will a stock ecu pull timing for lifters?

[4Motion4g63]

It is possible to have a good tune and no knock sensor, but only marginally on a stock or modified stock ECU..but


Very possible on a stand alone where there's no uncontrolable variable tables. I have ran for 9 years with no knock sensor, tuning way more aggresively than the stock 1g ECU even and on plain pump gas (keeping boost at 20 and under normally) i have only blown one motor i those 9 years. I now have a knock system that's far superior than a stock one so I am only know starting to even care what a knock snesor has to say in any situation other than on the dyno for the first time in 10 years. At least this units not a hypocondriac like the mitsu one though.

but with a carefull ear eye and mind you can achieve a good tune without a knocki sensor and a hard running tune at that. But honestly if you're not considering yourself an "advanced tuner" minimum, don't even try it.

I ran Without a Knock sensor for at least 4 years, OVERBOOSTED my 14b to 20+lbs or better my gauge goes to 20lbs, Stock Fuel system Stock everything except a exaust and a hks intake and greddy bov, Just didnt realize it was Overboosting due to a failed MBC till I put the gauge on it. Still Pulled better when it had NO Knock sensor..I even Unplug it when the going gets tough and need to wax a Stang after it outran me due to pulled timing....
Still the motor was fine and still fine drives daily and USE to be faster without stupid knock sensor, I have a few rattles thu my drivetrain and my valvetrain, causing phantom knock..

 

[droppinbottom]

I am not going to take the time to read through some of what has been posted but here is some FYI

Overtightening a knock sensor is a bad idea because it will make it too sensitive. Do a search and you will see what I am talking about.

Just my .02 but if you are hearing the noise under boost then I would not think it is a lifter. I would be first checking for a boost leak. That alone can cause a noise while under boost. It would have to be a pretty bad one since you are only at 10psi but it is possible. I have had a issue like this when I went from low boost to over 25psi. At higher boost levels you will find leaks more often.

Hope you get it figured out and be easy on the GF. I know it is easy to point the finger "WTF were you doing to my car, I let you drive it and now all kinds of S%it is wrong"

 

[Black_Bullet]

Id be hesistant to tune without some type of knock detecting device even if i had the best quality fuel.
There could always be a day were theres a fuel malfunction or other weird problems that could give you bad knock and you wouldnt expect it since your relying on your tune being so good.

 

[JayRolla]

Id be hesistant to tune without some type of knock detecting device even if i had the best quality fuel.
There could always be a day were theres a fuel malfunction or other weird problems that could give you bad knock and you wouldnt expect it since your relying on your tune being so good.

Thats why you have a wbo2 If you do have a fuel issue you will see it on the wbo2 and you should be ok. Out of the 10+ logs ive seen of my brothers car since e85, there has not been one time the car has detonated. Just not enough airflow in that 16g even at 28psi and 20*+ timing.

 

[turboblack2door]

So today in effort to locate the issue I have checked my codes and it turned out (fuel trim malfunction bank #1)(i was told this is the front o2 sensor) I did a compression 130lbs across the board because i figured that the lifter i thought was stuck is effecting the way the car was reacting. The car is still dumping fuel like crazy. Car is still getting 200miles to a tank and now i'm comming to a loss of things this might be. I was really pulling for the lifter(s) to be the issue but now that the compression is comming out good i don't think it is that. I also unplugged the knock sensor to see if that might be the issue but still no luck fixing the issue. So anyone that might have some insight in this would really help because at this point i'm stuck

 

[spyderturbo007]

Yep, with the P0170 CEL you're going to have crappy gas mileage. The front O2 sensor is what the ECU uses to calculate fuel delivery at idle / cruise conditions. With a dead O2 sensor, the ECU is going to see a false lean condition and start increasing the fuel trims in an attempt to compensate. Once the trims reach the ECU's adjustment range limit, it trips the CEL. So basically, the ECU is dumping in a bunch of extra fuel to compensate for the false lean.

You can check the O2 votage with a logger and verify it's cycling.

As for the compression test, you are actually below the service limit of 133psi. Was the test done with the vehicle up to operating temperature and at WOT?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Could a faulty ecu cause your issue? The knock board could be messed up or something. Idk.

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

Sounds like a dead front o2 sensor if you ask me.

 

[turboblack2door]

Yep, with the P0170 CEL you're going to have crappy gas mileage. The front O2 sensor is what the ECU uses to calculate fuel delivery at idle / cruise conditions. With a dead O2 sensor, the ECU is going to see a false lean condition and start increasing the fuel trims in an attempt to compensate. Once the trims reach the ECU's adjustment range limit, it trips the CEL. So basically, the ECU is dumping in a bunch of extra fuel to compensate for the false lean.

You can check the O2 votage with a logger and verify it's cycling.

As for the compression test, you are actually below the service limit of 133psi. Was the test done with the vehicle up to operating temperature and at WOT?

the compression test was done at opperating temp but i forgot to do the wot. i will do it at wot tonight

 

[turboblack2door]

i did a compression test today at WOT and i came up with better numbers across the board. the numbers were right at about 150 for all 4 cylenders. I have a question about the o2 sensor. Would there be any way to see if the sensor was bad? and also would there be anyway to possibly clean it?