The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

16G Stall / So it was just fuel cut now ??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

96-talon

Probationary Member
26
0
Sep 27, 2011
Lemoore, California
Ok just picked this car up and driving on my way home got on it and about 3800 rpm stalls and loses power !! I have no clue about these 4g63 cars the guy I bought it from was calling it fuel cut? Seems kinda like a compressor stall to me idk help plez thanks:rocks:
 
Ok so it was just fuel cut


Now what's injectors should I got with

What pump?

And at last what's a cheapest way to adjust AR to make ecu happy ?
 
On the housing it has 49178-01420 and ya there stock ...

What tuning software should I get and what injectors



What do you rec on injectors and pump and something to mange them?


Most of would suggest ECMTuning, Inc. for your tuning needs..And injectors, I say go big or go home, that way you only have to upgrade once..

And also if there is a 255 in the car I would look into an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator..
 
Just type in 2g eclipse upgrade path on google and that will give you a good idea of where to start. RRE Buschur and even on here there are upgrade paths.
 
My car runs fine with a 16g at wastegate pressure... I still have stock fuel. :thumb:

Wastegate pressure is a waste of a good 16g. Should have put a 14b on there and gotten a little quicker spool out of it.

On the housing it has 49178-01420 and ya there stock ...

What tuning software should I get and what injectors

What do you rec on injectors and pump and something to mange them?

That is a big 16g. It probably has a 7cm housing on it.

As far as tuning software, it all depends on how much you eventually want to do with the car. An SAFC II and some 560cc injectors would be fine if you aren't going to do anything more to it. Otherwise, get ECMLink and some injectors in the 680cc or larger range.


At 16psi, you're hitting fuel cut. You MAF sensor is reading enough airflow that the ECU cuts fuel to prevent an "overboost" condition. If you do a boost leak test and fix all the leaks, it might keep it from happening as soon, but it's still probably going to happen until you get some way to tune it.
 
Wastegate pressure is a waste of a good 16g. Should have put a 14b on there and gotten a little quicker spool out of it.



That is a big 16g. It probably has a 7cm housing on it.

As far as tuning software, it all depends on how much you eventually want to do with the car. An SAFC II and some 560cc injectors would be fine if you aren't going to do anything more to it. Otherwise, get ECMLink and some injectors in the 680cc or larger range.


At 16psi, you're hitting fuel cut. You MAF sensor is reading enough airflow that the ECU cuts fuel to prevent an "overboost" condition. If you do a boost leak test and fix all the leaks, it might keep it from happening as soon, but it's still probably going to happen until you get some way to tune it.

Well I really just looking to get it to pull past 4000 rpms LOL :banghead:
So what I am thinking is 560 cc with the apexi afc 2
Now are 560 going be enuff injector for the 16g ??


Want see what I can push it too got another motor on the stand :) that I got with the car
 
cheapest way out of this is a manual boost controller. im assuming if the previous owner had a 255 on it he would of upgraded the fuel injectors also.
 
If you connect the wastegate directly to the boost source with no controller, it should run wastegate pressure. That might be enough to keep it from hitting fuel cut.

Ya I get ya but I wont be able to have fun LOL I'll probably grab up some injectors and controller and run the crap out of it

cheapest way out of this is a manual boost controller. im assuming if the previous owner had a 255 on it he would of upgraded the fuel injectors also.

Don't know if you saw but naw he didn't upgrade the injectors after injectors and controller I going get manual boost controller and keep turning till she let's go :hellyeah:

Just want make sure I am done with the fuel cut crap :D
 
i wouldnt nessacarliy go with the cheapeest safc because there isnt that big of as price diffrence between the neo and a safc1 like 100 bucks or less if your gonna do it dont it right because you can always use it later on when your car get more modifications also its easier to sell a newer safc then it is to sell a old one that no one wants
 
i wouldnt nessacarliy go with the cheapeest safc because there isnt that big of as price diffrence between the neo and a safc1 like 100 bucks or less if your gonna do it dont it right because you can always use it later on when your car get more modifications also its easier to sell a newer safc then it is to sell a old one that no one wants

Holy run-on sentence!
Used evo 560s, 190 rewire and safc.
 
i wouldnt nessacarliy go with the cheapeest safc because there isnt that big of as price diffrence between the neo and a safc1 like 100 bucks or less if your gonna do it dont it right because you can always use it later on when your car get more modifications also its easier to sell a newer safc then it is to sell a old one that no one wants

The neo isn't really any better than the safc 1 or 2. They both have the same limitations.
 
cheapest way out of this is a manual boost controller. im assuming if the previous owner had a 255 on it he would of upgraded the fuel injectors also.

Do you realize that a manual boost controller DOES NOT allow you to go lower than wastegate spring pressure? IT only allows you to raise it past spring pressure. It would be 100 percent cheaper to just run on wastegate pressure don't you think?

My bad :)



So what controller is a good one

If you just want to run 550's get the safc1, it is the most simple to use. The only thing better about the safcII and the neo is that they have more adjustment points. That really isn't necessary. I'd buy a cheap safc1 and a cheap wideband setup before i even considered paying 200+ for a neo.
 
Ok just thought I would let yall knw what it was the guy before plugged the boost ref vac line and tapped it up and shoved another male male conector and pushed plug in dang retard just drove it ran good around 10 psi pulls good
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top