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2G Keep popping 20A, Engine fusible link.

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v8s_are_slow

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,822
266
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
I have a Chilton manual but nowhere in there do I see a 20A fusible link in their wiring diagrams. Some diagrams say fusible link but not the amp. But most of them say 30A. I've tested my MPI relay and it clicks. Inspected my ecu and it appears to be good (shew!!!). I have a power probe that I borrowed from a friend but no idea how to use the dang thing. I've never touched one.

Anyway, fuel pump not turning on, no spark, Ecmlink isn't connecting. Anyone have a good wiring diagram? Possible causes? I don't know what all this fusible link powers. At $5 each, I don't care to keep popping them. I've already popped the original and two others that I purchased, and have one more that's good. Thanks to anyone that can help out. I suck at electrical. Ugghhh....
 
It is. But if I disconnect it, I won't know how to test to see if that's the issue without blowing fuses.

The front O2 is in place anyway. Not the rear.
 
check your ECU for internal damage and obviously all positive side cables and cable ends, make sure battery terminals are not hitting the hood and battery is properly bolted on
 
If the battery terminal(s) are hitting the hood, the short will be at the hood and not a fuse. That's why it would be a short: Positive to hood, hood to firewall (if negative doesn't touch hood), firewall to negative. No fuse involved.

So I don't see much in the way of 20A that would interfere with the ECU or fuel pump unless it's the anti-theft.

From my 97 FSM, these are the occurrences of a 20A on a 2Gb

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N/T seems to have a 20A for A/C as well.
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure what all this 20A fusible link powers but I no longer have front and rear wiper motors. No radio, no antenna, and speakers are out.

I have my IAC motor disconnected, TPS, front O2, PTU, the MPI relay, and even the ECU is disconnected.

This video is with all that disconnected. I'm not sure if I should be getting continuity when the power is off at certain fuses or not but made this video if this helps any. Taillights work correctly though.

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You are referring to the 20A fusible link that is green arrowed in the pic below, correct?
v8s_are_slow said:
Anyway, fuel pump not turning on, no spark, Ecmlink isn't connecting.
Click to expand...
It's because ECU loses the power source if you blow that 20A fusible link. That 20A fusible link supplies the power to ECU through MPI relay.

I would check for a short first by tracing the wire from that fusible link terminal to MPI relay and ECU. Perhaps you have damaged or burnt part on the wire and grounded.
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DSMPT said:
You are referring to the 20A fusible link that is green arrowed in the pic below, correct?

It's because ECU loses the power source if you blow that 20A fusible link. That 20A fusible link supplies the power to ECU through MPI relay.

I would check for a short first by tracing the wire from that fusible link terminal to MPI relay and ECU. Perhaps you have damaged or burnt part on the wire and grounded.
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Click to expand...
Yes sir, that's the one. Just have to figure out the wiring but guess I'll be working on it.
 
Well, I'm trying to check anyway. But don't know which wires to check for. I don't have a proper wiring diagram I don't believe, unless one of the ones listed above would be it.

I did hook one lead from my meter to the positive side of where the 20a would go. Checked all 8 wires at the mpi and no continuity with any of them.
 
v8s_are_slow said:
Well, I'm trying to check anyway. But don't know which wires to check for. I don't have a proper wiring diagram I don't believe, unless one of the ones listed above would be it.

I did hook one lead from my meter to the positive side of where the 20a would go. Checked all 8 wires at the mpi and no continuity with any of them.
Click to expand...

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Mind telling me what color wires I'm looking at please? I'm not the greatest at reading these.
 
Sorry, Find Text didn't work on that particular 20A

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#4 here
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and it continues on for pages. Best bet is to get the 1997-1999 FSM and start on page 128
@steve has some links here, https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/download-a-2g-service-manual.324090/post-151989574. signup with a throwaway gmail or something

v8s_are_slow said:
Mind telling me what color wires I'm looking at please? I'm not the greatest at reading these.
Click to expand...


R - red body
B - black stripe
the other one might be L which is blue

so Red-Black, Red-Blue

Also may be of help

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v8s_are_slow said:
Mind telling me what color wires I'm looking at please? I'm not the greatest at reading these.
Click to expand...
The 20A fusible link that you keep blowing is the fusible link #4, and please refer the color code chart below.
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Oh that's a much better scan than the earlier ones, you can actually red the second wire's colour code. They're both Red wire with Black stripe.
 
v8s_are_slow said:
I'm not sure what all this 20A fusible link powers but I no longer have front and rear wiper motors. No radio, no antenna, and speakers are out.

I have my IAC motor disconnected, TPS, front O2, PTU, the MPI relay, and even the ECU is disconnected.

This video is with all that disconnected. I'm not sure if I should be getting continuity when the power is off at certain fuses or not but made this video if this helps any. Taillights work correctly though.

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Click to expand...
I watched the whole video now and I think that there is a short in somewhere between battery and that 20A fusible link terminal in the relay box. (Or maybe you wired something improperly.)
In the video, you have a conductivity with the terminal for the 20A fusible link by grounding (The one in the pic below). I don't know how you exactly wired with the kill switch but that terminal must not have a conductivity with the ground. That terminal should have only the 12v from battery.
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I'm gonna check it out more tomorrow. I just haven't been in the mood today. It's basically a revolving door of problems. Fix one problem, another pops up and can't drive the dang car. I'll post back up when I have some results though I guess.
 
I FINALLY figured this crap out. I apparently had the crank sensor wiring pinched between the cylinder head and my intake manifold. Shew!!! Now I can repair it and move on!!! Thanks y'all!!!

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Yeah you had a short in battery side of the 20A fusible link. Should double check that you have no conductivity to the ground with the terminals of 20A fusible link. If you see no conductivity on both terminal, you have fixed it.
 
I honestly don't know what you mean when you say conductivity. You mean like continuity?

Had to go to my local salvage yard and get a pigtail to wire in. Out at the beach with parents and my kids for dinner but probably tackle this later tonight or in the morning. 🤞
 
v8s_are_slow said:
I honestly don't know what you mean when you say conductivity. You mean like continuity?
Click to expand...
Yes.

What I meant in the post from last night is, the video is actually showing the issue.

In this moment in the video (the screenshot below), when you touch that terminal with the positive probe (the negative probe was grounded), the multimeter was beeping.
It shouldn't have beeped. The multimeter should have beeped only if the negative probe was touched to the battery positive.
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I have it back together and can mark this thread as resolved. It runs now. Fired right up. Was definitely a pain (because I suck at electrical) but it's good now. Thanks again y'all.

P.S. I'll be referring back to this one a lot I'm sure, for the diagrams and such when it's needed. So this one will be very valuable to me personally.
 
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