Would this cause a boost problem?

[ktmrider]

I have not been able to boost past 5psi on the GVR4 since purchase.
Decided to prep for a 16g and 2g mani swap and pulled the heat shield. Think this might be my boost problem?
Guess this is a good example of a frail 1g manifold...

 

[ktmrider]

Sorry, attachments did not take.
Resized...

 

[silver bullit]

olGood for boost leaks, check all you intercooler pipes and replace that mani, how is the condition of your turbo thats on there now

 

[ktmrider]

No smoke but others are telling me to expect ugliness in the WG and outlet area.
Worst case I am still gonna put the 16g on then use the current turbo to test the Talon. At least I KNOW this turbo does not smoke...

 

[silver bullit]

Check for shaft play... also do you have a mbc on the car?

 

[ktmrider]

Shaft play on the cold side is minimal to none ( checked recently ).
It does have a MBC, it's turned all the way in ( max boost ) and still won't do more than 5psi. It'w why I started suspecting the manifold and/or WG.
Just gotta remember to set it down with the 16g!

 

[silver bullit]

No in and out side to side?

How do you have the mbc hooked up?
No point of throwing a new turbo one if something is broken cause that new turbo does not need to get messed up

 

[ktmrider]

No in/out, very little side-to-side.
The MBC is tapped from the BOV signal line to the WG.
Both the 16g and 2g mani are used, I had planned to eventually put on the Talon but would rather install on the Galant. The Talon has a major smoke problem and I would rather put a known non-smoker for testing purposes to eliminate issues.
Also I am thinking about unloading the Talon ( work travel ) and don't want to put a bunch of goodies on and sell it.

 

[talon187]

Ever hear of a boost leak test? i woud do one if i were you before you really break somthing

 

[silver bullit]

No in/out, very little side-to-side.
The MBC is tapped from the BOV signal line to the WG.
Both the 16g and 2g mani are used, I had planned to eventually put on the Talon but would rather install on the Galant. The Talon has a major smoke problem and I would rather put a known non-smoker for testing purposes to eliminate issues.
Also I am thinking about unloading the Talon ( work travel ) and don't want to put a bunch of goodies on and sell it.

You never tap the mbc in to the bov the bov and mbc need there own dedicated line off the intake mani.

You need to fix this asap.

 

[MrBoxx]

You never tap the mbc in to the bov the bov and mbc need there own dedicated line off the intake mani.

You need to fix this asap.

BOV needs its own line off the IM. MBC needs its own line off the compressor housing or lower intercooler pipe. And I agree that it needs to be fixed ASAP.

Also, boost leak testing is a must.

 

[slowgsr]

There is no problem with getting a pressure source from the intake manifold for the wastegate. However, right of the compressor is preferable.

 

[ktmrider]

Ever hear of a boost leak test? i woud do one if i were you before you really break somthing

Sorry guys, I guess I am missing the point on how a boost leak test could prevent me from breaking something? I mean yes, if I were boosting 20+psi it would be one of the first things I did but this is the DD.
BTW I am going to run the WG source directly from the J-tube initially ( should only see the 7psi spring pressure ) before diving directly in with the MBC and/or the stock BCS.
The previous owner installed the MBC, probably in hopes of finding the lost boost. I was not initially concerned, it runs fine and gets 28+mpg on the highway. I may even remove it and use on the Talon if things run at 11+psi.
On the BCS source, lots of opinions out there. Running off the comp housing means the WG won't register any boost drop/loss in the piping. I prefer a large intake manifold source since it is the truest measure of boost in the cylinders. The BOV line is the biggest short of the brake booster and runs very close to the WG actuator ( long hoses can also skew the reading ). Like mentioned I could find just as many people who say IM vs compressor housing but the IM makes the most sense to me.
Again this is my DD and I am not gonna turn the boost up to 18psi out of the box. Heck, it is bone stock all the way around and it probably won't see more than 13psi ever. The stock soft lines won't take much more boost than this anyway.
If I don't see 7psi with the WG to J-pipe I will do a boost leak test immediately. Yes I have built the one from the VFAQ and have a compressor at home.
Thanks for the input everyone, enjoy the picture of a game 1g exhaust manifold ( the only reason I started the thread ).

 

[talon187]

well if your only making 5psi and have a huge boost leak i did when my upper ic pipe blew off you could be making 20psi for all you know with your mbc turned all the way up but only seeing 5psi. i dont know what you have for injectors and so on so if your car cant support what its making it will break the question is when. as for the cracks in your manifold no they couldnt cause a boost like it would effect spool up time. i had 3 cracks in my stock manifold. go to home depot spend $5 and make a boost leak tester. your icp pipes could be dry roted or isc unit could have a bad o ring or your thorttle body could be leaking i had a few and i still saw more then 5psi but when i say 15lbs on my boost gauge i was really making 23psi.

 

[ktmrider]

Yeah 187, I left out a ton of details. I was trying to be sarcastic, guess I better keep my day job huh?
The 5psi of boost I could get would only come at 4500rpm or higher, talk about slow spool! This is what concerned me the most and the cracks confirmed what others had said about a 1g manifold and 140k miles. I already made a leak tester and pumped in 10psi, no hissing ( the stock soft IC hoses are reeely mushy, did not want to pump more ).
BTW I just finished installing a ported 2g manifold and mildly P&P 14b ( 16g was too much for a DD IMHO ). Turned the MBC all the way down/out and took it for a spin. Whoo hoo! NOW the car runs like it should. Hit 9psi nice and steady, BOV hissed when I let off the gas. It's almost like having a new car...
Anywho, thanks for the feedback and suggestions everyone! It actually made me realize the 16g more than I needed and the used 14b is a ton of fun. Peace.

 

[talon187]

youd have alot more fun with the 16g take it from exp my car should be running a 11.90 when the track opens im running a big 16g on pump gas set a 25psi and i bet ive got a leak or two myself its ben to cold to find out i havent driven her much latly ive also got wideband and a built motor but let me tell you she takes off like a rocket have fun if your on stock injectors with a stock pump dont not push more then 12 to be safe you should get a logger and a 255 pump and you should be ok for 14-15psi do you have an exhaust? when i upgraded to my 16g at frist she ran slow as a dog untill i put my full apexi on spool went way better even with the cracks in the manifold

 

[ktmrider]

The GVR4 is bone stock short of the MBC and K&N ( too dusty around here not to have a reusable filter ). It's the main reason I decided against the 16g altho I installed SS studs and oil feed line to make future upgrades easier.
I have the parts to do the fuel pump rewire, gonna keep the boost at 10 or less until installed. Til then I'll sit back and enjoy the ride!