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will a stock ecu pull timing for lifters?

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turboblack2door

15+ Year Contributor
280
0
Nov 11, 2007
ozark, Missouri
I let my girlfriend drive my car the other day to work. She left the lights on and i had to come jump the car. Now the car seems like it has no power at all. Still on 10lbs of boost but i can feel the car like it's pulling timing just driving. I know my car has lifter tap the only thing is it wasn't doing this before i had to jump start it. I have since reset the ecu buy unplugging the battery and letting it sit but still no difference. Any suggestions? Also the gas milage has gone out the window now i'm down from like 300city to 200hwy
 
Wow thats crazy i didn't know jump starting the car would make the ecu go crazy...anyways since you tried reseting with the battery off, i say go head and unplug the whole ecu and check out the wiring while you are taking it off, just in case there was a shortage. Thats all i can think off just take the ecu out.
 
if its bad enough that the knock sensor will pick it up the ecu will pull timing but it want till you start building boost. I would do a boost leak test and see what you come up with. You may have a leak in one of your couplers
 
The lifters usually pump up and stop ticking by the time you're making boost. So unless one's collapsed that's most likely not your issue. But yes, in some rare circumstance a lifter may have collapsed the same time you jump started the car. But there's no logical reason for it. I am thinking improper jumping either burned something up or shorted something out. I've heard of people frying ECU's by letting the cable spark on the wrong thing for a second, so don't count out that you did some damage. But honestly you're chasing up the wrong tree thinking lifters when the issue that started it was an electrical one (i.e. the dead battery + jump starting it)
 
Get a logger to see if the ecu is actually pulling timing. Have a good sum of mods but no logger WTF Also check to see maybe when it was jumped off a vac hose got ripped or disconnected.
 
i don't think it was an improper jump because i used a jump box and there was no sparks or anything. As for the stuck lifter i think it may be that because i can hear it when i'm in boost. I checked the oil and there were no signs of bearing failure; which is why i was thinking it was the ecu pulling timing. I know i need a data logger i'm trying to save for dsm link and an eprom ecu. I don't even know anyone around here who has a data logger to use for a bit. Damn just the luck to me iguess though.
 
Dont feel too bad. If I needed to borrow a logger I wouldnt be able to find one either. If I asked the people around here what a logger was they would probably hand me a chain saw LOL Either that or they would say something similar to "My v8 has a carburetor" or "you called my mama a olbity toot log whore!?!"
 
If the knock sensor is causing your ecu to pull timming then yes. Because when you are knocking bad the ecu will pull timming and dump more fuel in an effort to save the engine.
 
I let my girlfriend drive my car the other day to work. She left the lights on and i had to come jump the car. Now the car seems like it has no power at all. Still on 10lbs of boost but i can feel the car like it's pulling timing just driving. I know my car has lifter tap the only thing is it wasn't doing this before i had to jump start it. I have since reset the ecu buy unplugging the battery and letting it sit but still no difference. Any suggestions? Also the gas milage has gone out the window now i'm down from like 300city to 200hwy

ECU does not pulle timing for lifters, lifters are controlled by oil pressure. When they tick they need to be cleaned and bleed or just replace them.

As far as being slower have you been putting 87 octane in it. Turbo cars and cars with high compression need 91+ octane gas, the higher the better.

Shifting and driving habits can play a key part in MPG, check your o2 sensor, Any tune ups done to the car?, also Do a boost leak test and check your spark plugs. Also do a compression test.
 
ECU does not pulle timing for lifters, lifters are controlled by oil pressure. When they tick they need to be cleaned and bleed or just replace them.

As far as being slower have you been putting 87 octane in it. Turbo cars and cars with high compression need 91+ octane gas, the higher the better.

Shifting and driving habits can play a key part in MPG, check your o2 sensor, Any tune ups done to the car?, also Do a boost leak test and check your spark plugs. Also do a compression test.

gas is 93 octaine pluggs checked good, haven't done boost test yet going to do that tomorrow and replace lifters out of spare head this week
 
My car USE to pull harder when my, Knock sensor was bad, Replaced and its constantly pulling timing now ALSO!

I have TWO major sources of rattles, ONE VERY stuck or bad Lifter that NEVER stops ticking and a thowout bearing that almost seams to want to fly apart. The throwout is Brand new with less than 500miles on it but rattles badly cheap one that came with my clutch kit from MAPERFORMANCE.com From now on ITS only STOCK throwouts....

When it drives it just seams to Lurch forward, as the timing is changing up and down, even without WOT so it must be picking up knock.
I suspect these also are pulling my timing as a source of PHANTOM Knock, just because when the lifter goes quiet it seams to pull harder and when it ticks badly the car just stumbles on its face everywhere. A friend suggested moving the Knock sensor lower and putting a rubber o-ring on it.....

I have been without one for many years and did not even realize it was suppost to be there someone had cut off the harness.....
 
In my chip i told it to ignore knock below 3500 since its the general area of phantom knock,
especially with prourethanes and balance shafts removed.

About a year ago my Megan DP was sitting smack against the transfer case and was causing some aweful vibrations, and I had to take it off and take a sludge hammer to the flex section to crush it in some. Now its just barely clearing, but that got rid of some foney knock.

Also make sure knock sensor is torqued down right, and i prefer running thicker oil.
I do have the 3rd revision lifters though which dont ever seem to tick with their revised oil flow.

The only time i get phantom knock now is if im cruising and i just drop it into a lower gear abruptly
then it will bleep enough to pull a deg of timing or two but then instantly regain full value and be fine.
 
I've been working to much to get under it but i'm going to try to snatch my moms set of spare lifters off her vr4 head that are just sitting and also i'm going to try to tighten the knock sensor(don't think this is the issue)
 
I've been working to much to get under it but i'm going to try to snatch my moms set of spare lifters off her vr4 head that are just sitting and also i'm going to try to tighten the knock sensor(don't think this is the issue)

Wouldnt tightening it make it worse?

If you are gonna do this clean them or do the smart thing and get new ones.
 
Yes make noise etc and needs to be replaced, or you can clean valves off you pistons, what ever is cheaper for you to do

clean valves off my pistons? i guess im missing something. I don't know if you mis worded or i'm just unfamiliar with the termonology
 
Im also having the dreaded PK I think from my lifters. Had a buddy build a head for me and of coarse he didnt install 3g lifters like I thought he would.

Tightening the knock sensor would make it worse I think.

I wonder what would happen if I tuned the car to a perfect tune and just took the knock sensor out and zip tie it to the side so I dont have to worry about the PK causing timing pull. Only that could be dangerous.
 
Im also having the dreaded PK I think from my lifters. Had a buddy build a head for me and of coarse he didnt install 3g lifters like I thought he would.

Tightening the knock sensor would make it worse I think.

I wonder what would happen if I tuned the car to a perfect tune and just took the knock sensor out and zip tie it to the side so I dont have to worry about the PK causing timing pull. Only that could be dangerous.


It is possible to have a good tune and no knock sensor, but only marginally on a stock or modified stock ECU..but


Very possible on a stand alone where there's no uncontrolable variable tables. I have ran for 9 years with no knock sensor, tuning way more aggresively than the stock 1g ECU even and on plain pump gas (keeping boost at 20 and under normally) i have only blown one motor i those 9 years. I now have a knock system that's far superior than a stock one so I am only know starting to even care what a knock snesor has to say in any situation other than on the dyno for the first time in 10 years. At least this units not a hypocondriac like the mitsu one though.

but with a carefull ear eye and mind you can achieve a good tune without a knocki sensor and a hard running tune at that. But honestly if you're not considering yourself an "advanced tuner" minimum, don't even try it.
 
I wouldnt be doing the tuning alone anyways. I was thinking of getting a very good pump gas tune because I can get good logs without PK just by letting go of the gas real quick and getting back into the throttle. Then do multiple logs on some warm days and make sure im safe before removing it.

I just hate when I'm cruising and I go wot, not knowing im having PK and it will give me 43 counts pulling timing so bad you can feel the power drop. I think I will go with e85 before I think of pulling it since we cant even get a 16g to detonate on that fuel.

The good thing is if I launch from a stop or down shift I dont get pk, only if Im crusing and lay into it. So when Im at the track its not really an issue, only on the street.
 
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