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Which / What Oil Should I Use? [Merged]

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S.O.B I been running Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30.

Looks like it's time to swap to Royal purple. Damn that's expensive LOL
 
yes it should be on miles not time. Yet what the average miles driven for a DD ? That is what it apples to. if your asking what oil to use and dont say its for racing then i assume that the car is a DD. as for thinner oil, the faster the oil moves the more heat it takes with it to the cooler, if oil moves slow it does not carry much heat with it. Many will say i am crazy but its not god given facts i am putting out. i am just giving my opinion on this matter. As for the mob1 you are right, i did more looking in to my motor and found that its crank takes one hell of a beating I.E crank walk. now i am thinking that i want to go with shock proof and and 40w redline after full rebuild. i said in my first post this is my first personally owen DSM however i have been racing for most my life.
NOTE to admen is there any improvement?

FYI by thinner i am referring to its hot temp not cold temp as in 20w-30 or 10w-20.
for a race set up not drag, i would go 40w and 50w on a 50/50 blend
 
Post #465 is fixed. i will go back and fix all posts to standard. please allow for time and i will update when each post it fixed. thank you for your time.

Update! All my posts where went over again. To look for any errors. i tried to explain my self more in each one. So if you are an admin or calan please feel free to reread and tell me if i still sound like i am 10 years old ?

back to topic: Oil what should be ran in a turbo car?
I say if your a normal car, 20-40 full syn mob1!!! all year unless in cold climate.
and for a turbo dsm with and mods,30-50 for summer and and 20-50 in winter.
if and only if you have a lots of under hood heat all year round run thinner oil 0-40 or 0-30.
Change all oil in turbo cars very 6 months needed or not.

The ideal reciprocating engine oil viscosity is one that has relatively high film strength with the lowest viscosity possible. I run 15w 40 and I still prime my engine for 15-20 seconds prior to start up in my race car.
 
yes it should be on miles not time. Yet what the average miles driven for a DD ? That is what it apples to. if your asking what oil to use and dont say its for racing then i assume that the car is a DD.

That makes exactly zero sense.

I daily drive my car to and from work, with extended trips every other weekend. So how many miles do I drive in 6 months?

as for thinner oil, the faster the oil moves the more heat it takes with it to the cooler, if oil moves slow it does not carry much heat with it. Many will say i am crazy but its not god given facts i am putting out. i am just giving my opinion on this matter. As for the mob1 you are right, i did more looking in to my motor and found that its crank takes one hell of a beating I.E crank walk. now i am thinking that i want to go with shock proof and and 40w redline after full rebuild. i said in my first post this is my first personally owen DSM however i have been racing for most my life.

I can't stress enough how beneficial it would be for you to spend less time typing, and more time searching and reading. And I mean that in the kindest way possible.

As a friendly reminder, from our site rules:

Only give advice on subjects you have first-hand experience with. Do not post hearsay or misinformation.
 
yes it should be on miles not time. Yet what the average miles driven for a DD ? That is what it apples to. if your asking what oil to use and dont say its for racing then i assume that the car is a DD. as for thinner oil, the faster the oil moves the more heat it takes with it to the cooler, if oil moves slow it does not carry much heat with it. Many will say i am crazy but its not god given facts i am putting out. i am just giving my opinion on this matter. As for the mob1 you are right, i did more looking in to my motor and found that its crank takes one hell of a beating I.E crank walk. now i am thinking that i want to go with shock proof and and 40w redline after full rebuild. i said in my first post this is my first personally owen DSM however i have been racing for most my life.
NOTE to admen is there any improvement?

FYI by thinner i am referring to its hot temp not cold temp as in 20w-30 or 10w-20.
for a race set up not drag, i would go 40w and 50w on a 50/50 blend

Please dont put transmission oil in your engine.

When you run thicker oil the pressure increases yes but it is not moving through the engine faster. Its actually moving slower and why the pressure has gone up because you are running an oil that has more resistance to flow. Take that thick oil and think about whats its like at cold start up. Its like trying to run your engine on pure honey. Please just go by what the manufacturer recommends.
 
Lol yah I was like damn it. I blame my phone! Bwahahaha

At least you know there is an edit button and went back and fixed it.

Trying to stand out in the crowd? That's like the third time someone has edited a post to fix a mistake this year. LOL

Please dont put transmission oil in your engine.

Shockproof isn't even tranny oil. I wouldn't run that in my tranny; much less anywhere near my engine's bearings. :)
 
Well apparently oil can not be shipped to Alaska LOL at least not that oil.
Which is weird because I order my redline fluid through amazon.
 
Well apparently oil can not be shipped to Alaska LOL at least not that oil.
Which is weird because I order my redline fluid through amazon.

Do you guys not have any speed shops up there? Most any racing supply house should carry it. It's especially big with the circle track/stock car guys...at least around here. I buy BP 20w-50 by the case through Smiley's Racing for about $4.75 a quart.

If you can't get the Penn, look for Valvoline VR1. It's also reasonably priced and more readily available.
 
No I called all the parts stores all the high performance car and bike shops none has heard of brad penn oil.
I should have known as none of them know about redline fluid either.
I will just get a family member that lives in FL to ship me some or something LOL.
 
(didnt mean to quote)

Calan, I swear man, we need to get you you're own emoticon. Something that would fit this:

:smackdown:

ROFL

(No offense intended... I have been :smackdown: by you also, and you were right, so it is all good.)
 
Do you guys not have any speed shops up there? Most any racing supply house should carry it. It's especially big with the circle track/stock car guys...at least around here. I buy BP 20w-50 by the case through Smiley's Racing for about $4.75 a quart.

If you can't get the Penn, look for Valvoline VR1. It's also reasonably priced and more readily available.

Well I have interesting news. I found the VR1 10w30 Valvoline VV205 VR1 Racing Formula SAE 10W-30 Turbo Approved Motor Oil - 1 Quart (Case of 12) : Amazon.com : Automotive

This stuff can be shipped to Alaska. :ohdamn:
So looks like im in luck LOL.
 
Ok, I am NOT going to read through 16 pages of merged threads to ask this, since this seems to be an active topic today... Why does everyone talk about this Penn motor oil?? I have a few old time Grand National turbo gurus here, and they all tout VR1 20W50, 60w, and Rotella 15W40. People who have adhered to these here have had MUCH less issues with friction damage... So why is this Penn stuff any better/different?
 
Please dont put transmission oil in your engine.

When you run thicker oil the pressure increases yes but it is not moving through the engine faster. Its actually moving slower and why the pressure has gone up because you are running an oil that has more resistance to flow. Take that thick oil and think about whats its like at cold start up. Its like trying to run your engine on pure honey. Please just go by what the manufacturer recommends.

The manufacturer doesn't recommend huge turbos at 40 psi, and 9,000 rpms either.
 
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