OEM or MLS?) metal only, and make sure your surfaces are super clean!!
2. Timing belt. OEM or a Gates
3. Water pump. I prefer OEM
4. Valve stem seals.
5. Lifters (Re-visioned or 3G?) I would since I hate the ticking...
6. Balance shaft eliminator kit (Mitsubishi or RRE?) Graveyard
7. ARP head studs Yes

 

[DSMReviver]

I think OEM are good, if some of the dsm's can go 200k or even more on OEM equipped products i dont see a problem there. for a low boost with good power OEM can handle just fined. Just look at numerous 6bolts shattering hp record with stock motor(500-600hp Ex, Onster dsm with E85*) on OEM stuff. They are just reliable or better than cheap autozone products.

Ofcourse, we can't all afford to buy OEM so the alternatives will have to do.
But, if you can spend alittle more then the OEM's, The quality of the aftermarket products do really shine.

Look at both sides...

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Anyone suggesting that you run in MLS head gasket is an idiot. In order to run an MLS head gasket you have to have a very fine, smooth surface on both decks, the head and block. This requires removing the engine and all internals and having both surfaces refinished. This is expensive and time consuming. He is on a strict budget and this is going to be a DD. A composite head gasket is very forgiving with uneven surfaces and holds a LOT of pressure when combined with ARP studs. I personally use, and will only use, an OEM Mitsubishi composite head gasket. I have heard good things about the Fel-pro as well though.

Timing belt I would recommend an OEM. The Kevlar ones look nice, I am using a Gates Racing, but honestly the OEM works perfect, even for high revving track monsters.

Water Pump, OEM only! Please don't skimp for Topline.

Valve seals, I would skip OEM and go with the blue Viton seals.

Lifters, Definitely 3g/revised (they are the same thing). http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/353171-revised-lifters-ebay-too-good-true.html Check out the link I posted in that thread for ITM 3g lifters for $71 shipped.

BSEK, I used OEM from JNZ. I'd bet the RRE kit uses the same OEM parts though.

Head studs, Yes ARP!

Yes I remember you and your car, glad to have you back.

Hope this helps!

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Quick question. I've been browsing eBay for a few minutes now looking for a cheap intake pipe for my car. I already have a K&N air filter, but I just want to get rid of the ugly stock piping. I can't seem to find one for my car that has the plate where the MAS goes like this Dejon intake:

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Does that plate come right off so I can just connect it to the new intake piping?

Yes, a cheap intake pipe will work fine. The pipe attaches to the lid with a coupling. I'm not sure what plate you are talking about though. You keep your old MAS, fliter, and lid and attach it to your new pipe with a coupling and 2 clamps.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Anyone suggesting that you run in MLS head gasket is an idiot. In order to run an MLS head gasket you have to have a very fine, smooth surface on both decks, the head and block. This requires removing the engine and all internals and having both surfaces refinished. This is expensive and time consuming. He is on a strict budget and this is going to be a DD. A composite head gasket is very forgiving with uneven surfaces and holds a LOT of pressure when combined with ARP studs. I personally use, and will only use, an OEM Mitsubishi composite head gasket. I have heard good things about the Fel-pro as well though.

Timing belt I would recommend an OEM. The Kevlar ones look nice, I am using a Gates Racing, but honestly the OEM works perfect, even for high revving track monsters.

Water Pump, OEM only! Please don't skimp for Topline.

Valve seals, I would skip OEM and go with the blue Viton seals.

Lifters, Definitely 3g/revised (they are the same thing). http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/353171-revised-lifters-ebay-too-good-true.html Check out the link I posted in that thread for ITM 3g lifters for $71 shipped.

BSEK, I used OEM from JNZ. I'd bet the RRE kit uses the same OEM parts though.

Head studs, Yes ARP!

Yes I remember you and your car, glad to have you back.

Hope this helps!

^ This.

I'm sure the last thing a guy on a budget wants to hear is poor advise on installing an MLS head gasket followed by "It Blew!" Because the surfaces weren't machined... or coming to the realization that he just bought an MLS head gasket and that he now has to pull his engine.

Seriously. Think before you speak.

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

Thanks, guys. Apparently I am going back to work in the next two weeks, so its time to start stacking money. I'm assuming since Mitsubishi makes a BSE kit that my mechanic won't have any problems installing, I'll have to talk it over with him once I have the money.

Only thing I'm nervous about is the rust. My dad delivers car parts so he knows a lot of body shop employees. I wonder how expensive welding in new sheet metal gets.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Thanks, guys. Apparently I am going back to work in the next two weeks, so its time to start stacking money. I'm assuming since Mitsubishi makes a BSE kit that my mechanic won't have any problems installing, I'll have to talk it over with him once I have the money.

You are welcome. That good to hear about your work. Here is how you install the BSEK: Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

Hey guys,

Finally started work this week! First step is to buy new tires. My car is missing the center caps for the rims. Anyone know where I can buy four OEM center caps for the rims? I plan on painting my rims gold too.

 

[tkelly27]

you also need an OEM timing belt tensioner and pulleys. I didn't want to assume you had already gotten them, but if you have, great. I wouldn't f* around with an aftermarket tensioner, even though I use aftermarket stuff for most everything else.

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

Yeah, I knew I'd have to get a new tensioner, but do I really need new pulleys?

 

[tkelly27]

I called them pulleys. You can call them that, or bearings, I think there is even a proper name for them. There is an idler and the one that actually puts tension on the belt. The back side (non toothed) side of the belt rides on them. I put one in wrong and it was stuck against the water pump, so I got to experience what it is like if they seize up. You'll want new OEM ones.

http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/Tbelt/Tbelt5.jpg

I think what you are thinking of are the camshaft gears/sprocket, crank sprocket, or the oil pump sprocket which don't need to be replaced unless it is damaged.

The harmonic damper can separate, so you could consider changing that out while you're having it all done. If it hasn't come apart, you don't need to, but hope you catch it if it does.

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

So, the list grows...

OEM Timing Belt
OEM Head Gasket
OEM Water Pump
OEM Tensioner
OEM Valve Stem Seals
Topline Revised Lifters
ARP Head Studs
OEM Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
OEM Tensioner Pulley
OEM Idler Pulley

 

[Chaosweaver]

So, the list grows...

OEM Timing Belt
OEM Head Gasket
OEM Water Pump
OEM Tensioner
OEM Valve Stem Seals
Topline Revised Lifters
ARP Head Studs
OEM Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
OEM Tensioner Pulley
OEM Idler Pulley

I recommend a Cometic head gasket.

 

[Dr Funkenstein]

I'm ordering a set of relatively cheap summer tires today. I don't know anything about tires, but what do you guys think of these? Yokohama S.drive

205/55's would fit, right?

 

[thomcasey]

That's the right size as long as they are stock 16" rims from 1990-1999