Yes. No reason to pull the engine to remove the head or timing covers.

One thing I'll add is to use a small magnet inside the socket to catch the retainers ! Helped alot when I did the same thing

Thank you, I just started the teardown so I'll keep that in mind I have a magnet on a stick so that should help. Now I just have to keep notes on what stuff to replace gasket gets to buy etc...

FWIW just go out and buy the valve spring compressor. I do as much work as I can on my cars and engines.

The whole 17mm and mallet thing is just dumb. Not saying it doesn’t work but stop being a cheap ass and just buy the right tool for the job.

I don’t agree with the needle noses on the lifters either as you can just grab them and pull them out with your fingers usually.

Link of a tool you should buy to not loose your keepers though your garage. https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...4qa39YyFAxV8g4kEHSr5CSAQwg8oAHoECAQQLA&adurl=

-Daniel

CKOPOCT said:

Yes. No reason to pull the engine to remove the head or timing covers.

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Question, I have most of the components removed to get to the timing cover the engine bracket has been removed it's up on blocks and I have all the bolts loose and one removed from the cover. I still am not sure how to remove that last bracket to get the plastic cover off. All the videos I have found the engine is out of the car when they're showing you how to rip crap apart which is easy it's ripping it apart inside the engine requirement that's a pain so if you have any ideas that would be greatly appreciated.

AM2SS said:

Question, I have most of the components removed to get to the timing cover the engine bracket has been removed it's up on blocks and I have all the bolts loose and one removed from the cover. I still am not sure how to remove that last bracket to get the plastic cover off. All the videos I have found the engine is out of the car when they're showing you how to rip crap apart which is easy it's ripping it apart inside the engine requirement that's a pain so if you have any ideas that would be greatly appreciated.

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Many people seem to struggle with this. Do it once and it becomes so much easier every time after. I do it now in a matter of 15 minutes with a full timing cover or 5 minutes with a faceless cover. It's hard to explain, but just pull it at the right angle. You will need to lift the passenger side of the engine - to what feels like an uncomfortable amount. Unbolt the front engine mount from the crossmember to allow extra travel. Raise the engine approximately 3 inches so this bracket will clear the strut tower valley. It will take some wiggling/maneuvering but it will slide out with proper pulling force and angle. I used to think this was one of the worst parts to remove but once you build a process, it's gravy. Be slightly aggressive but don't break anything. You'll get it done.

Thank you for the help, with that info and lifting the drivers side tire off the ground the engine and transmission could move enough to get the bracket and front timing cover off. Next I'm making the camshaft sprocket tool to hopefully get the head off and inspect the valves and piston in cyl #4. Again thank you.

You won't need that tool to move forward with the removal process. Just set the engine at TDC before removing the belt. The intake cam gear will jump forward ~5 degrees which isn't a problem. The tool is helpful to keep the gears aligned during belt installation.

Well I got the head off and cylinder number four exhaust valve has a chip missing out of it and tons of carbon buildup. So it's time to start cleaning carbon and all the other junk and then ordering parts to put it back together again

I would have the valve seats in the head checked by a machine shop. It's likely the broken chip damaged the seat before evacuating.

I'm going to pull the damaged valve then grab my large lit magnifying glass and inspect the valve seat if it's damaged I'll take it to machine shop but if it's not I'm just going to order a new valve and reseat it myself with the compounds. And procure all the parts and paint and assembly lube.. I'll need to put the beast back together

Bare minimum, still take the head to a machine shop to get resurfaced. If you want to assemble the head yourself, that's fine and I do the same myself. But at least have it checked for flatness and resurfaced. You don't want to do this twice because of the headgasket not sealing. I normally pay my machinist $20 cash to resurface a head. We've had a relationship for a decade, although I can't imagine a 10 minute job costing much at all.