wiring questions for LC1 wideband

[1Gina2G]

I know there's already alot of threads on this subject but just trying to confirm a few things for my install since there's alot of conflicting threads, with people mostly trying to log there info. I'm just trying to get my LC1 DB gauge to work by itself, not trying to log right now, no dsmlink or proper laptop. my questions are:

-Are all the grounds definatley going together? This changes back and forth on alot of threads, not sure why.

-I keep getting confused about what you're supposed to do with the yellow and brown wires coming from the LC1, Wouldn't I connect the brown wire from the LC1 to the white wire from the DB gauge, since I have the gauge?

- what exactly do people use the old rear 02 sensor wiring for? just to use the wideband as the stock sensor? can this only be done with dsmlink? just curious since I was going just use that spot for the wideband instead of any welding.

 

[Imback]

1- The grounds do stay all together.

2-The brown and yellow wire are analog wires. If not being used fold them up and tape them away.

3-The rear o2 sensor wiring is used for logging with link since most people don't use them once switching to a aftermarket exhaust. Only problem with putting the wideband back were the rear o2 goes is that there will be a slight delay with the afr since the sensor is towards the back of the car and any exhaust leak will scew the reading.

 

[snowborder714]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html

1. Grounds should be separated (see the tech article above).

2. If just using the wideband through your gauge, then yes, you'll hook the brown wire from the LC-1 up to the white wire from the gauge.

3. The rear o2 from the factory only checks if the cat is in place and working, which a lot of people get rid of. This is why it's a common input and installation location for a wideband. However, if you're still running a cat, you don't want to put the wideband in the rear o2 spot as it won't read correctly.

 

[pos4g63]

LC-1comes with instructions use them or download them from the web. You will have to hook the brown or yellow up to the gauge. Consult the instructions on which one to use. Either will work but you may have to reprogram the output if you choose the wrong one. Again read the instructions.

 

[1Gina2G]

1- The grounds do stay all together.

2-The brown and yellow wire are analog wires. If not being used fold them up and tape them away.

3-The rear o2 sensor wiring is used for logging with link since most people don't use them once switching to a aftermarket exhaust. Only problem with putting the wideband back were the rear o2 goes is that there will be a slight delay with the afr since the sensor is towards the back of the car and any exhaust leak will scew the reading.

Thanks alot for the quick reply. So the yellow and brown are analog wires, which are the wires used for logging correct? So i can tape both these.wires away untill i get ready for logging, and everything else should have the gauge working?

Grounding location only matters with a logging setup right? Because it taps into the ecu?

 

[snowborder714]

So the yellow and brown are analog wires, which are the wires used for logging correct?

In actuality, no. The yellow wire, from the factory, is used as a standalone narrowband sim signal. The brown wire is the one that outputs the wideband signal.

So i can tape both these.wires away untill i get ready for logging, and everything else should have the gauge working?

Not unless you have an XD-16 gauge, which uses 2.5mm stereo plugs to send the wideband signal to the gauge. If you have the DB gauge, you'll need to input the brown wire for it to get a signal.

Grounding location only matters with a logging setup right? Because it taps into the ecu?

I would say yes, but you might as well do it anyway since I hope at some point you'll want to log your wideband.

 

[boost97gst]

You can also program the output of the brown and yellow wires. You will need to do this when running a wire to the gauge and one to the ecu for link to see a true 0-5vdc wb signal.