10w30 to 5w30 for colder months, when should we switch?

[timmy]

What month does everyone switch from 10w30 to 5w30 ? I know changing to the thinner oil is best for colder months, but being in nh it might not get really cold till december. Looking for opinions on when I should switch. I am going to do n oil change tommrow, not sure if I should go with 5w30 just yet... Thoughts?

 

[JusMX141]

Don't worry too much about the first number as it has little to no effect under normal operating temperatures.

Not entirely true. I've heard that said many, many times and I still don't buy it. If 5W30 was truly the same as 10W30 except being thinner when cold, Mitsubishi wouldn't recommend 5W30 only in climates that never exceed 60*f....nor would there be so many different 30-weight multigrades available, there would only be one. I've also known of a few instances where 5W30 caused major valve seal leakage in higher-mileage 4G63's and 10W30 did not. They're obviously different, and I'll never use thinner than the recommended 10W30.

A good summary on the topic from Donnie:

They are the same viscosity at 200* when new. The larger the difference in numbers the more viscosity modifiers are used, and the thinner the oil gets as it shears down. So, after both oils have sheared down some, the 5w-30 is thinner than the 10w-30.

Another difference is the different API certification for 5w-30 and 10w-30. They have different additive packages. All the thinner oils have been reformulated for fuel economy, and emissions.

 

[DSM1G90]

Pennzoil 10W30 right here

Just don't switch to any dino oils after running that paraffin based oil.

Agree with Justin on using 5w30 on a worn motor - 10w30 won't slide past valve seals as does 5w30 so easily.

Used to use 5w30 in my 1.8L but it really shot the blue out after sitting over night.

Now, with 10w30, just barely a bit of blue (yes, I need new valve seals in this little 200k mile motor - thing won't quit running...) on a startup.

DSM

 

[ed1380]

My winter swap is 15-40 to 10-30

 

[clipto]

20-50 all day everyday.

 

[red_devil]

Not entirely true. I've heard that said many, many times and I still don't buy it. If 5W30 was truly the same as 10W30 except being thinner when cold, Mitsubishi wouldn't recommend 5W30 only in climates that never exceed 60*f....nor would there be so many different 30-weight multigrades available, there would only be one. I've also known of a few instances where 5W30 caused major valve seal leakage in higher-mileage 4G63's and 10W30 did not. They're obviously different, and I'll never use thinner than the recommended 10W30.

A good summary on the topic from Donnie:

No I agree, why I said not 100% of the time. Oils that have VI improvers are there to help stop oil from being to thin when at operating temp. Now if these wear out then the oil will go back to what it started out as. The key is to run a true synthetic oil that will not break down over time, or change the oil before the adatives start to break down. I think most automotive manufacturers set oil recommendations slightly conservative also.

 

[DSM1G90]

Some of us have purchased new vehicles in our lifetime and in all the vehicle manuals mentions 6 months or 7500 miles - whichever comes first on an oil change.

And this is with dino oils (paraffin based oils for those who love Pennz-and you'd better stay with Pennz, or else)...but...

..they never tell you that these are all HIGHWAY miles, not combination city/highway driving along with less than two mile a day driving.

If you do the latter, then it's the mandatory 3mo/3000 miles on non synth oils for that oil is so dead and thick with carbon, hydrocarbons, water, acids with additives all gone and what have you.

Yet, there are people who pay attention to what the manual mentions and pay the consequences..like the recent stories of the 2002-2006 DODGE Sebrings with motors that suddenly freeze up .. all due to lack of oil changes and severe cases of sludge buildup that destroys the motor since the do the latter methods of combination driving.

If these owners followed common sense and did the 3 mo/3k change frequencies, their motors would still be in excellent condition.

But, common sense is getting to be a rare attribute these days to follow and appreciate.

 

[DeadlyScone]

20-50 all day everyday.

All day i think your car averages about 0mph

I use Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30. Averages above 0mph.

Iam just playing. about your car. when is it going to be fixed?

And this is with dino oils (paraffin based oils for those who love Pennz-and you'd better stay with Pennz, or else)...but...

i just have a few questions.

what is the difference between the two?
what happens if you switch to a dino oil after using paraffin type?
Dino base are usually found in what common type oils?

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

I've been using VR1 Full Synthetic 20w50.

I have a problem though;

My oil pressure drops down to 2-3 psi going off my Digital Glowshift gauge.

It usually runs around 80-83 psi on cold start, and then after I drive on the highway, and do some spirited driving it'll get as low as 2-3 psi.

I have to pick up a low pressure sensor as I think mine is broken to verify. RPM's in drive usually sit around 725-750 ish. If I put it in park the RPM's go up to roughly 900, and the oil pressure goes up to roughly 6-9 psi.

Any help is appreciated. Not trying to thread jack, or anything like that just came up off the oil type topic.

-Mike

 

[JusMX141]

^ Pressure that low would surely make the warning light come on. How low is the factory gauge while all this is going on...if you still have it hooked up?

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

@JusMX141 - That's what's making me think that either the warning sensor needs to be replaced, or my Glowshift gauge is off. Either way I don't chance it.

To be honest, since I have gotten my aftermarket gauge, I haven't bothered to check the stock gauge that often anymore. I'm about to drive home from work shortly so I'll let you know though.

Side note; Recently the head gasket went on me, and I did all the work myself. It was my first major tear down, but I'm fully confident that I did everything correctly from the HG to the timing belt (All OEM timing components) *Gates water pump, felpro composite HG along with ARP headstuds torqued correctly to 85psi* Both oil, and coolant have checked out okay since replacing everything roughly 1500 miles ago. Retorqued headstuds after 600 miles.

 

[JusMX141]

It's pretty hard to screw up a head gasket job unless you're really ignorant to cleaning gasket surfaces or timing the engine. Composite gaskets are much more forgiving to dirty, pitted, or uneven gasket surfaces....so I think you have nothing to worry about.

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

I took my time cleaning, and prepping because I didn't want to develop any bad habits early on, and I don't think I did a bad job, but I was just stating that to add additional information to possibly help diagnose my problem.

I'm just hoping it's either something to do with my gauge being off, or possibly something to do with the oil filter sandwich adapter. My temps never overheat so I can't see the oil getting so hot to thin out that much.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

i used to switch from 5w-30 to 10w-30 in the summer and winter but then upon reading some threads and books the winters here only just get to about -6 degrees C max so even 10w-30 can go down as low as -22/23 degrees C so unless your getting ultra freezing temps i would stick to 10w-30.

still change your oil though as it will still help in the winter months, i do mine before it gets cold and 6 months later when it warms up a little

 

[timmy]

Decided to stick with 10w30. On another note, some new toyotas are 0w20 every 10k miles.....yikes...

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Decided to stick with 10w30. On another note, some new toyotas are 0w20 every 10k miles.....yikes...

Ams oil guarantee their oil if you use, their filter for 15'000 miles or a year whichever comes first on our cars. It was an ams oil dealer that agreed with me and recommended 0w20. Which I know didn't say that much.but still.

If my engine gets hurt due to their oil not lubricating properly its on them.

I'm at 18k or so now and I've done about 7-8 oil changes so far. So I haven't exactly driven it to the extent of their warranty coverage.

 

[turboglenn]

I've noticed lots of newer cars call for a cold index or first number of "0"w -20/30/40

Must either be something in the bearings clearnaces, oil passages or to do with the pump but the ) number for some reason scares me, not even reltaed to just oil, but anything witha reading or rating od zero just don't sound riught