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White Smoke / Car Is Smoking White [Merged 7-9]

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Apeximprt2nr

15+ Year Contributor
620
5
Apr 20, 2005
Northern, New Jersey
Alright guys, well I just finished my 14B install in my 95 GSX. All is well besides some minor oil leaks on the return line and the SS feed line at the filter housing. There was also a VERY minor coolant leak from the front banjo bolt on the turbo. I tightened it a tad and I think i went away. Now the turbo is spooling really late because I think there may be a leak before the turbo.
Now on to the problems.

1. The turbo does not smoke at all besides at WOT sometimes it blows out whiteish grey smoke. I'm trying to think of where it could be burning coolant. It never did this before the turbo install.

2. There was some white smoke the past 2 days at the manifold. I'm thinking its the shitload of PB Blaster that I sprayed all over the car but I'm not sure.

3. There's a smell coming from my engine that I can smell if I pop my hood and it becomes more noticeable when I'm driving and really get on it. It smells like burning plastic sort of, with a mix of burning rubber. The lower heat shield is not on the car because it's a pain to get on and I haven't put it back on because I haven't had time. Nothing is touching anything hot so I 'm confused...The only possible thing is maybe I pout on a new 4 ply exhaust mani. gasket as well as antiseize on most of the bolts and the turbo-mani. bolts.

Any help? Thanks.
 
Plugs that clean with excessive oil consumption is a SURE sign of exhaust valve seals leaking. The oil never reaches the combustion chamber. ;)

I'd venture to guess cylinder #2 has the worst of the leaky valve seals, as evident by the compression test. Some of the oil is running down and burning to the valve seat, causing an uneven sealing surface.
 
So in lament terms since im new to this lvl of work, I know this is bad, but is the car still driveable, for how long is it driveable, what does it take to fix this?
 
well checked my oil a bit ago, and was about half a quart lower then i was yesterday if the notch to notch is a quart, which means i somehow lost or burned a half quart in a day... Checked all over for leaks, and saw nothing, did notice that a couple spots that used to have a tiny leak, like a wetness that took a week to build along the valve cover gasket, is no longer leaknig
 
I Couldn't find any good results using search so i'm just going to post my problem here. Usually when I come to a stop a nasty smelling white smokes comes out my exhaust. The HG was recently replaced so that shouldn't be it. Oil is good i'm using 5W-30. Using Unleaded fuel,I recently bought some non-smoke oil treatment but that hasn't helped. This is really bugging me out and it's a little embarrassing especially in the drive through at McDonalds LOL. I doubt this is true but it helps if I turn the heater on.
 
White smoke means one thing and one thing only. Coolant is entering the combustion chamber. You need to take it back to where the hg was done. Tell them what's going on and show them.
 
Theres your problem. NEVER reuse head studs. No matter what the situation is. Get some arp's and do it aaaaall over again.
 
White smoke with a sweet kinda smell is coolant burning.

Do a leak down test.
 
:pray:Ok this might be a long story so please bare with me. My '97 GST has been burning on idle and a shitload of smoke after shifting on wot. The smoke msut be oil ### its bluish on idle and white. Cant be a blown head gasket because its a rebuild engine, and checked compression test to check piston rings and the results are perfect: 180, 180, 180, 180 all across:hellyeah:. So i was positive it was the oil seals on my stock T25 so I upgraded to a 14B with new gaskets, washers, stock oil feed line hooked to the head. After the swap took the car out for a test drive and the exact same problem persists:banghead: Any help would be greatly apreciated VALVE GUIDES?? :confused: OR 14B I bought is crap?? Please help guys:pray: alot of money put in this car
 
Valve guides or seals almost guaranteed. Might as well just take the head to a machine shop and have then do new guides, seals, a 3 or 5 angle valve job, and maybe some port and polishing. Then when you get it back, put some new valves with springs and retainers in there. If you are on a budget get some evo springs so that you don't have to worry about your head handling cams later. Iirc, the evo springs and retainers work just fine with up to a 272 cam, but I could be wrong there.

So long post short, if you have to fix it, why not build it and not have to worry about it again?
 
Since im n a really really low budget and my compression #s are perfect im trying avoid removing the head and expensive shops, but thanks for the advice 98GSXtacy. Will any spring tool work or is there a specific one I need if i wanna replace the without removing the head??
 
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