12V pump assisted crank case catch can.

[forcefed86]

Seeing all these nice crank case evac systems made me wonder. Even the nicest systems that use exhaust or the intake track of the turbo to pull a VAC on the crankcase don’t pull much vac. Why not leave the factory PCV with a nicer check valve inline for idle/cruise evac. Then use a small 12vdc wet/dry vacuum activated by a boost switch for WOT? Seems something like this would work well?

CHICAGO POWER TOOL Pwr Tool at West Marine

 

[Jiggalude]

I think you're money and time could be better spent on something else.

 

[ramsack]

Because ANY vacuum means the system is doing its job, even if it's -0.0000001 inHg. As long as there is not pressure in the crank case but any bit of vacuum then you are good.

 

[forcefed86]

I think you're money and time could be better spent on something else.

Fair enough, although reasons for why it wouldn't work would be appreciated?

Because ANY vacuum means the system is doing its job, even if it's -0.0000001 inHg. As long as there is not pressure in the crank case but any bit of vacuum then you are good.

I'm talking about the vacuum provided by the turbo intake/inlet. Not the crank case total pressure. I'd agree as long as you have any vac in the crank case your fine. I suppose the best route would be to measure my actual crankcase pressure first. However, my dipstick popping out every now and then tells me it's not in vac.

Otherwise the factory PCV system would be more than capable. As power and boost go up the crank case needs more vac to be evacuated properly. Also proven to be a HP saver. This is why they have engine driven evac pumps on big power engines. I'm not making any "serious" power but I'm pushing 30+psi and I think my factory PCV setup could use a boost. That being said, the above pump may not be capable of doing this. I'm just pointing out that it would provide more vacuum than the exh or inlet are providing.

 

[Talonious]

(2) -8an lines to the VC and catchcan, with a single -10an to the intake. Thats all anyone really needs.

 

[forcefed86]

Seems a $20 vacuum would be cheaper.

 

[3kgt2nv]

if your really considering putting a 20 dollar wet dry vac under the hood why not just put a vac. resvoir in the car. the 3000gt has a vacuum assist canister that is used to aid the clutch. its about 18 inches long and just stores excess vacuum pressure for the clutch when the car is off.

install one of these and hook it up to the vc inlet. when ever it sees a pressure condition it would open and equalize the pressure.

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stole the pic for a 3000gt forum about the delete of this part

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It might be better and cheaper to replace the PCV valve if your boost pressure is making it's way into the crankcase.

 

[BoostedBeater]

You could always do what the turbo mustang guys do and get an electric air injection pump. They came on tons of vehicles and you can turn them on using a hobbs switch if you wish. Thats what i'll be doing on my turbo mustang.

 

[ramsack]

If your dipstick is popping out and you're absolutely 100% positive your PCV system is functioning 100% like it should then maybe it's time to take care of the blowby. If your dipstick is popping out then your PCV system is not providing vacuum. More boost is no reason for a condition like this. Maybe it is, but it's always on an engine that's spent or has a dysfunctional PCV system.

 

[forcefed86]

if your really considering putting a 20 dollar wet dry vac under the hood why not just put a vac. resvoir in the car. the 3000gt has a vacuum assist canister that is used to aid the clutch. its about 18 inches long and just stores excess vacuum pressure for the clutch when the car is off.

install one of these and hook it up to the vc inlet. when ever it sees a pressure condition it would open and equalize the pressure.


stole the pic for a 3000gt forum about the delete of this part

Because the amount of vacuum stored in that tank would be gone in an instant. The volume of the crank case space is alot more than that cylinder. Assuming you had a large enough reservoir this would work.

It might be better and cheaper to replace the PCV valve if your boost pressure is making it's way into the crankcase.

I'm sure the factory PCV is leaking. Looks like a cheap autozone PCV valve. Like mentioned in the first post, I would be replacing that (or adding to it) with a larger check valve. But this only provides vacuum at cruise and idle.

To evac the system properly you need a good vac source at boost. The inlet of the turbo and the exhaust are the only natural sources I'm aware of for this. And I think a little $20 vacuum would out "suck" them both. That being said to get "real" HP gains you'd need alot more vacuum. The eng. driven pumps have proven 20+ whp on large cubic inch NA motors. While exhaust driven evac systems have seen 7-10 hp gains on the same large motors. I'm mainly looking to get all the nasty combustion/chemical mist slurry out of my crank case.(running e-85) I don't expect any real world HP gains. Maybe 1-2hp if I'm lucky.

And yes a vacuum cleaner under the hood sounds pretty silly to me too. But if it works, why not. It's black and and pretty small. No larger than the appropriate catch can. I'm sure I could cut off teh handle and tuck it out of the way somewhere.

You could always do what the turbo mustang guys do and get an electric air injection pump. They came on tons of vehicles and you can turn them on using a hobbs switch if you wish. Thats what i'll be doing on my turbo mustang.

I have seen those. They are pretty expensive though(even used). And don't look like they move the volume of air a vacuum would. They are designed to pull a stronger vac on a smaller sealed system, like a brake booster. Not that it wouldn't work, but for the price and my goal I think a vacuum may work better at a 10th of the price.

If your dipstick is popping out and you're absolutely 100% positive your PCV system is functioning 100% like it should then maybe it's time to take care of the blowby. If your dipstick is popping out then your PCV system is not providing vacuum. More boost is no reason for a condition like this. Maybe it is, but it's always on an engine that's spent or has a dysfunctional PCV system.

I'm sure the PCV system could use some work. That is was the reason for this post. I made a vac canister, and was thinking the intake vac source was pretty weak.

This is a new motor and the dip stick issue only happened twice. After the second time I used a small spring to hold it down.(was making a mess) It could have been some blow-by on the new rings. I did the "moto break-in" method with this build. The original vac port on teh valve cover is just a filtered hose currently, not hooked up to the turbo inlet. I think I'll give the vacuum a try, not like I'll hurt anything. And you can't argue it pulls more suction than you'll get from the inlet or the exhaust. This with the addition of a better PCV check valve should take care of my issues.

 

[forcefed86]

Ordered my mighty $20 vacuum today. Did it through walmart, no shipping costs. Once I cut off the handle and a few other things and paint the yellow portion black I don't think it will be very noticable. Can also run the exhaust portion of the vacuum down under the car to vent any additional oil mist.

It'll be ghetto fabulous!

Walmart.com: Wagan Wet and Dry Ultra Vacuum, 750: Appliances

 

[3kgt2nv]

Good luck, Hopefully the un burned fuel isnt an issue passing thru the motor area.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Wow! You're almost sure your factory pcv valve isn't up to par so get a check valve like this and call it a day.

3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Your dipstick won't pop out and you will have plenty of vacuum at idle to evacuate those vapors. At wot you won't have to worry as it will evacuate itself.

 

[eclipsh]

I'll second Gravedigger's comment. Buy a hand full of the check valves and you'll be good to go. I was in the same boat on my built 2.4 and the gems he linked to fixed it.