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Will the SRS and ABS light cause a 2g to go into Limp mode

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Norcalgsx707

10+ Year Contributor
564
0
Jun 28, 2012
lake county, California
So my car is modded has all stage 1 mods minus cam's & down pipe my srs and my abs lights are on my car is a auto and its super sluggish off the line it takes forever to build up boost would the lights cause that in some way also my idle seems to be ok in Ecmlink but im getting knock when pressing down hard on the gas pedal, could this all be related?

And one more thing it shifts through all the gears
 
To me the problem is that is getting though all the gears maybe to early!? At what RPM it changes gear? What turbo do you have? And what set up maybe it just not build boost fast enough.

I have the Big evo 16g 680 cc injectors 255 lph and a hallman boost controller the trans has a IPT shift kit, and it shifts around 3000 rpms

I found the my idle switch is not running at 1 at Idle unless I check the simulate Idle switch option in tune is there a reason why its not opening unless I check that box

Being on the stock downpipe also creates a huge bottleneck. Getting yourself a downpipe would open her up sooner.

And I found that the ISPposistion is go down but not leveling out it did the other day now all the sudden it doesn't hmmmm weird DSM problems

I never noticed at what rpm range youre reaching boost at?

that makes since Im reaching boost at around 3.5-4000 RPMS


I think I may have found my problem Im not sure tho it looks like my open loop thresholds in ecmlink may be set wrong My my immediater OL load factor is at 1.22 at 0-1500 then it goes up to 1.36 I'm thinking that the car is staying in open loop causing it to not buld boost anybody else agree or am I off
 
Last edited:
If you have the stock throttle body (2g) the IPS is built in the TPS so you need to calibrate that.
In order to tune WOT you first need to have a near perfects idle and idle are al about air and full mostly. First calibrate the stopper screw the set tension to the throttle cable after that grab your laptop and zero the values in dsmlink under the TPS tab now unscrew your TPS and move it until you see 0.63v at 0% throttle, idle switch should be at -1 there are many topics here explaining more in depth but still I don't see how this would be your issue. Mmm since you are using 680cc injectors are they dialed in correctly? Do you have a wideband? Maybe you are running pig rich. Any smoke for the exhaust?
Also check your wastegate set up!
 
when tightning the Throttle cable how much slack do I want I noticed that when its tight my pedal sort of sticks and cause's I higher idle is there a rule of thumb way to make sure the cable is exact? and I have my tps set dead on .63 volts my idle seems better but I can't get that IDleswitch to open up without the simulated checked box in link it wasn't doing this the other day, also I will take a log this morning if you'd like to just glance at it, and on thing that I noted is that on the ECMlink sight his openLOOPthresholds his settings are all like 20 below mine his IMMEDIATEOLfactor is at .85% and mines at 1.22% im wondering if this is problematic and I should lower them to?
 
What is tour TPS offset?
If your pedal sticks then adjust the stopper screw is on the back of the throttle body. If I remember correctly you need to use a .77 feller gauge there is a vfaq here how to do it I'm on my phone now so I can't search it for you. After you do that then adjust the throttle cable the way I do it is, I unscrew the bolts just enough to be able to pull the cable by hand. Then using dsmlink I pull the cable until I see 1% throttle and slowly release it until I see 0% again and tight the bolts I have done it this way many times and it always worked for me and I see 100% when I push the pedal all the way in. Maybe somebody else knows a better way.
 
What is tour TPS offset?
If your pedal sticks then adjust the stopper screw is on the back of the throttle body. If I remember correctly you need to use a .77 feller gauge there is a vfaq here how to do it I'm on my phone now so I can't search it for you. After you do that then adjust the throttle cable the way I do it is, I unscrew the bolts just enough to be able to pull the cable by hand. Then using dsmlink I pull the cable until I see 1% throttle and slowly release it until I see 0% again and tight the bolts I have done it this way many times and it always worked for me and I see 100% when I push the pedal all the way in. Maybe somebody else knows a better way.

I believe its at zero
your talking about my tps % right if so its at 0%

Well I switched the Throttle body out and it looked like the butterfly where your acc;lerator cable hooks into was having trouble opening and closing, when and I tried to open it you could hear it sticking also the extra throttle body I have seems to open up harder and close harder the spring looks like it could be shot its really loose on the one I replaced, I think my tps might be getting ready to go to

And how I adjusted the screw I had the TB out I scewed it in untill it hit the butterfly on the back of the TB then I screwed it in 1 full turn like VFAQ states to do the another 1/4 when I turned my car on the TPS % was reading 1% so I screwed it out very slow untill I seen it hit 0 then I tightned the nutt hopefully the car stays like it is, will a faulty/sticking Butterfly cause your ISC to be screwed up and read 0?
 
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