194 miles into break-in

[XiKeiyaZI]

So I've got 192 miles in on my rebuilt engine. I've noticed a few things which I detail below along with the way I've been driving it.

Miles 1-50 : I started off easy... and slowly eased into it. Per the Motoman break-in method I accelerated and allowed the car to engine brake from 35-55-35. I did this for about 5 miles total. The Rest was driving with complete cool-down every 10-15 miles.

Oil Change

Miles 50-100 : I drove the car easy and steady, varying between 3rd and 4th.

Miles 100-192 : I continued to drive steadily. I would ease into boost every now and then, and ran 2nd to 4.5K going up a hill. I'm still getting used to boost and wasn't quite expecting it to start pulling heading up from a stoplight like that.

So far it's still burning a bit of oil. I get a little mist of smoke, which the manual says will happen for a bit until the rings seat. =/ Wish they'd hurry up and seat...

I have noticed there is a little oil dripping somewhere and falling onto my exhaust which only ADDS to the blue smoke. I'm pretty sure it's the return line from my Turbo where it meets my oil pan. I'll be checking that today.

There are also a few noises that I'll be checking on when I get home today. I drove the car straight for 2 hours last night with absolutely no issues. I'm quite proud of her. I had to have at least assembled it half right for it to not have blown up by now, correct?

Any comments or suggestions? Any oil recommendations?

 

[donniekak]

I had to have at least assembled it half right for it to not have blown up by now, correct?

Yes, if it doesn't spin a rod bearing driving around the block the first time, it's usually ok.

On the break in. I just did a first start on a build i did for my car. I probably have about 15-20 miles on it so far, and after the first 3-5 miles of my break in procedure( very much like motoman) where i had the boost set at 10 psi, have been boosting 30 psi, and revving progressivly higher.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Yes, if it doesn't spin a rod bearing driving around the block the first time, it's usually ok.

On the break in. I just did a first start on a build i did for my car. I probably have about 15-20 miles on it so far, and after the first 3-5 miles of my break in procedure( very much like motoman) where i had the boost set at 10 psi, have been boosting 30 psi, and revving progressivly higher.

I still haven't gotten around to installing my Boost Gauge or MBC.. which I need to do ASAP... and fix this damned oil leak.

Haha, I haven't really gotten into like that. I don't believe a stock engine can handle 30PSI. ;P The only big internal factors I have is an ACT 2100 and ARP l19's...Would you suggest it's safe to be getting into it by now?

 

[donniekak]

I still haven't gotten around to installing my Boost Gauge or MBC.. which I need to do ASAP... and fix this damned oil leak.

Haha, I haven't really gotten into like that. I don't believe a stock engine can handle 30PSI. ;P The only big internal factors I have is an ACT 2100 and ARP l19's...Would you suggest it's safe to be getting into it by now?

I've put 30psi through many stock 6-bolts.

The main issue with putting power through a fresh build is the tune. You do not want to run rich on a fresh set of rings. After a couple hundred miles most, if not all ring to cylinder wall seating is done.

I would fix all leaks, and slowly up the boost to your target level.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I wasnt ever expecting to go over 20, much less 30.

What would be safe for an inexperienced Boosted DSM owner?

Like I said, other than the ARPS and Clutch, this thing is bone stock save for a 91' 23 Spline Trans, L19's, and that ACT clutch assembly.

 

[Grescht]

With head studs and a good head gasket you can run in the ballpark of 25psi with the stock 6 bolt. just gotta have the fuel.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

With head studs and a good head gasket you can run in the ballpark of 25psi with the stock 6 bolt. just gotta have the fuel.

Yeah, I figured I'd hit fuel problems with too much over 15.

Which... by the way....

I installed my Boost Guage and MBC. Turned it down a bit to start adjusting, and it fell right where I wanted it. 15ish PSI

Before, I was running 6-8ish. o___o I... didn't know that 15ish would pull that damned hard! xD Why didn't someone warn me of the difference of a few pounds?!

But yeah, I drove it for a couple of hours last night, experimented with the boost a little. I've determined that the gasket on the oil pan must not have seated correctly, I'm slowly dripping oil onto my exhaust causing a bit of smoke. I had figured, before, that it was oil burning as the rings seated, but nope. Oil Pan. So I'll be resolving this today.

Another thing I noticed is that in 2nd gear, when Decelerating, sometimes the car bucks. Most of the time lightly but noticably, and always only for just a second or so. But there was one instance where I was decelling down a hill and it was horrible.

I'm going to be checking my Drive-Train for any possible reasons. I've never messed with the rear-end, so is there anything specific I should look for there? It feels like there's some light resistance somewhere in the drivetrain. Could it by trans fluid?

I'm using Straight GM Synchromesh in both the trans and T-Case. Should I use otherwise?

 

[RBehne2]

Before, I was running 6-8ish. o___o I... didn't know that 15ish would pull that damned hard! xD Why didn't someone warn me of the difference of a few pounds?!

I had a 3000GT owner wanting to buy my car after he felt what 25psi felt like!

Have you changed the oil as well? After a build, I run the motor for a few, just to get the leftover metal shavings out. As small as they are, they can still cause damage. Then I do another oil change.

 

[99gst_racer]

Miles 1-50 : I started off easy... and slowly eased into it. Per the Motoman break-in method I accelerated and allowed the car to engine brake from 35-55-35. I did this for about 5 miles total. The Rest was driving with complete cool-down every 10-15 miles.

I sure hope you were allowing it to build boost during these miles. How much boost and on what turbo was break-in done on?

I've determined that the gasket on the oil pan must not have seated correctly, I'm slowly dripping oil onto my exhaust causing a bit of smoke. I had figured, before, that it was oil burning as the rings seated, but nope. Oil Pan. So I'll be resolving this today.

Don't use a gasket on the pan. All it needs is a bead of black RTV silicone.

Another thing I noticed is that in 2nd gear, when Decelerating, sometimes the car bucks. Most of the time lightly but noticably, and always only for just a second or so. But there was one instance where I was decelling down a hill and it was horrible.

I would guess that's due to the sprung hub of your clutch. What clutch are you running?

I'm going to be checking my Drive-Train for any possible reasons. I've never messed with the rear-end, so is there anything specific I should look for there? It feels like there's some light resistance somewhere in the drivetrain. Could it by trans fluid?

I'm using Straight GM Synchromesh in both the trans and T-Case. Should I use otherwise?

Change all of your fluids - especially if you don't know how old they are or which fluid is in there.
Redline MT-90 for the tranny and Redline heavy shockproof for the t-case

 

[Boomdeeze]

I used a gasket and put RTV ultra grey around the gasket, Seemed to seal good.

 

[donniekak]

I used a gasket and put RTV ultra grey around the gasket, Seemed to seal good.

Rule of thumb. Gasket, or RTV, not both.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I only put RTV on the pan side since some of the bolts have been slightly over torqued. Whats wrong with using both? I have read a few threads on here that state people using both and have never had any problems. Now when I take off my pan, It will actually come off since the RTV isn't stuck to the block.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I sure hope you were allowing it to build boost during these miles. How much boost and on what turbo was break-in done on?

I allowed boost. Not much, but I did let it build up.

Don't use a gasket on the pan. All it needs is a bead of black RTV silicone.

Noted.

I would guess that's due to the sprung hub of your clutch. What clutch are you running?

It's sprung. I'm running an ACT 2100 PP. The disk, itself, I don't know. It came with the parts car. Had it inspected, had plenty of meat left on it and was in good shape. Had about 60% of it's life left.

Change all of your fluids - especially if you don't know how old they are or which fluid is in there.
Redline MT-90 for the tranny and Redline heavy shockproof for the t-case

Yeah, o.o Guess I'll be checking the Rear Transfer case.

I'll have to order the redline. No one sells it here.

As for oil changes. I've changed the oil once so far at 50 miles. Going to change it again tomorrow after I cap 200 miles. Then again at 500. Then at 1000, then 2000, and then every 3000 miles. Won't go synthetic until the 2000 mile mark.

 

[99gst_racer]

Don't be afraid to boost on it. High cylinder pressure followed by a high vacuum deceleration will really help seat those rings better than anything else.

Are you 100% sure that you have all bolts in place holding the bellhousing to the block? If any are missing, it was easily allow for a flex when the clutch pedal is depressed. The bellhousing can actually pull away from the block far enough to compromise the clutch's clamping force and the result is a springy (and sometimes violent) "grab and release" feel. Naturally, this is only possible on sprung hub clutches.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I'll double check on those. I was actually concerned with this and it crossed my mind. I'll be checking my Tranny to block and T-Case to trans bolts today.

Update :

All bolts are good... But now I have a damned different problem.

For some reason the car is running Hot. Hasn't overheated... I'd never allow it to near that last white line before the 'Oh Fvck' stage is reached.

Anyway, I popped the collant cap and STEAAAAMM. Damned 50/50.

Ironically? I was right next to auto-zone parking lot. So I walked in, grabbed some straight collant, threw it in and got it home. The Temp would rise and fall, rise and fall... which signified one thing to me - Bad Thermostat -

But wow? It was just replaced.

So Now I have to replace the thermostat... hope that I properly fill the coolant correctly because our fill caps are in horrible positions(I.E. when the thermo opens to circulate coolant, it simply fires out of the cap), and pray that my gaskets are okay?

Car is still smoking a bit. I figured out that the Oil Return line from the turbo was leaking due to a stripped bolt. It's running down onto my exhaust. Though I do still have a bit from the tail-pipe from burning oil in the cylinders. =/ Hope this stops soon...

I keep wondering if I have a bad head gasket? Don't have the tools for a leak-down test. Gawd. I'm always expecting the worst. =/ I noticed that outside of my compressor housing.. I have just a Little bit of oil... Which leads me to believe that I have a bad seal on the turbo? No oil anywhere in my intake piping though, so that's good correct?

Car also seems to be missing every so often, but I suppose that's my fault because I entirely forgot to do timing with the CAS. I SHOULD still have my mark at the crank. If not, is there an easy way to find it? Otherwise I'm just going to drill a view hole to find that damned thing. Not ripping all those damned pullys back off.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Now I'm dealing with 2 damned issues.

1 : The Downpipe from the Turbo to return the oil to the oil pan... one of the bolt-holes on the oil pan is stripped out. So I had to thread it and tighten it as much as I could and RTV the ever-loving hell out of it. I don't want to drop that pan right now. -.-;;

2 : I replaced the thermostat, coolant... and everything works great... then after idling for about 15 minutes the damned thing starts heating up again! I think I've found that neither of my fans are working anymore? They used to... so wth?

Would the fans not running cause overheating issues at idle? I figured it'd take a bit more. Guess not? I'll wire my fans to run off of remote. If, for some reason, they gave out overnight.. I have a spare radiator with fans. I'll just swap them over.

I REAALLLLY want to drive this damned thing again, but I won't dare with it getting hot.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Problem resolved....kinda.

Turns out it's my oil pressure effecting my heat?

As I drive the car, the pressure gets better and better. It is easier to get higher, quicker. However.. if I let the car sit, the pressure slowly declines damned near to the bottom line. I can remove the cap on the valve cover and see oil pushing through just fine....=/ But on a good note it has went from taking a while to get up in the "There is where you want to be zone " To being there on start-up and also while driving.

I'm thinking the declining pressure has to do with my oil-pump gear being out of phase? Everyone that I've asked said that it won't harm the engine... but it will cause unstable oil pressure? What would be the easiest way to do this? I'm really hating that I may have to remove the timing belt, but I'll surely do it for the sake of the car.

I also adjusted my throttle, CAS, and cable.. and have the car idling nice and smooth at about 700RPM. Sounds wonderful, actually. Seems to be getting better fuel economy as well. Didn't lose any noticeable power either. It was advanced quite a bit before... so it was pretty quick but I knew it wasn't right.

Note : I installed my Manual boost controler... tinkered with it a bit... and... is 15PSI safe? Because it pulls like a fvcking mule and boosts/pulls as smooth and steady as can be. I've only allowed it to boost to that a few times. I read that it should be safe.. just looking for a second opinion though.

Note 2 : What setup/HP range do you need to be in for a 2nd gear launch? o_o

 

[99gst_racer]

Engine oil viscosity changes with temperature. So, as the oil gets hotter, it gets thinner and your oil pressure drops a bit. This is completely normal. As long as there is some pressure at idle, you'll be fine. You could try a heavier weight oil if you want to try and get the pressure up.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Appreciated. @__@ Had me worried. There's always pressure.

I changed to conventional 10-40 with some lucas for the time being. Car seems to be groggy on start-up now, but seems to run a bit cooler and healthier once the oil gets worked through once or twice.
It's also getting hot as hell where I live, so I'm sure the engine appreciates it. I wired my fans to run with the Key... so yeah.

>> I'd still like to know the requirements to launch from 2nd.

Note : Again, would the oil pump being out of phase effect oil pressure? Is it something that should be worried about?

 

[Alex Bland]

im pretty sure my rings just set a about 450 miles. it use to smoke alot after sitting for about 15 mins and now it can sit for as long as i wants and not smoke. so mine too about 450 miles

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Awesome! ;D Lovely to hear from someone who just finished their break-in!

The oil pressure IS getting better.. slowly, but surely. When I got the first 100Miles on it, I was lucky to ever get to that first notch on my stock gauge. I'd have to be at 3.5K for it to reach. Now I can get a little over that point from 2.5 - 3K

How did you break yours in? What oil did you run? How hard did you run it? What boost were you pushing?

 

[97eclipseNT]

Is your car still over heating? Try replacing your rad cap. Bad rad caps won't hold pressure which will lead to a lower boiling temp for the coolant. I have experienced this a few times and your symptoms sound familiarl.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Is your car still over heating? Try replacing your rad cap. Bad rad caps won't hold pressure which will lead to a lower boiling temp for the coolant. I have experienced this a few times and your symptoms sound familiarl.

Thanks for the advice.

I honestly was thinking that, but I have yet to attempt a new cap. I've got it running nice and cool now, below the half-way mark. I wired my fans to run with the key on, threw in some water-wetter, and burped the coolant system before that. It seems to be doing fine now.

My Temp does go up if I sit for a while with my oil-pressure slowly lowering. Takes about 15 minutes for the heat to pick up.

 

[Alex Bland]

well i had a shop rebuild the motor but i had to do the break in part. i tried to keep no boost for like 100-150 miles and downshifting alot. then i started boosting here and there to about 200 miles then i started doing the stock boost. which my crappy 14b only makes 8 1/2 psi

 

[99gst_racer]

Just started the break-in process on the 6-bolt in my roommate's 2G on Sunday. We varied RPM and gear and repetitively went from a half throttle + boost, to a full vacuum deceleration. We did this for 25 miles, boosting several times a minute. This was on a 18G at 18 PSI. Make boost! The rings need force in both directions. After 25 miles, the engine ran and performed noticeably better.