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won't shift into gear

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97_gs

Probationary Member
6
0
Jun 21, 2005
roy, Utah
i have zero knowledge of transmissions, so bear with me. 97 eclipse gs, no mods, nothing special about this car at all. normal 5 speed transmission will not shift into any gear with the clutch pedal all the way down and ignition on. i can shift into gear with the ignition off, but as soon as i start it up the car stalls out. a friend had this exact problem on his talon, and i changed the slave cylinder per his fix. it still won't work, but i'm not sure if i blead it right after i changed the slave.

what are some things i can look at to narrow this down, and how do i go about bleeding the transmission correctly to rule that out?

people have recommended a new master cylinder, clutch kit, clutch plate, etc... but i don't have enough cash to just swap stuff out for troubleshooting. i'm looking more for guidance on troubleshooting this correctly than just "you might try changing out your ______"

appreciate the help.
 
Well before you go buying anything:

1) a buddy should be able to help you determine if pushing the clutch pedal is giving you the needed clutch throwout fork motion under the hood. The thing should have a good inch or so of travel on the side of the transmission bell. If there is NO motion or very little motion, then you may very well have air in that line and should practice bleeding it until you get it right.

2) Another possibility however is that the clutch line has gone bad and is stretching under the pressure rather than delivering the pressure to the pin at the end where it engages the fork. This would necessitate a replacement of the line, however if you have time, patience and access to about 50 zip ties, you can find out for sure by covering the soft rubber line from end to end with snug zip-ties. The plastic ties will restrain the hose from expansion if it is indeed expanding, and deliver the pressure to the fork. If it works after zip-tying it, you should be able to drive it like that for a short time, but your best bet would be to replace the line.

3) Check the adjustment of the pedal to make sure you're delivering as much linear motion as possible. If it's adjusted in the wrong direction, it'll only worsen the problem.

In either case, indeed it sounds like you're just having a problem with disengaging the clutch, so focus your attention there.

- SK
 
Its mostly likely a bad clutch, same thing happened to me a while back, I could not even get the car out of 1st gear without shutting the car off.

$350 For the clutch and install, and it back to silky smooth shifting again.
 
thx for the suggestions guys. i'll definitely keep trying to bleed it, i just hate not knowing if i'm doing it right or not.

as far as the clutch maybe being bad, how can i check this? i'd like to know one way or another without actually having to fork out the $250 or so just to find out the clutch isn't the problem.
 
97_gs said:
i'll definitely keep trying to bleed it, i just hate not knowing if i'm doing it right or not.
Properly bleeding it is very important. http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm

as far as the clutch maybe being bad, how can i check this?
If your car wasn't slipping in any gear before, the clutch is probably fine.

MC, SC, rubber clutch line (replace with SS line), adjustment on the MC and bleeding is where you need to focus on.
 
hey when u start the car will the tranny grind when u try to put it into gear?? If so than ur thoughout bearing is bad. I had the same problem replaced both slave and master clutch cyl's and didnt fixt it at all. until i droped the tranny and my bearing was in 5 pieaces.
 
boostedgst2984 said:
hey when u start the car will the tranny grind when u try to put it into gear?? If so than ur thoughout bearing is bad. I had the same problem replaced both slave and master clutch cyl's and didnt fixt it at all. until i droped the tranny and my bearing was in 5 pieaces.

no, there's no grinding noise when i try to go into gear. it simply won't shift into any gear, like there's a stop on the gear shift or something keeping it from going any further.
 
oldman said:
Properly bleeding it is very important. http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm


ah, this definitely gives me something different to try as this is not how i bled it originally. question though: the hose between the bleeder valve and the container with fluid in it... does that have a threaded end on it to connect to the sc? and if so, can i just check at a parts shop to pick one up?
 
97_gs said:
does that have a threaded end on it to connect to the sc? and if so, can i just check at a parts shop to pick one up?
I'm sorry I'm not quite sure what you're asking here. BTW fill out your profile, it would make helping you easier in the future.
 
have a friend check or have a friend push ur clucth pedal in to check for movement on the clutch fork. Make sure its traveling full length.
 
"$350 For the clutch and install, and it back to silky smooth shifting again."

Wow that is cheap man! I wish i could get a clutch done for that.

I would guess anywhere from $650-$1000.00 for a clutch, closer to 1K.

The parts alone are about $250 i think. And also have the flywheel surfaced.

Oh on a non turbo FWD, it would be about $600 i guess. AWD is alot more!
 
oldman said:
I'm sorry I'm not quite sure what you're asking here. BTW fill out your profile, it would make helping you easier in the future.

the line that goes from the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder to the container w/ fluid in it...does it need to have a sealed connection on the slave cylinder side so air doesn't get in through any leaks there? or will just holding a line in there suffice, even if it's not perfectly air tight.
 
Na doesnt have to be a sealed line. All u need is a long enough vacum line to go from the sc to the bottle. Just open up the bleeder vlave and just press the clutch up and down for a while then close the vlave and check pedal pressure and clutch fork movement.
 
boostedgst2984 said:
Just open up the bleeder vlave and just press the clutch up and down for a while then close the vlave and check pedal pressure and clutch fork movement.
It's good that you want to get involved in helping others but make sure you only post if you know the subject at hand.

Pump the pedal several times, hold it against the floor then open the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure, close the valve and repeat until no air bubble and fluid being release is nice and clear. I went through a bottle and a half to flush out the system completely.
 
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