14B dyno record

[Nos~4G63]

You guys are all thinking too hard on this dyno sheet, its simple. The dyno started recording before he went wot.

This same exact car when it had a stock eprom a ported head, f/m, built 8.5-1 motor, crower stage 2s, ported 2g mani, full 3'', ported turbine, and 28degrees of timing advance made 270whp on like 7psi. Maybe the dyno was off.

 

[GSX_RCR]

You guys are all thinking too hard on this dyno sheet, its simple. The dyno started recording before he went wot.

This same exact car when it had a stock eprom a ported head, f/m, built 8.5-1 motor, crower stage 2s, ported 2g mani, full 3'', ported turbine, and 28degrees of timing advance made 270whp on like 7psi. Maybe the dyno was off.

This may be a freak motor, but looking at that graph, he definitely was "on it" right from the start. At 4k-4.5k, it jumped 150whp (If I'm reading the graph correctly?)

I'm thinking that motor has more compression that what we're lead to believe. Was the head milled at all?

 

[DSMu4ia]

You guys are all thinking too hard on this dyno sheet, its simple. The dyno started recording before he went wot.

This same exact car when it had a stock eprom a ported head, f/m, built 8.5-1 motor, crower stage 2s, ported 2g mani, full 3'', ported turbine, and 28degrees of timing advance made 270whp on like 7psi. Maybe the dyno was off.

It would have climbed a hell of a lot steeper than it did on a 14b with juice bro.

Dyno should have been started at like 3k or so for a 14b. Most dyno's start recording before you tramp it anyways.

 

[anomalyinva]

Even with the dyno sheet I still say it's impossible. A 14B, even ported, won't flow enough air to put down that kind of power. What kind of dyno was that on? What was the correction factor? You could make a car that puts down 100whp read as 1000 if you put in the right correction factor, it dosen't mean the car put down 1000.

 

[nazthug]

Even with the dyno sheet I still say it's impossible. A 14B, even ported, won't flow enough air to put down that kind of power. What kind of dyno was that on? What was the correction factor? You could make a car that puts down 100whp read as 1000 if you put in the right correction factor, it dosen't mean the car put down 1000.

exactly my point, regardless of whether you are the god of tuning, math is simple and never fails

THAT TURBO WILL NOT FLOW THAT MUCH AIR AT THAT PRESSURE

STOP LYING people....or stop believeing numbers that dont make sense when you get them about your cars, think logically

why is it that every other guy has to run at LEAST twice that boost to get numbers even close to that, and some special cars are making more, at 1/2 boost on a tiny little ol' turbo?

PLEASEEEEEEEE

 

[GSX0TIC]

Well I have personally seen a 14b with only these supporting mods pull 273awhp on a 93 tsi awd

Supra SMIC
255 lph
550cc
ACT 2100
SAFC
2.5" Turbo Back
K&N Filter

Stock IC and Intake Piping

273 AWHP on 93 Pump Gas....
Stock Internals and no nitrous

Back stripped out of car with open dp and it ran 12.4 on RACE GAS..his boost was over 20...like 21-22

...I saw the dyno and run with my own eyes...

Later on he ran a 12.00 with a B16g!

I never heard of anyone running high 200's to the wheels and running 12's with such low boost....a stripped out 1g awd weighing like I think he said 2700 lb range on race gas with a pretty damn good driver is running low 12s....i am not calling BS on you 14bs claiming 12s at low ass boost....but I have my doubts

 

[ArcticTsi]

and all these guys runing low 12's at over 112mph on 14b with 18psi or so, stock fuel or stock IC, wtf is your magic trick?

Why cant the next guy get a STOCK 1g gsx, raise the boost and run 12s? I barely see them getting in the 14s and 13s

U guys are all great magicians

I'm no magician and cannot vouch for any other racers out there. But I have been racing, road race, auto-x for 16-17 years and drag racing for about 7-8 years now. So I have alot of "seat" time. And "seat" time is invaluable at what ever you may do in life. I started my 1G motor on a fresh rebuild done by myself, sparing no expense when it came to fundamentals. And I will always do my own work, so that way when something fails, I have no one to blame but myself. And I have the resources to rebuild whenever need be, so I race every race like it is the last time, No holding back. The key to campaigning any successful car is weight reduction, which I have a fair amount of for a daily driver. Then utilizing the Maf-T I run my motor alot leaner than most guys would ever dream of. And the reason I do this at the track is because if I do break it, I'll just rebuild over the weekend. Most enthusiasts do not have the funds nor the resources to do this.

The artificially high trap speed on my best ever pump gas run is attributed to spinning out of the hole so hard. My Falken Ziex street tires were nearly bald at this event. Hence the 112+ trap.

Here is the vid from my 12.39 pump gas run

http://www.arctic-racing.com/media/videos/14bVsZO6.mpg

Jose Pluguez
ArcticTsi

 

[pickens]

I don't want to say I don't believe anyone....but how can a 14b hold over 20-22psi to make that kind of power. Looking at the compressor map, the amount of RPM the little compressor wheel would have to spin to feed a relatively built 2.0L engine is just insane. Here's my conclusions, so as not call anyone out a downright lie:

A) Some boost gauges are off by a few psi, (especially Autometer), hence people think they are running 21-ish psi when they are truly only running 17-18psi.

B) It is known that some dyno places and operators are inexperienced and sometimes just downright flaky. I would suggest backing up any wild numbers at another dyno.

C) Weight reduction will get any car decent 1/4 mile times. Heck, it only took a hatchback I know of 180 whp and 150ft-lb to propel it into the twelves on street tires all day. More power or less weight, just pick your route, both are great for drag racing.

 

[stage2eclipse]

ok, all this doubt about my car is wrong. 1st, the reason that the car spooled up at 4500 is because i started the dyno pull at like 4000rpms. and the reason that i started the pull at 4000 is because i get a lot of phanton knock at low rpms. and when the ecu detects a lot of knock, its gonna retard timing. no timing means no power. but it seems that the knock goes away at like 4000. and thats why i brought it up in 3rd gear to 4000 slowly and then told the guy to start recording the dyno pull. that is when i got on the throttle. trust me, i was surprised in the horsepower numbers myself but i can assure you that it is a 14b turbo. the housings were all ported and polished to maximize airflow. the exhaust wheel was also clipped. i dont know what degrees because my dad did it and i wasnt there when he pulled the turbo. so its not a stock 14b i'll tell you that, but they are the 14b wheels in there. it is one. as for the air/fuel, we got it to be pretty good on turbo w/o nitrous. like 11.9. correct me if im wrong,but to my knowledge , that is a good ratio. also, if you look at the dyno sheet the power does start dropping off after about 6200 rpms. thats another reason that you should believe me that it is a 14b. when we tried to use the nitrous, we had a hard time get the correct nitrous/fuel mixture. but we got it to make a pretty clean pull with what jets we had in at the time that we recorded that pull on the shown dyno chart. alright, you can believe me or not, but i know what my car made and i know exactly what it has done to it. peace out. mike

 

[Nos~4G63]

It shouldn't be a problem to back it up on another dyno. Next local dyno day. The video is still on the way, sorry for the delay but it proves everything.

 

[Nos~4G63]

Thank's for your patience.


http://www.spoolinawd.com/softy/softy dyno.wmv

 

[zxdude]

nice video...

 

[AMS Eric #2]

They're interchangeable?? I ran 16G's on my VR4 previously. I'm running 14B's now... I think a pair of 7cm housings would really help me a lot.

Very impressive numbers on a 14B.

I put down 488 AWHP / 483 AWTQ with a pair of 14B's spiking to 26 PSI and falling to 20 PSI (boost leak)... I ran an 11.8 @ 120.xx the next day.

I've not dyno'ed since then, but I've improved the 1/4 mile results slightly... 11.1 @ 125.70 MPH.

So I think I'm making a little over 500 AWHP. Again, really impressive numbers. Based on your numbers, it looks like I'm getting close to the limit of the 14B potential though

(Here's a pic just for shits & giggles)

What plugs and gap do you run? Just curious, we are doing some mods to a 3kgt and I rarely see someone that actually has a fast one to ask.

 

[AMS Eric #2]

Nice runs. Numbers are a bit decieving though, they are showing the dyno sheets in STD which nets about 2% more than SAE. Most dyno queens use STD as a way to get as much of a number as they can. My 449.8 SAE run shows like 468.xx on STD. Still over 400 whp either way, nice job!

 

[ryanman]

I made 302hp and 345tq on my 14b at 12psi.

2.3 stroker, ross 8.5:1's, Carillo rods, fully ported head, Crower 414 cams (stage 3's), 1mm oversize valves, Crower Ti retainers and keepers, crower valve springs, extrude honed intake mani, fully ported exh. mani, fully ported 14b, full 3" exhaust, stock sidemount (at the time, have a big FMIC now), 2G MAS w/ K&N, 660's, Hondata intake mani spacer, HKS super AFR, fidanza cam gears (degree'd), walbro 255 pump w/ 1/2" stainless lines from in tank and -8 fittings on rail, fidanza flywheel, alot of other misc crap but that's most of the motor work. I have a greddy boost gauge so I know it's accurate, I've even hooked up my autometer boost gauge and it reads the same as my greddy so I don't know WTF you guys are talking about when it comes to autometer gauges and not reading right. This was also on a dynojet dyno.

 

[DsmBoi50]

I made 302hp and 345tq on my 14b at 12psi.

2.3 stroker, ross 8.5:1's, Carillo rods, fully ported head, Crower 414 cams (stage 3's), 1mm oversize valves, Crower Ti retainers and keepers, crower valve springs, extrude honed intake mani, fully ported exh. mani, fully ported 14b, full 3" exhaust, stock sidemount (at the time, have a big FMIC now), 2G MAS w/ K&N, 660's, Hondata intake mani spacer, HKS super AFR, fidanza cam gears (degree'd), walbro 255 pump w/ 1/2" stainless lines from in tank and -8 fittings on rail, fidanza flywheel, alot of other misc crap but that's most of the motor work. I have a greddy boost gauge so I know it's accurate, I've even hooked up my autometer boost gauge and it reads the same as my greddy so I don't know WTF you guys are talking about when it comes to autometer gauges and not reading right. This was also on a dynojet dyno.

Ya my greddy gauge is right on with my autometer too.

 

[AMS Eric #2]

The autometer not reading right is NOT an urban legend here people. Ive seen many that are off. Now keep in mind Autometer sells more boost gauges than anyone so I'm sure the % of gauges that are incorrect is very very low, but they do exist.

 

[Goobdog]

My car has a 2g ported mani, 2 1/2 downpipe and a MBC, still has the stock catback. On 18psi it made 243 awhp @ 6250 232 ft lbs of torque @ 4750. With a 75 shot it made 340 awhp @ 6500 and 331 ft lbs of torque @ 5000 rpm.

 

[ryanman]

My car has a 2g ported mani, 2 1/2 downpipe and a MBC, still has the stock catback. On 18psi it made 243 awhp @ 6250 232 ft lbs of torque @ 4750. With a 75 shot it made 340 awhp @ 6500 and 331 ft lbs of torque @ 5000 rpm.

You got almost 100whp off of a 75 shot? You sure it's a 75 shot?

 

[ryanman]

The autometer not reading right is NOT an urban legend here people. Ive seen many that are off. Now keep in mind Autometer sells more boost gauges than anyone so I'm sure the % of gauges that are incorrect is very very low, but they do exist.

I've probably bought about 10-12 autometer boost gauges and never had a problem with any of them. I do know someone who did have one and the needle would sit a little low below 0 but he called autometer and told them about it and they sent him a brand new one at no charge, they also did the same with me and my EGT gauge, the needle was fluttering pretty bad and I called them and they sent me a brand new one.

 

[GSX_RCR]

You got almost 100whp off of a 75 shot? You sure it's a 75 shot?

Nitrous oxide not only delivers the additional oxygen content by chemical injection, but the cooling properties also help lower intake temperatures which can lead to more net HP than what it was originally jetted for.

 

[ryanman]

Nitrous oxide not only delivers the additional oxygen content by chemical injection, but the cooling properties also help lower intake temperatures which can lead to more net HP than what it was originally jetted for.

I know that but I haven't seen a car get that much power to the wheels off of such a small shot.

<-- not a nooB.

 

[sknydave]

75 isn't so small on a forced induction setup...

What gear was he in during the dyno?

car is sweet btw

 

[GRNDSM]

I love it how some of you guys doubting people strictly based on a “common perception”. If people would have stuck to those perceptions, we would have never had anyone attempting to run 11’s on a 14b…

My take on 14b’s is a bit different. Once you have a highly modified engine, 14B behaves much like a T-25. Regardless of what boost you set, it ALWAYS drops down to something smaller toward the upper RPM range. So you do not really have a choice, but to run a lower boost .

In my case, it would see 12-13psi by around 6500-7000 rpms, while still keeping the same power that I was making around 5k rpms and 20psi of boost.

The most I have ever made on a 14b was 305hp and I have never claimed to have top 14b hp numbers (but it takes more than dyno plots to translate into good ETs…). So if I can make 300hp at 12psi, why is that so unbelievable that Adam made 266 at 10psi?

 

[diambo4life]

Because a dyno reads power at the wheels. AWD and automatic have more drivetrain loss therefore they make less power to the ground even though they may make the same at the flywheel.

I was talking about the engine output as in crank HP. I didn't mention any WHP.


I see more people catching up on this...and people thought I was on a witchhunt. That is not possible at 10psi. I challenged the owner of the car to run the same car at that 10psi at the track (have it taped) and let me see the time on the timing boards in the video.