why did my barely used b16g just blow???

[insanedsm2403]

Hello everyone.I have a 90 tsi awd with basic mods wally 255,610cc inj,2g mas,full stock rebuild on motor with b/s removed,mitsu 4 layer mls,arp head stud,3 inch turbo back and so on bla bla.I have boost set at 18psi with turbo xs bc.of course the 16g never listens to this command and likes going into the 25psi area when the pressure is really put on by the right foot.now on to my turbo.it is barely used.put 2,500 miles on it then it sat for 3 years until about a month and a half ago slightly less then 1,500 miles so far when I swapped motor and turbo in.So I'm out tonight and after hitting normal operating temp I do a hard 3rd thru 4th pull slow down and do another one,3rd thru 4th.all is well I get to a stoplight maybe half mile down.I start driving and hear a loud really okward howling like a cayote I would say.my boost seemed delayed and not so strong.I got to my garage pull the intake pipe off and holy sh**!rediculous amount of shaft play.it absolutely needs a rebuild.oh and by the way I did a blt test maybe 500 niles ago and all still felt mint in regards to shaft play.my question is what the hell could have caused this disaster,so that I don't chew through another one so fast because this is my daily driver and this is unacceptable.any help,ideas,suggestions please let me know.I appreciate any help.oh before I go I never ported my oil housing for lower oil pressure but lets also think around that at maybe other causes.

 

[insanedsm2403]

Yupp been looking at those links for some time now.I just never had a candidate in need of rebuilding until now.I'm confident I can do it with these step by step instructions.and hey might as well port the hell out of it,this way when I say 20 psi is the limit,it'll listen

 

[dsmspickdad]

I have seen several 16g's go all related to poor oil circulation. After spending all that money for new turbo, why not spend some more for the correct oil lines? A time for up-grade for SS lines and get rid of the stock lines. I like to replace the oil return line with larger diameter ID lines. To cut down the restrictions. Use the correct grade of oil, or go synthenic.

 

[JusMX141]

I have seen several 16g's go all related to poor oil circulation. After spending all that money for new turbo, why not spend some more for the correct oil lines? A time for up-grade for SS lines and get rid of the stock lines.

Be careful what you recommend, it's very easy to over-oil a TD05H turbo as they're not designed to be fed from the filter housing with a larger, restrictor-free feed line. What works fine on one car will destroy turbos on 10 other cars.

I like to replace the oil return line with larger diameter ID lines. To cut down the restrictions.

What drain line is bigger than stock? Not -10AN which most distributors sell....it's about 1/8" smaller.

 

[insanedsm2403]

I have a brand new ss feed from oil filter housing all ready to go.although this almost sounds like a great solution to my problem,I'm gona go with a less used very extremely cleaned stock line again and a synthetic.I don't want to fix under oiling,only yo have over oiling destroy another one.remember fresh motor,b/s removed,unported oil relief valve.

 

[mountaineerjeff]

if you get a rebuild kit, make sure you have it professionally balanced, a rebuilt turbo will blow reall quick without a balancing

 

[insanedsm2403]

Wait I can't just use the article on this site to rebuild a td05 and just slap it back on?where would this kind of balancing be availible.,

 

[Demon33]

That is most likely your cause of failure.

"Oil feed lines often become filled with carbon deposits that will damage your new turbo. Even a clean used one is a liability. In fact most aftermarket manufactures will not warranty a turbo that was installed with a used oil line."

That came directly out of the book: "How to build max performance Mitsubishi 4g63t engines"

I alway check this book when doing any tuning or swaps.

+1 on this. When my original 14b failed I replaced the CHRA not knowing that the stock oil feed line was clogged. Within about 400 miles on the new turbo it failed too. I tried to get it replaced under warranty, but because the cause was oil starvation I was SOL. A new oil line solved the problem and the new CHRA worked flawlessly.

So, when I recently replaced that old 14b with a new e316g, I was sure to buy and install a NEW OEM oil feed line. The old line was working without any problem and I proably could have reused it without issue, but just to be on the safe side I spent the extra $50 or so to ensure the longevity of my new $500 turbo. So far so good. I see 25 psi daily and the turbo is still performing beautifully with just over 5,000 miles on it.

Take it from someone who's learned the hard way, replace your old oil feed line with a new one.

 

[mountaineerjeff]

Wait I can't just use the article on this site to rebuild a td05 and just slap it back on?where would this kind of balancing be availible.,

the turbo does need to be balanced, and obviously at a shop that balances turbos, . just look into google to see if there is anything local. it may be a better option to just send it off and pay to have it rebuilt which includes balancing, and more often than not a warranty

 

[JusMX141]

if you get a rebuild kit, make sure you have it professionally balanced, a rebuilt turbo will blow reall quick without a balancing

Is that so? Guess I should've listened to you 7 years ago when I started rebuilding turbos.


Rebalancing at the time of a rebuild is a waste of time and money if there's no wheel damage. If both wheels are undamaged, there's nothing that balancing will correct.

 

[4pistons]

Mitsubishi balances the Compressor wheel, the shaft, and the Turbine Wheel individually so there's no need for balancing after the rebuild.

Can't speak for other brands.

Rick- '91 GSX

 

[insanedsm2403]

Oh nice that's exactly what I was looking to hear because I'm not paying anymore for this turbo.other then a rebuild kit,oil line and that's it.

 

[dsm-onster]

Whe pulling the turbo apart, you should mark the compresor wheel and shaft so that it will go on exactly as it came off. From what I was told MHI balances the wheels separately. But as Justin said, unless you nicked your wheels there's no need for a rebalance, if the marks you made are lined back up. . . What ever you do, just follow Justins advice. He's been doing this for along time.

 

[JusMX141]

Mitsubishi balances the Compressor wheel, the shaft, and the Turbine Wheel individually so there's no need for balancing after the rebuild.

Some MHI turbos are component-balanced; namely older 14B's and some 16G's, and most 20G's I've seen.

If the compressor locknut has balance grinds on it, you should probably mark alignment of the wheel on the shaft to be sure of proper alignment....although I've swapped wheels on turbos that were clearly rotating-assembly balanced for guys who were cheap and didn't want to pay for a rebalance and they worked absolutely fine for years.

 

[insanedsm2403]

I can see why an unbalance turbo spinning close to 100,000rpm would quickly desinegrate if not balanced.hopefully driving back to my garage ten mins out of boost won't hurt,after I heard the cayote howling.only two more days of waiting for 14b to come in will tell the real story

 

[dsm-onster]

Are you sure it was a cayote and not your turbo

 

[inneed4dsm]

also do not forget to prime the turbo when putting it back on thats very important

 

[insanedsm2403]

And how does this priming procedure go?I really would like to enjoy beating the piss out of this turbo next time with no problems.

 

[dsm-onster]

I have no idea. There's not enough pressure when bumping the starter to bring pressure to the head enough to push it to the turbo. Been there done that. Didnt notice the oil line was unhooked from the head until AFTER the car was running.

You SHOULD just pour oil into the CHRA and spin the wheels until they tighten up with in an out play if they have any. All the play will deminish a bit when the turbo is filled with oil properly.