4gfun
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- Dec 10, 2007
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Ask Me,
Virginia
REV 1.2
I'd like to give something back to the community and provide you all with a writeup on how to remove the cylinder head on a 1g. It seems that this information is lacking overall. Someone here did a writeup and it was the only guide that I could find so I have edited it to entail my own experiences. Please feel free to amend or argue anything within so that the job can be done better or more effectively.
Thank you!
***Make sure that you have pen and paper around for additional note taking during the process, write with that big old sharpie and come back to your project in a few months and see if you can read your own handwriting.***
***Use lots of ziploc bags (or whatever) and label EVERYTHING***
0.0) Try to get line up PS bolt holes in pulley before starting so that you can reach the bolts holding it on the front.
0) Loosen lugnuts on driver's side wheel but do not remove the lugnuts.
1) Jack front of car up.
2) Drain coolant via radiator petcock. (Perform step 3 while radiator is draining).
3) REMOVE battery & it's foundation.
4) Pull the radiator (4 easy bolts right on top) & a couple of fan connectors along with coolant temp sensor connector at the bottom of the radiator. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses at radiator. Expect some additional coolant to come out after draining coolant but not a huge waterfall like other vehicles.
4.5 Disconnect power steering line nut from motor mount. Remove power steering line from power steering pump. The "eye" came out pretty easy in my case by wiggling side to side and using a prybar at 2 o'clock when facing the engine. You will lose some fluid. Try to have some newspaper ready to cover the alternator. A pan below will be helpful as well.
5) Remove driver's side motor mount. (Put jack under the oil pan, use slight pressure to not damage the pan and use a piece of wood (2 x 4) to distribute the load) ****Research knows that supporting the engine after removing the motor mount is not necessary since other mounts hold the motor****This will depend on how many mounts you have removed though.**** Remove all nuts and bolts to motor mount. Bang out the long stud towards the direction of the radiator. Use a prybar to pry up on the motor mount to get it out. Remove the bolt going to the power steering pump line above the mount and unbolt the pump line from the mount then swing the line aside. Put a plastic bag around the line and keep it up high and away to reduce leaks.
6) Remove the power steering pump, toss in a bag for neatness if you'd like. Remove back bolt by jamming 2 14mm wrenches together if needed. If you can't get at the 2 front bolts, be prepared to cut the belt. You can turn the crank (clockwise only) if needed to get to the bolts if needed. ****This step takes me quite some time, if someone would like to chime in and let me know how I can make the PS Pump removal faster I'd appreciate it.****I ended up using the smallest 14mm socket on a 3/8 ratchet I could find on the front bolts followed by a 1/4 ratchet, followed by an open end wrench. Be sure to remove the wire and the rubber hose going to the pump.
7) Remove driver's side front tire & the shields behind it for access to lower crankshaft area.
8) Loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley and the crank pulley. ***Not sure if this is 100% necessary, but until I can prove otherwise I'll do it.*** 10mm bolts on the water pump and easy to remove..spin by hand to get access to each bolt. 12mm bolts on the crank pulley. Use a breaker bar in the center to keep it still.
9) Loosen the alternator and remove the belt.
10) Remove crank pulley, water pump pulley (seems that there are 2 water pulleys that come out so take note of direction), ac bracket (just remove the 3 horizontal bolts and leave the other bolts alone....there are 2 grade 7 12mm bolts on the firewall side and I found a cheapo bolt with a phillips head on the bolt to the radiator side....removed all with open end wrench).
11) Remove all Timing belt covers & all it's hidden fasteners. ***If I recall correctly, one bolt around the center of the cover is VERY hard to get at, hope to document next time.*** EDIT...I for the life of me can't figure out how to get the timing cover bolt behind the water pump out easily. Snapped the cover trying to figure it out. Per Donniekak "...Shallow 1/4" drive 10mm socket on a short wobble extension." It seems that all the T-belt cover bolts are different sizes. I did not take the time to measure. Guess I'll be looking back at the FSM later.
12) Remove the bolts from all the pulleys on the front case except the rear small pulley that drives the oil pump. ***Why not just loosen and remove...if necessary at all?***
Would probably be a good idea to have a picture of the front case handy so that you are not just removing bolts willy nilly. ****I just loosened the bolts for the tensioner pulley and idler pulley since the original author mentioned removing pulley bolts not bolts of any other type. I am not sure, but I don't believe that I removed the pulleys completely****
As of now, refer to post 42 here for what tensioners, pulleys etc. go to the front case:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/balance-shaft-removal-with-engine-still-in-car.466655/page-2
UPDATE: Maybe you just loosen that stuff as opposed to removing it if you are not planning on doing a T-Belt change....or possibly don't even touch it at all?
13) Use an impact to remove the crank pulley bolt and washer.
14) Remove the 2 bolts at the exhaust flange downpipe downstream of The turbo
15) Remove the intake hose (Can to turbo and IC to TB).
16) Leave Thermostat housing on head if you don't want to buy a gasket. Disconnect it with all hoses attached. You are always free to remove the thermostat housing later to clean up.
17) Disconnect the CPS, TPS, ISC, Knock Sensor, EGR stuff, ground at rear of IM. Note that there are 3 electrical connectors to the TB. Remove them all.
18) Remove the fuel injector rail with it's injectors. Remove vacuum line to injector rail and fuel line.
19) Remove the Spark plug wires.
20) Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables (just snap out of their holders) Don't forget 2 remove the 2 bolts holding the cable.
21) Start unplugging the wiring harness that goes across the intake (in *black* square covering) it plugs into the o2 sensor, water neck, injectors, throttle position sensor, idle control motor, closed throttle switch, knock sensor, ac compressor, and ignition coils and igniters (should already be unplugged from previous steps) Remove transistor connection. Remove the bolts for the black plastic wire shield above the injector area. Disconnect BOV vacuum line. Slip O2 harness from bracket to the passenger side.
22) Remove both fuel lines and fuel feed line from the fuel rail. Be ready with a rag. ***Remember brake booster at IM***and hard to miss vacuum line between intake manifold and valve cover.
23) Put crank pulley bolt and washer back on.
24) Pull the spark plugs, find TDC #1 cyl, place a long screw driver or 1/4 extension in the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine approx. 90*, so all pistons are at mid stroke.
25) Slip the timing belt off by removing the idler pulley (pulley next to the water pump). ***I found removal of the idler pulley was not needed, just slipped off with relative ease***
25.5) Pull the balance belt off if there is one.
26) Also remove the brace along the back of the engine block that holds up the intake. If you cant get it off, at least remove the Bolts that are on the INTAKE, if the ones on the block are pulled out, you still will have a bi*** of a time removing the head. It's much easier to get to the couple of bolts on the intake manifold bracket from the passenger side. ****This only applies if the person left the bracket on****
27) Don't take the exhaust manifold off either, just unbolt the turbo (4 bolts) (unbolt just the turbo from the ex-man). Remove the bolts and nut that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold.
28) Disconnect the coolant line from the firewall to the thermostat water neck
29) Disconnect the coolant feed line and return line from the turbo (disconnect the big line fed from the hard coolant crossover pipe at the turbo, disconnect the small line at the rubber hose fed from the water neck, disconnect the coolant to oil cooler line on the water neck, disconnect oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan, but you can probably leave the turbo oil feed line connected to the turbo.
30) Remove valve cover and then remove the bolts that hold the head on. Make sure you untorque them in small steps and in the opposite order of the torque down procedure. This is best done with a 10MM 1/2inch drive IMPACT SOCKET. The Hex's in the middle are freeze plugs, they stay in. The head is sealed really well, and is stuck on the gasket.
Removal order of head bolts or ARP head studs.
4 6 9 7 1
2 8 10 5 3
front of car.
**This SHOULD be everything that holds the head on. Now is the time to do a once over check of everything. Look on all 4 sides of the head for anything that isn't unhooked and take appropriate unhooking measures. ** ***Check lines to throttle body and thermostat and make sure disconnected***
31) Pull head by putting a crowbar thru the exhaust manifold webs & pulling down - it levered the head loose from gasket suction quite easily. Then go from end to end of head & place wooden blocks under each end until head was almost clear of Turbo Stud. Lay a fender cover over where the radiator is, leaned over the front & pick it up.
32) Make sure to set the cylinder head on a piece of cardboard or doubled over towel.
33) Drain oil and filter.
I'd like to give something back to the community and provide you all with a writeup on how to remove the cylinder head on a 1g. It seems that this information is lacking overall. Someone here did a writeup and it was the only guide that I could find so I have edited it to entail my own experiences. Please feel free to amend or argue anything within so that the job can be done better or more effectively.
Thank you!
***Make sure that you have pen and paper around for additional note taking during the process, write with that big old sharpie and come back to your project in a few months and see if you can read your own handwriting.***
***Use lots of ziploc bags (or whatever) and label EVERYTHING***
0.0) Try to get line up PS bolt holes in pulley before starting so that you can reach the bolts holding it on the front.
0) Loosen lugnuts on driver's side wheel but do not remove the lugnuts.
1) Jack front of car up.
2) Drain coolant via radiator petcock. (Perform step 3 while radiator is draining).
3) REMOVE battery & it's foundation.
4) Pull the radiator (4 easy bolts right on top) & a couple of fan connectors along with coolant temp sensor connector at the bottom of the radiator. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses at radiator. Expect some additional coolant to come out after draining coolant but not a huge waterfall like other vehicles.
4.5 Disconnect power steering line nut from motor mount. Remove power steering line from power steering pump. The "eye" came out pretty easy in my case by wiggling side to side and using a prybar at 2 o'clock when facing the engine. You will lose some fluid. Try to have some newspaper ready to cover the alternator. A pan below will be helpful as well.
5) Remove driver's side motor mount. (Put jack under the oil pan, use slight pressure to not damage the pan and use a piece of wood (2 x 4) to distribute the load) ****Research knows that supporting the engine after removing the motor mount is not necessary since other mounts hold the motor****This will depend on how many mounts you have removed though.**** Remove all nuts and bolts to motor mount. Bang out the long stud towards the direction of the radiator. Use a prybar to pry up on the motor mount to get it out. Remove the bolt going to the power steering pump line above the mount and unbolt the pump line from the mount then swing the line aside. Put a plastic bag around the line and keep it up high and away to reduce leaks.
6) Remove the power steering pump, toss in a bag for neatness if you'd like. Remove back bolt by jamming 2 14mm wrenches together if needed. If you can't get at the 2 front bolts, be prepared to cut the belt. You can turn the crank (clockwise only) if needed to get to the bolts if needed. ****This step takes me quite some time, if someone would like to chime in and let me know how I can make the PS Pump removal faster I'd appreciate it.****I ended up using the smallest 14mm socket on a 3/8 ratchet I could find on the front bolts followed by a 1/4 ratchet, followed by an open end wrench. Be sure to remove the wire and the rubber hose going to the pump.
7) Remove driver's side front tire & the shields behind it for access to lower crankshaft area.
8) Loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley and the crank pulley. ***Not sure if this is 100% necessary, but until I can prove otherwise I'll do it.*** 10mm bolts on the water pump and easy to remove..spin by hand to get access to each bolt. 12mm bolts on the crank pulley. Use a breaker bar in the center to keep it still.
9) Loosen the alternator and remove the belt.
10) Remove crank pulley, water pump pulley (seems that there are 2 water pulleys that come out so take note of direction), ac bracket (just remove the 3 horizontal bolts and leave the other bolts alone....there are 2 grade 7 12mm bolts on the firewall side and I found a cheapo bolt with a phillips head on the bolt to the radiator side....removed all with open end wrench).
11) Remove all Timing belt covers & all it's hidden fasteners. ***If I recall correctly, one bolt around the center of the cover is VERY hard to get at, hope to document next time.*** EDIT...I for the life of me can't figure out how to get the timing cover bolt behind the water pump out easily. Snapped the cover trying to figure it out. Per Donniekak "...Shallow 1/4" drive 10mm socket on a short wobble extension." It seems that all the T-belt cover bolts are different sizes. I did not take the time to measure. Guess I'll be looking back at the FSM later.
12) Remove the bolts from all the pulleys on the front case except the rear small pulley that drives the oil pump. ***Why not just loosen and remove...if necessary at all?***
Would probably be a good idea to have a picture of the front case handy so that you are not just removing bolts willy nilly. ****I just loosened the bolts for the tensioner pulley and idler pulley since the original author mentioned removing pulley bolts not bolts of any other type. I am not sure, but I don't believe that I removed the pulleys completely****
As of now, refer to post 42 here for what tensioners, pulleys etc. go to the front case:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/balance-shaft-removal-with-engine-still-in-car.466655/page-2
UPDATE: Maybe you just loosen that stuff as opposed to removing it if you are not planning on doing a T-Belt change....or possibly don't even touch it at all?
13) Use an impact to remove the crank pulley bolt and washer.
14) Remove the 2 bolts at the exhaust flange downpipe downstream of The turbo
15) Remove the intake hose (Can to turbo and IC to TB).
16) Leave Thermostat housing on head if you don't want to buy a gasket. Disconnect it with all hoses attached. You are always free to remove the thermostat housing later to clean up.
17) Disconnect the CPS, TPS, ISC, Knock Sensor, EGR stuff, ground at rear of IM. Note that there are 3 electrical connectors to the TB. Remove them all.
18) Remove the fuel injector rail with it's injectors. Remove vacuum line to injector rail and fuel line.
19) Remove the Spark plug wires.
20) Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables (just snap out of their holders) Don't forget 2 remove the 2 bolts holding the cable.
21) Start unplugging the wiring harness that goes across the intake (in *black* square covering) it plugs into the o2 sensor, water neck, injectors, throttle position sensor, idle control motor, closed throttle switch, knock sensor, ac compressor, and ignition coils and igniters (should already be unplugged from previous steps) Remove transistor connection. Remove the bolts for the black plastic wire shield above the injector area. Disconnect BOV vacuum line. Slip O2 harness from bracket to the passenger side.
22) Remove both fuel lines and fuel feed line from the fuel rail. Be ready with a rag. ***Remember brake booster at IM***and hard to miss vacuum line between intake manifold and valve cover.
23) Put crank pulley bolt and washer back on.
24) Pull the spark plugs, find TDC #1 cyl, place a long screw driver or 1/4 extension in the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine approx. 90*, so all pistons are at mid stroke.
25) Slip the timing belt off by removing the idler pulley (pulley next to the water pump). ***I found removal of the idler pulley was not needed, just slipped off with relative ease***
25.5) Pull the balance belt off if there is one.
26) Also remove the brace along the back of the engine block that holds up the intake. If you cant get it off, at least remove the Bolts that are on the INTAKE, if the ones on the block are pulled out, you still will have a bi*** of a time removing the head. It's much easier to get to the couple of bolts on the intake manifold bracket from the passenger side. ****This only applies if the person left the bracket on****
27) Don't take the exhaust manifold off either, just unbolt the turbo (4 bolts) (unbolt just the turbo from the ex-man). Remove the bolts and nut that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold.
28) Disconnect the coolant line from the firewall to the thermostat water neck
29) Disconnect the coolant feed line and return line from the turbo (disconnect the big line fed from the hard coolant crossover pipe at the turbo, disconnect the small line at the rubber hose fed from the water neck, disconnect the coolant to oil cooler line on the water neck, disconnect oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan, but you can probably leave the turbo oil feed line connected to the turbo.
30) Remove valve cover and then remove the bolts that hold the head on. Make sure you untorque them in small steps and in the opposite order of the torque down procedure. This is best done with a 10MM 1/2inch drive IMPACT SOCKET. The Hex's in the middle are freeze plugs, they stay in. The head is sealed really well, and is stuck on the gasket.
Removal order of head bolts or ARP head studs.
4 6 9 7 1
2 8 10 5 3
front of car.
**This SHOULD be everything that holds the head on. Now is the time to do a once over check of everything. Look on all 4 sides of the head for anything that isn't unhooked and take appropriate unhooking measures. ** ***Check lines to throttle body and thermostat and make sure disconnected***
31) Pull head by putting a crowbar thru the exhaust manifold webs & pulling down - it levered the head loose from gasket suction quite easily. Then go from end to end of head & place wooden blocks under each end until head was almost clear of Turbo Stud. Lay a fender cover over where the radiator is, leaned over the front & pick it up.
32) Make sure to set the cylinder head on a piece of cardboard or doubled over towel.
33) Drain oil and filter.
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