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14b turbo install help in streamwood!!!!!

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AzNWuNN

Probationary Member
16
0
Aug 7, 2002
hi,

sooo, im pretty new with any work for turbo's.. anyways, i was having someone put in my 14b in my 2g, and first off.. the install kit i got from someone wasnt complete..anyways.. the guy is working on it and puts in the new turbo.. so thats cool.. but then he tells me i dont have the coolant lines or something and he didnt want to homebrew or do anything without the perfect piece for it, so my car right now is out of commission and i just started summer school back up.. well, i dont know if he's going to finish my car up and i need my car ASAP.. i mean he said he would.. but with my luck, ppl screw me over and i just want my car back, which i hope is understable

SOOO.... if anyone is willing to drive to streamwood and finish my car, i'll be willing to pay!!
It's like 95% done he said, the turbo is in and everthing. but honestly, i dont want to finish it myself because this would be my first time with this new turbo and im REALLY paranoid about things i do with my car, so i would much rather have someone who knows what they're doing.


here are some close up pics of how its sitting in my car so far..


<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z228/jm0327/Image124.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>


<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z228/jm0327/Image123.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>


and some pieces after it got put in (minus my intake)

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z228/jm0327/Image122.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>


anyways..

so im willing to pay!!! i need this done ASAP because i can't borrow a car forever and this week is tough.. i can't move my car, obviously, i imagine this pieces to put in wont take more than half an hour total.. if you do come, please assume i have no tools at my house d/t friend borrowing it, and nothing else besides my intake in the pics.. that way, maybe you can bring some pieces just in case, because i just need my car up and running right!!


Contact:
email me : [email protected]
reply to this..

if you email me, leave you're number!!!!! that way i can call... i have class until about 3, and im looking to get this down sometime this week, ASAP. i'd be willing to meet up tonight or anything

just PLEASE someone help me!!!
 
oh, and the oil lines and what not are not hooked up either, i believe, just that ss one is, but nothing is really connected to the turbo.. the turbo is just in.. hope that makes sense to someone? sorry, as we can see, i dont know too much about what im talkin about
 
so are you missing oil lines or coolant lines, btw 14b install is not that hard at all, ive never done a turbo swap before a few months ago, im 17 and never did anything major on a car besides brakes, maintance, it took me all night to do mine. So are you missing oil lines or coolant lines, it looks like you already got your oil feed line on.
 
Unless one of the water pipes is damaged you really don't need to purchase a new one. It looks like one of your two water pipes (the one on the back side of the turbo) is already attached (you can see it above the j-pipe in the first pic). The other one can be seen at the bottom of the last picture. Fortunately it is possible to attach that one without removing the turbo. If you still have your original oil return pipe you can reuse that one. It only needs a minor modification to make it work.

You really aren't that far from having it finished up. If you have some basic tools/wrenches and a pair of jack stands for hooking your exhaust back up (I see that you have the jack) then you can do this yourself. I (and others I am sure) would be willing to walk you through it. Let us know if you want to try it.

BTW, in the first pic it looks like at least one and probably both front turbo-manifold bolts are missing. This is putting increased stress on the other one or two and you should probably get those put in before completing the rest of the install.
 
yah.. i didnt think i had much left to do.. id love any advice/walkthrough anyone has to offer.. its already jacked up and all, just chilling in my garage, and i do have some basic tools..

so if you were to tell me steps or guide me through, how would this go about? and thanks again, i appreciate the fast replies and any help given
 
It's way easier to put the lines on the turbo with the turbo disconnected. It's the 4 bolts on top, and the two bolts that connect it to the downpipe. You'll also have to unplug the o2 sensor.
 
someone left their number and came over today and finished my car.. my car is running again, but im pretty dissapointed, because i thought id feel a huge difference.. i can see that im going faster on my speedometer, but i honestly feel like im pulling ALOT slower than i did with stock..

thanks for everyone who had the quick replies, i really appreciate it!!
 
Do a boost leak test and make sure that you don't have any exhaust leaks from the exhaust manifold to turbo gasket.
 
i had someone more experienced with dsm tuning drive it and he said there is a definate leak, but we're going to be more thorough about it tomorrow i guess. well, i didnt even notive that the previous guy working on my car disconnected some lines so there were some obvious leaks, but yah, ill get it tested tomorrow.

So im changing out my fuel pump tomorrow and i hear that i can run my pretty much stock daily driver at 20 psi and i wont have any negative effects.. just getting some more opinions on if you think my engine can handle that safely, because last thing i want to do is damage it and get stuck w/o a car again..

also, an opinion on BOV's... i was thinking HKS SSQ, any thoughts? my second choice is the 1g, but yah, opinions on both would be nice.
 
i had someone more experienced with dsm tuning drive it and he said there is a definate leak, but we're going to be more thorough about it tomorrow i guess. well, i didnt even notive that the previous guy working on my car disconnected some lines so there were some obvious leaks, but yah, ill get it tested tomorrow.

So im changing out my fuel pump tomorrow and i hear that i can run my pretty much stock daily driver at 20 psi and i wont have any negative effects.. just getting some more opinions on if you think my engine can handle that safely, because last thing i want to do is damage it and get stuck w/o a car again..

also, an opinion on BOV's... i was thinking HKS SSQ, any thoughts? my second choice is the 1g, but yah, opinions on both would be nice.

No. Do NOT turn up the boost to 20 psi, unless you want more problems. You need to get your car healthy first. This includes doing a complete boost leak test and fixing every leak that you can. A stock 2g with a 14b doesn't have the fuel support for 20 psi either. At most with a stock fuel system, I would turn it to 13-14 psi.

As for BOV's, the 1g will do just fine and shouldn't leak until around 17 psi or so supposedly, but they can be modded to hold at higher pressures. It's much cheaper also compared to the HKS.
 
The difference between a T25 and a 14B is only 45cfm's @ 17psi, so I don't know what you were expecting but the 14B is meant to be an inexpensive 2G upgrade with a heap of potential. You will notice more of a difference at higher boost (<b>NOT</b> 20psi!!!) versus the T25, for sure.

Get all the leaks fixed and keep us posted!
 
Im the one working on the car and 20psi is a nice number i have done it to every talon i have worked over the past 7 years, never had a problem. I was the the fastest 14b car in this area no one came close. Spiking to 32psi with it falling off to 17psi by readline stock motor ARP's and a MLS. Everyone don't be afraid a 14b at 20psi is like 260hp to the wheels if tuned right i think the a 80,000mile 7-bolt can do that and then some.
 
You should be able, with no leaks to tell a difference after 60mph for sure. My car loves the highway a lot more then it did with the T25, although I do have the 7cm housing. A 14b is a great upgrade:thumb:
 
Im the one working on the car and 20psi is a nice number i have done it to every talon i have worked over the past 7 years, never had a problem. I was the the fastest 14b car in this area no one came close. Spiking to 32psi with it falling off to 17psi by readline stock motor ARP's and a MLS. Everyone don't be afraid a 14b at 20psi is like 260hp to the wheels if tuned right i think the a 80,000mile 7-bolt can do that and then some.

For all we know, he's completely stock besides that turbo. 20 psi is a little much for stock fuel. When I ran a log on only 14psi my injectors had a duty cycle over 100% and I was knocking.
 
right now im running about 16, spiking around 18ish.... and i just put an HKS ssq ...

anyways.. still messing with the car a bit... i took it for a test drive this morning and my engine cut off )= .. but after that, it was running fine again.. and i have a slight backfire.. so i guess i still need some adjusting
 
right now im running about 16, spiking around 18ish.... and i just put an HKS ssq ...

anyways.. still messing with the car a bit... i took it for a test drive this morning and my engine cut off )= .. but after that, it was running fine again.. and i have a slight backfire.. so i guess i still need some adjusting

Are you open venting the HKS ssq? If so, do you have the gm mas and translator?
 
update on my car.

so.. its idling pretty rough.. the guy doing my car said i was running too rich on my a/f gauge and i wanted to be about 2-3 green bars from the bottom, so he pulled some honey combs out and im right where he suggested in terms of how many green bars. hopefully the car will adjust to the rough idles pretty soon? how long does that normally take on a local driver? i hear it adjusts faster if i do highway driving more often, it just sucks reving my car up in the morning so it doesnt die out when i warm it up.

so quick thought to myself... we yanked the combs to lean my car out, and i was just thinking that a cleaner intake filter will also lean out a car, and we were doing adjusting when my filter was FILTHY.. so im wondering how it'll be when i clean it -_-;; ... you guys think ill go a bar or two or more on my a/f more towards lean? and if so, what would someone advise for my next step?

any advise would help, thanks (=


and quick story about midas about how they tried to pull a fast one on me (no questions in here about my car, just doing a little venting)...

so i dropped off my car at midas while i was at work (since i work next to one) and i bring my oil and filter for a quick change.. and i had my AC done by them last summer and now it stopped working, so i asked them to just look at it and tell me if i have anything under warrenty that i can get fixed... well.. they didnt call me for a while and i thought it was wierd because they werent busy today.. so i walk over there and they say my car is done.. and i owe 110 . .. needless to say, i was pissed.. im like, i asked you to look at it, not to do anything and call me at least before you do... he changed the price to... 50 .. still pissed, im like, i didnt ask for a recharge, or an inspection with dye.. i just wanted an oil change and if i had anything under warranty, that too.. well, anyways, at the end, i only got charged 10.. but still .. RIDICULOUS!!!
 
First, if your running rich, the only correct way to adjust that is by using some sort of device whether it be an SAFC or DSMlink, etc.

Secondly, there is no way to tell whether or not your running a little rich by usuing your a/f gauge. The closest it can read is at WOT and thats at best. The correct way is to use a wideband. You can also try a logger and when paired with an SAFC, you can make adjustments.

Third, have you done a boost leak recently? You need to make sure to use a spray bottle with some soapy water when you do test it. This could contribute to you running rich.

and Finally, cleaning your air filter will help bring in air if its really really dirty. It wouldn't make sense that a clean air filter would lean a car out because your air doesn't get metered until after the filter, right?
 
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