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will be Running BC 280 cams on my car, what springs will be the best

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Heh. Simul-post FTW :applause:

So landospeed , whatever your name mean, you are confirming that you and Jackson posted under the influence? You do know that all your post under this condition don't count right? Okay just as long a you know this then everything is alright!:thumb: Carry onLOL
 
The term "streetable cam" was brought on by V8 guys that had to have 400lbs of seat pressure and would overheat the springs driving around at low RPM. Where my 294HL's have just shy of .500 lift/100lbs of seat pressure and I could drive this cam to cali and back with no issues.
 
:cool:
Im running stock springs with hks 272cams but i dont rev my engine high enough to get near valve float. Im not sureif 280 cams will cause the springs to bind or not. But i have zero issues.

Thanks casper for your input! You can be sure that brian crower did their homework on this one
 
The term "streetable cam" was brought on by V8 guys that had to have 400lbs of seat pressure and would overheat the springs driving around at low RPM. Where my 294HL's have just shy of .500 lift/100lbs of seat pressure and I could drive this cam to cali and back with no issues.

No. The term refers to the idle quality, idle speed, etc. Big, agressive cams have a lopey idle, run like garbage at low RPM, stall at traffic lights, foul plugs and don't provide enough vacuum to run power brakes- not "streetable".

There are hardly any engines with springs that need 400lbs on the seat. That's reserved for extreme solid roller setups like are used in TS, ProMod and Pro Stock engines with over an inch of lift. Not a fair comparison in the context of this conversation. Valve springs don't overheat at low RPM. It's a problem at high RPM and the fast cyclic rate that causes the heat. That's why NASCAR engines and the like use oil squirters to cool the springs. We're talking about hydraulic roller cams in this thread where 100-130lbs is more than sufficient.
 
Way off topic but we build them... Over 300 degrees of duration with over .700 lift. Springs that have to be installed in the seat and guide machine because it bends the fingers on the spring compressor. You have heard of edge orfice. Damn near zero oil in the head at low rpm. The springs cool themselves at idle? All springs with a cam like this need to be changed damn near every season.

My 294HLs idle just fine at 1k rpm. Has no balls under 2500rpm but who cares when you have 7-8k more to go. 11in/mg sucks to brake but that's what the vacuum pump is for. Like you said earlier. Everyone's "streetable" is different. I can't wait for it to get nice out to cruise this thing around.
 
that is a great point, i have about 11-12 hg at idle with these cams. brakes are ok, but its difficult to brake boot more than 12 psi with antilag in my auto without pulling through the brakes.
 
Best way to do it without a vacuum pump is to rev the engine up then slam the brakes. As the engine revs down it will pull decent vacuum. That's how I made my first 9 sec pass before I had the pump. Only 11 inches with the 272s? I think you need to upgrade to their new stuff or try to degree them in.
 
im pretty sure this is the bast i can get with an engine in good condition ; rings, valves etc. with the stock cams i had around 16-17 in at idle. if i was to degree the cams to change the overlap then it might increase my vac, but i dont really want that. if anything what i would do might reduce it in order to give me a faster spool time. i dont plan on adjusting the cams any time soon since my setup yeilds more power every time i drive and tune it. the talon sits 90% of the time in the garage ( no longer a daily driver) so i dont even care about streetable if its running correctly.
 
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