wtf just happened to my car??? Please help

[bsbllfit7]

ok so I was just driving my car and all of a sudden it started shaking violently when in gear. It wasn't all the time just quite often. It felt like it was missing heacily when the problem was happening. At one point I could hear backfires coming from my exhaust. I turned the car off and on and it fires right up and idles wonderfully at 700 rpms with the same amount of vac as before. I then gave it a few revs and I hear a rattling coming from the engine bay. It wasn't all the time just when it was revved up and for a certain time. Not the WHOLE time it was being revved. When it was mising on the highway the tachometer needle would jump every time. Like about 500 rpm jumps when it missed. What the hell could this be? Could it be a bad cool not sendin the signal at all times? Bad transmission? I don't understand why it would be ratteling even if it was a cool or ignition related omponent. Please help and I'll be so grateful.

 

[bsbllfit7]

ok so i bought a transistor and coil pack off a guy on the forums, fixed my missfire at normal operating temperature, the klick klacking is still there and i think it is the lifters, but now there is a new issue, when i am getting into boost i have almost no power, what could cause that.

and oil pressure sits directly at halfway mark at startup and goes slightly lower when warm, but when driving sits at halfway or just slightly above

also could phantom knock from the lifter knock be causing my engine to pull timing and not allow me to get the right amount of power like i should?

ok so i have an other video, this one is at initial startup, the ticking is really bad but when i rev it it begins to go away, as the car warms up it goes away more but is still definitely there, i am almost positive this is the lifters, but what im wondering is if this is so loud that it is setting off the knock sensor and pulling timing hence my lack of power under boost.
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and here is one after the car had been on running for awhile
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[bsbllfit7]

so i ended up doing an oil change, o flecks of anything were seen in oil or oil filter. Very clean oil. I went ahead and removed lifters. Tried cleaning them by using a paper clip, actually it was a safety pen. I was able to depress and remove oil from 10 of the 16. The other 6 the pen would not go in very far. Also i am not able to compress the 6 AT ALL by hand.

 

[talon187]

time for 3g lifters

 

[bsbllfit7]

thats the plan, can lifters really make that loud of a noise though???

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Alright so I forgot to let the engine warm up before I did the compression test. Went back and did it today came up as 170 on all four cylinders. What to test for now?

tried switching out the plug wires today and same thing happens. The car runs magnificently until the engine gets warm and reaches normal operating temperature. Anyone with any information that could help me out?

alright would it be better to go coil on plug setup or go and get new coils. I mean it is 180 for the two coils and idk how much cop's go for but it seems easier!

I had a truck that acted similar, it would run perfect until it got good and warm and then it would start missing really badly and then eventually die. It was an ignition problem with my distributor so like everyone is saying check that ignition system over and test all of it the best that you can.

 

[talon187]

yes the lifters can be really really loud when they go bad

 

[bsbllfit7]

replaced the transistor and coil packs and the misfire went away, then i was stuck with just the knocking problem and it was loud enough that the knock sensor was picking it up and retarding the timing limiting the amount of power i was feeling, good to know that lifters can be that loud when they go bad.

 

[97 Talon Esi]

Check all the stuff stated above but i recently had the same problem on my car. I purchased a new set of wires an plugs an the trouble went away for a little while but ended up coming back, but to make a long story short my wires were the problem they were actually starting to seperate at the boots. I ended up spending the 81 dollars for NGK replacements an never had a problem again. If you have cheap wires i would recommend paying the little extra for a good set of NGK's

 

[bsbllfit7]

as stated above the misfiring is GONE, now i am left with the lifters making incredible noises.

 

[97 Talon Esi]

Haa sorry about that. What oil are you running in the vehicle?

 

[bsbllfit7]

10w30 mobil 1

 

[dsmtnr]

Maybe balance shaft??? If you have them still...

I had this exact problem with my 1G. I had found that the rear balance shaft jumped a tooth. I'd pull your timing cover and check your balance shafts.

 

[97 Talon Esi]

Wow i just saw your video thats one hell of a tick i think it is time to do a valve job on your car. Adding additives to your oil or anything else is just gonna put a band-aid on it. Good luck, IMO its not that challenging to replace.

 

[bsbllfit7]

head was redone at 80k because of bent valves, lifters were reused so thats the weak link. Everything else is perfect, doesnt burn oil and holds 170 compression on all 4

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

Pull the timing cover off. Might be the tensioner, Oil pump bolts, etc... Check the flywheel bolts too.

 

[bsbllfit7]

its coming from right under the valvecover checked the timing belt and everything there is good, timing is set properly

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

its coming from right under the valvecover checked the timing belt and everything there is good, timing is set properly

That sound is a bad sound. I would not start it again until you have found the problem. I did not hear a miss in the video, I did however hear metal clanking together, Whether it is coming from the valvetrain, Timing belt/Pullies, Balance shafts, Flywheel bolts, Whatever it is. It is a bad sound.

 

[bsbllfit7]

pulled lifters today and am going to order new ones. It was definitely coming from the valvetrain, the flywheel bolts would change in sound when i push in the clutch, with this that doesnt happen. also i changed the oil and the sound was less apparent but was still there. Im almost positive its the lifters. Pulleys would come from the right side of the engine, this is not, its also coming from the top for sure, not from the bottom half of the engine.

 

[bsbllfit7]

so i got the lifters in and worked on the car today, on the initial start-up there was no knocking sound, its actually more like a loud tapping sound. The lifters dont seem to be the culprit. Im thinking it is a broken CAS as i have done the 1g CAS swap and it is right where the noise is coming from. I used a stethoscope and it appears to be the loudest right above the CAS on the valve cover. Anyone ever heard of a loud CAS. Also the drivability is crappy too, doesn't seem to be getting enough fuel.

damn this problem is giving me the run around. It is definitely not a bearing of any kind. It is head related and is isolated to right above the CAS on the valve cover. I'm thinking it is the CAS but want to know if anyone has ever heard of a CAS making loud noises when bad

 

[bsbllfit7]

alright so i started up the engine today and was doing the stethoscope test some more, i gave it a slight rev maybe to 2 or 3 k rpm a few times. Just trying to pinpoint the problem. Well anyway when i did this the last time(go figure) the knock got louder and then the motor seized! It no longer starts. When i try and turn the engine over by hand with two ratchets i can move iit a few degrees one way then it seizes, then back a few degrees the other way then it seizes again. My question is did i throw a rod or did my starter brake somehow and seize the car up.

 

[EclipticalGS]

I hope those 5-6 lifters you couldn't push down didnt bend anything but you said you did a compresion test...How about a leakdown?

Your flywheel could have came off, cams couldve seized, you just have to start checking.

If you cant turn anything by hand, drop your transmission, then if theres no problems there, take your timing belt off and try to slightly twist your cams (not too far to bend shit) but to see if they are seized, then slightly twist crank, if thats fine, your balance shafts could be seized.

You just have to start digging in man, take off your accesory belts see if everything spins properly.

Good luck man, your videos sounded like dead ass lifters, but youve replaced those.

I would start with droping the oil pan, twisting the cams with the timing belt on (they should twist a bit still)
then drop the t-case and drain your tranny...(Does the noise go away when clutch is pushed in?), then pull the timing belt..etc

 

[bsbllfit7]

ya i replaced all of the lifters. The car started up and had the same sound same place, i was just blipping the throttle as i listened with the stethoscope then it got louder for like 2 seconds then it just seized completely. I tried turning by hand at the camshaft pulleys and nothing would budge! The flywheel wpuldnt just come off like that, i would have had clutch issues with it or the problem would change when i push in the clutch pedal. Nothing like this was present at all.

 

[EclipticalGS]

if you cant turn your cam gears by hand even with the timing belt on, take your cas off and try again, its possible you cas seized i guess, if not that take your valve cover off and undo the cam cap bolts, then see again.

Take the cas off first though, its possible it could have complete stopped the intake cam from moving.

 

[bsbllfit7]

really its actually possible for the CAS to seize and stop the engine from moving?

 

[Kris_TM]

You really should listen to the people trying to help. Quite a few people said to pull the pan and inspect the bottom end. And you ignored it. Now your motor is seized up.

You fixed an ignition issue, which is completely pointless when your motor was knocking. And continued to drive it with it still knocking. Not the smartest thing to do.

I will say this again. Pull the pan and see whats going on. Also pull the spark plugs and see if any of them are messed up. And look down the hole into the cylinders and see if you see anything abnormal.