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Your current car's weight???

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tsirider13

15+ Year Contributor
103
0
Nov 2, 2005
toronto,
Hey guys i will be putting my car on a diet.
But i was wondering, out of the almost 3200lbs (2G)how lighter have you guys made yor car.

Please post you car's current weight, model and what are the most notable weight savings.

Thanks,

-Manuel
 
A tad under 2900 with me in it. I weight 150lbs.
This probably wont help you though seeing you have a 2g.
1st gen are lighter to begin with, especially the Laser's.

Some people will just guess what there car weighs and it will be usually heavier than their estimates.
 

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59- 41 is my horrible weight bias also ^ LOL.

A carbon fiber hood would actually help a lot in weight bias I think showing how heavy the front is.
It also lowers the center of gravity I believe.

Oh well screw weight balance, I just want to be light as possible.
I plan on gutting another 100lbs out of this thing before Im done with it.
( While still keeping heat, full dash and passenger seat and interior panels for example.)

OP, You should change this thread to being a poll, so that people can vote for what range their vehicle weight is in so you can have a easier way to see what the general dsm'er's vehicle weighs...

Im willing to bet the average AWD 2g is a good 200-300lbs over 3k with driver, and the average AWD 1g is right around if not slightly more than 3k with driver.
 
It’s been a long process but my AWD 1996 Talon is currently at 2880 pounds with a full tank of gas. Most recently I removed all the air conditioning related components under the dash and that was 38 pounds. So far it was the easily removable items (seats & spare tire) that made the most difference.
 
i'll weigh mine in a couple weeks when its back on the road. ive stripped the whole inside of everything besides the heatercore and front seats. no sound deadening or plastics or anything else.

also, corner balancing is alot more important then just less weight in general, because the car wont be neutral through corners...like, if your in a slide, and its 50/50, it'll slide out and come back easy. but if you have too much weight in the front it'll understeer (DSM = understeer king) and if you have too much weight in the back, such as a MR car like an elise, when you get sideways it can be twitchy and you can get snap oversteer.
 
Thats another reason I put the battery to the hatch, and I didnt remove my back bumper bar, I only pulled the front one. The weight bias was still horrible though, if you think these cars are already nose heavy to begin with, and more than half of your weight reduction comes from the rear of the car.
 
My fwd 1g laser weighs in at 2650 without me in it and with a half tank of gas.
 
Just to be a wise ass

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EVO MR with full fuel and a trunk full of weekend stuff. Lots of ice build up. This was on the rally scales for snodrift.

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My honda CRX full tank of gas me in the car. just the tool kit out of the car and crush beams.

B16 turbo.

1988 CRX HF
 

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Ive been considering going manual rack and pulling all the heater boxes and stuff out under the dash, and also removing the thick padding from the firewall ( I didnt get to that yet nor the sound deadner on the fireall.)
Between all of that right there I can drop about 60lbs... I just dont know if I want to remove heat
(not that I need it often in FL though there are winter nights we get 30-40degs)
but just one of those things that help keep the car feeling like a car.
Im pretty sure when this thing isnt a daily anymore Ill rip those out and even go farther.
I mightve said this before but my goal is 2800 with me in it plus a cage...
 
I've been thinking stripping the interior down, but I always talk myself out of it. Losing all those creature comforts doesn't justify the little bit of weight I'd save in my opinion.

Keeping it a street car is very important to me.
 
If you want to hit sub 2700 lbs on an AWD DSM you'll have to strip out just about everything, including the heater and you'll probably need lexan. If you go with a full cage, you'll be adding a good 100-125 lbs. I think my car is a hair under 2800 lbs right now without me in it, no cage, CF hood, no A/C or heater, and really stripped. I have a CF hatch with Lexan sitting in the garage that I need to throw on, and I can still swap in some other lightweight parts, but I'm not sure that's going to offset the rear roll bar (4-6 point cage) I'll end up putting in. I think my goal now is to have the car at around 2850-2900 lbs with me in it and still have it somewhat streetable.

It's tough to make an AWD car light and still keep it streetable. There's a lot of compromise.
 
If you want to hit sub 2700 lbs on an AWD DSM you'll have to strip out just about everything, including the heater and you'll probably need lexan. If you go with a full cage, you'll be adding a good 100-125 lbs. I think my car is a hair under 2800 lbs right now without me in it, no cage, CF hood, no A/C or heater, and really stripped. I have a CF hatch with Lexan sitting in the garage that I need to throw on, and I can still swap in some other lightweight parts, but I'm not sure that's going to offset the rear roll bar (4-6 point cage) I'll end up putting in. I think my goal now is to have the car at around 2850-2900 lbs with me in it and still have it somewhat streetable.

It's tough to make an AWD car light and still keep it streetable. There's a lot of compromise.

Since you road race, how do you feel about your weight balance getting worse by taking more out of the rear with like the carbon fiber hatch and lighter windows?
Or do you feel less weight is more important?

I am looking at the same goals, 2800 with me in it with cage.
I didnt think the cage would add so much weight though, I was thinking more of 70-80lbs not 125lbs..... But I guess it would depend on which cage you have also.
 
Since you road race, how do you feel about your weight balance getting worse by taking more out of the rear with like the carbon fiber hatch and lighter windows?
Or do you feel less weight is more important?

I am looking at the same goals, 2800 with me in it with cage.
I didnt think the cage would add so much weight though, I was thinking more of 70-80lbs not 125lbs..... But I guess it would depend on which cage you have also.
The weight I'll be taking out with the lighter hatch/glass will be made up for by the roll bar I put in easily. A back-half roll bar will likely be at least 75 lbs, no matter what type you get. A full cage that's any good will be at least 100 lbs.

The front bias isn't ideal, but I still prefer the car to be lighter so that it's easier on tires and brakes - the more track time I can get on a set of tires these days, the better. I will probably see a little more understeer but a lighter car has a lot of other benefits that are tough to ignore. You sacrifice one thing for something else.

I'll be fighting understeer no matter what since the car is AWD and the nature of the suspension design. A little bit more won't hurt much. I'll work to offset that more by using solid bushings eventually and some other suspension tuning and modification. Not to mention the roll bar should stiffen things up quite a bit.
 
I'm trying to get a set of scales to get my final race weight so I can't comment on that right now...

As far as weight bias, you're always better off being as light as possible, no matter the weight bias. The other advantage of this is that lots of weight classes have minimum weights or as in my class, a weight to horsepower ratio. If you are under, you can add ballast wherever you need it, and as low as possible rather than just anywhere it happens to be.

I'm hoping to be at about 2600lbs chassis, w/fuel... Definitely possible, but I'm not sure.
 
So most of the weight on these cars are drivetrain, motor, suspension, and with the weight reduction some of you guys have done the interior and chasis probably arent that much.
And I agree about getting it as light possible despite weight bias.

I am going to set up to manual rack in the future, and I still have a little sound deadning I could scrape off behind the dash if I wanted to be more tedious, but Ive already done ALL the stuff you can do in lightening up the car short of cutting out metal out of the chasis or removing needed daily driving interior parts/equipment...

Though, I have been contemplating a lot lately whether I should remove all the heating stuff under the dash... I dont have A/C and can live w/o, but its kind of nice peace of mind to have that heating there, because it actually does get cold enough here to need it, especially when its 70 in the day time winter, and suddenly 40-50degs at night with wind, and when your not dressed for it, it sure can get pretty chilly, and early mourning late night even really cold... Idk yet if I should remove it. Does anyone know how much weight exactly that drops?
 
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