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PCV valve

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Maple guy

Probationary Member
6
0
May 6, 2026
Loudon, New Hampshire
Hey guys. I am super new to working on DSM cars! I’ve always wanted an Eclipse and I finally bought one! I have basic mechanic knowledge but when it comes down to real performance I’m pretty green. So my first question on here is I just bought this car. It was supposedly built by a reputable DSM guy. Is there any legit reason there wouldn’t be a PCV valve? The port is just capped and there is just a breather filter on the VC vent. From what I know and have read it should still have a PCV valve.

Thanks in advance for the input.

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This is your PCV valve.

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The port with the filter on it is a breather. It should be connected to the intake pipe by a hose to pull gases out of the crankcase.
 

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This is your PCV valve.

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The port with the filter on it is a breather. It should be connected to the intake pipe by a hose to pull gases out of the crankcase.
The valve is capped not open. Is it just supposed to blow the cap off if there is too much pressure buildup?
 
If I were you I would take that cap off. Check to ensure the PCV only blows air one way (out of engine). Connect a hose from it to the big nipple that is down behind the fuel rail right behind the PCV. Then, like 19eclipse90 point out, take that filter off and put the hose back from that nipple to the intake pipe.

I'm curious, do you find that your dipstick blows out of the tube? It may not since the filter is on there.
 
Ah, I didn’t notice that.

It should be connected by a hose to the intake plenum. Kinda hard to see but it does not appear that you have an original intake manifold, though, so maybe easier said than done.
 
Ah, I didn’t notice that.

It should be connected by a hose to the intake plenum. Kinda hard to see but it does not appear that you have an original intake manifold, though, so maybe easier said than done.
True dat! Which may explain the setup...19eclipse90, would he be able to connect to another intake nipple? Does it have to be that specific one that is intend for the PCV. Like if he were to t off of the brake booster line, would that work?
 
Ah, I didn’t notice that.

It should be connected by a hose to the intake plenum. Kinda hard to see but it does not appear that you have an original intake manifold, though, so maybe easier said than done.
No. It’s a Magnus intake. Not sure on what throttle body it is but there are a few ports on the top that are all capped. Is that where I should run the hose to?
 
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Here is what stock setup should look like. Disregard the green circle. I pulled this from somewhere else.
 

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If I were you I would take that cap off. Check to ensure the PCV only blows air one way (out of engine). Connect a hose from it to the big nipple that is down behind the fuel rail right behind the PCV. Then, like 19eclipse90 point out, take that filter off and put the hose back from that nipple to the intake pipe.

I'm curious, do you find that your dipstick blows out of the tube? It may not since the filter is on there.
No. I havnt had any issues with the dipstick so far. The last upgrades and dyno was 7 years ago so I’m seeing some rotted caps here and there. I’m also struggling with fluctuating afr. It was idle hunting and running lean at idle…. Around 13-13.4. I found an open port on my intercooler line where the vacuum cap deteriorated and the port was wide open. So I fixed that and now it’s running lean. Between 15.5-17. So now I’m going through all the lines to check for issues. Getting a leak test tomorrow. Hoping there is just a bad clamp somewhere. That’s how I noticed the pcv valve was capped. I ordered a vented oil catch can so I will hook that up asap and get it connected to intake.
 
Alright, my thought was that the air escaping instead of getting recycled could effect a MAF car BUUUUUT it might not. Here is a thread discussing the vented vs. sealed can setup for SD.

I guess I don't see how being SD would have any bearing on the catch can setup, but I'll bite.

Essentially, since SD system only looks at baro and iat, the catch can could somehow cause a pressure differential and throw things off. I highly doubt this though.

Catch cans should be more thought of in a "what am I doing with the car" fashion. Just because you have two massive lines to a vented can that looks pretty, doesn't mean it's right for you're car.

2 sealed cans seems like a reasonable choice for 90% of us running street/strip.

Once you start pushing higher crank case pressures, spending less time idling or DDing the car than you do with you're foot mashed to the floor, is when you might consider moving to a high flow can, capable of at least relieving pressure to near ambient levels.

Also, most race cars aren't even running an intake pipe on the turbo so you cant run a fresh air suction line to the can, and I'd bet ppl running 50+ psi aren't wanting to have a possible leak from a pcv line/valve self destructing or popping off at said pressure in the middle of a race.

The idea is to pull a vacuum on the crank case, which a stock like system is barely able to do, but better than a single, huge lined vented can.
Race cars should be running a vacuum pump of sorts to actually pull vacuum on the crank case from a proper ventilation and power production stand point. Sadly they're complicated, costly, and steal power from the engine/electrical system, as well as take up space and add weight.

Vented catch cans are more cost effective and at least keep things manageable for race teams. For daily cars, one or two sealed cans are better options. I also don't see how SD or MAF plays into it aside from my above mentioned thoughts.
 
That setup works on a race car, where you make a few passes break the engine down and put the car away. 19Eclipse90's advice is right, even that breather should be connected to the intake to pull the gases from the crankcase. If you plan to drive the car more frequently you're going to have to find a solution for the PCV. The PCV is better for removing H2o vapor from the crankcase gasses. The breather, with no negative pull on it will just allow the H2o vapor to condense and run back into the engine. Otherwise the oil in the engine turns to milk. If you haven't done so already, change the oil if you don't know how long it was run that way. What kind of leak test are you having done? Pressure test or smoke test? Smoke will show all the gremlins if they know where to expect the smoke and where it shouldn't be coming from. When I did mine the throttle body seals looked like a tea pot because they were so shot.
 
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