Which weight oil to use on performance app.

[Gasolinebaptism]

I am running a set up On Link V2.
Manley Turbo-Tuff I-beams. 690 grams
Ross Pistons (9.0 comp.) 318 grams
Polished Crank.
FP .88HTA
comp 101200 cams.
1990 oil cooler
working on keeping the engine cooler, hopefully below 190*

Now, this build is fairly new, and it'll be my first oil change on the complete build. Typically I have the rev limiter set at 8250. I don't have it higher. It'll get to 100 degrees in my area probably 15 times over the summer. The previous owner used 20-50.
So I want something that will have good heat dispersion properties, but I also don't want something too thick... I was thinking a 0-50 or a 0-40...
What do you guru's of mathematics have to say, especially regarding my rods and pistons for best results.

brand will be mobil-1 or better.

 

[clipto]

After reading this Im gonna go with valvoline 10w30 vr1. What would be a reccommended service for a oil change using these oil. Since they are mostly detergent free?

You might get alot off different opinions, but i always change my oil every 3,000 miles no matter what oil i use along with my spark plugs. Most intervals ive seen are 3,000miles to 5,000miles or 3 to 6 months.

 

[bmoha7321]

I have only used mobil1 10w-30 synthetics in my DSM. What's wrong with Mobil1? I just recently switched to 10w-40. When I just did the balance shaft belt and balance shaft elimination I was very impressed with how clean the innards of the motor were. No sludge buildup. No metal particulate. Mostly I use K & N filters or Mobil1. But at the same time... I'd have to say the bearing for the front balance shaft closest to the front case looked like crap. Now I'm concerned.

 

[1fastlaser]

I ran mobil 1 15w40 for 8 years in my gfcs 2.4. 700+ to the crank for the last 2 years of its life 8-9k shifts 5spd to auto swap. Never saw race gas or anything besides 93 octane. When the motor can apart after a standard Wiseco was not up for the task anymore the bearing were perfect. Mains and rods were acl race. Just food for thought. There Is definitely better oils out there

 

[99gst_racer]

To add to the Brad Penn oil, it is a great oil and I run it but I was running the 20w-50 and was seeing over 100 psi oil pressure which let to blowing the seal on the oil filter. I am still going to run Brad Penn but going to go down to the 10w-40. This car is stored winters but gets driven in spring and fall(Whenever roads are clear). Anyone see anything wrong with running 10w-40 even in the summer? I have an external oil cooler.

Port your OFH. With a ported housing and 20w50 oil, I'm in the 15-60 psi range.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Port your OFH. With a ported housing and 20w50 oil, I'm in the 15-60 psi range.

I already ported the OFH. I ran 15w-40 last year and never had a problem with seeing over 100 psi. I did swap in a 90 OFH but did the same amount of porting to this one as I did to the other. The car was warm but it was only 55* outside so that may have contributed to it.

 

[99gst_racer]

Ambient temps will affect is some, but if you're seeing 100+ psi on warm/hot oil, then you probably need more porting.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I went pretty much as far up as you would want to go but I may have been able to go a tad bit wider than I did. I am going to try a lighter oil and see how the perssure is. If 10w-40 pressure is fine then I will just continue to run that oil.

 

[Silent_White]

I have only used mobil1 10w-30 synthetics in my DSM. What's wrong with Mobil1? I just recently switched to 10w-40. When I just did the balance shaft belt and balance shaft elimination I was very impressed with how clean the innards of the motor were. No sludge buildup. No metal particulate. Mostly I use K & N filters or Mobil1. But at the same time... I'd have to say the bearing for the front balance shaft closest to the front case looked like crap. Now I'm concerned.

please read

Check out this link! http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf
Do Not use Mobil 1

I run valvoline VR1 20w-50.

 

[rr06rs]

So would 20w50 still be recommended for a tighter tolerance 6 bolt block with 35lbs of boost, reving to 8k? Or would 15w40 be better?

 

[Marceldsm]

I have only used mobil1 10w-30 synthetics in my DSM. What's wrong with Mobil1? I just recently switched to 10w-40. When I just did the balance shaft belt and balance shaft elimination I was very impressed with how clean the innards of the motor were. No sludge buildup. No metal particulate. Mostly I use K & N filters or Mobil1. But at the same time... I'd have to say the bearing for the front balance shaft closest to the front case looked like crap. Now I'm concerned.

funny you say that cose at the MITSUBISHI
Dealer here in Montreal ( ST-JEAN) there are like 7 dsms -evos whit blown engines becouse of mobile 1 apparently there was no oil left in the pan,
i dont whant to bash Mobil1 i just saying

I have only used mobil1 10w-30 synthetics in my DSM. What's wrong with Mobil1? I just recently switched to 10w-40. When I just did the balance shaft belt and balance shaft elimination I was very impressed with how clean the innards of the motor were. No sludge buildup. No metal particulate. Mostly I use K & N filters or Mobil1. But at the same time... I'd have to say the bearing for the front balance shaft closest to the front case looked like crap. Now I'm concerned.

tell that to the 4 evos in front of the Dealership who need new engines becouse of that specific oil.

Apperently 4G63 dont like this brand

Use Mobile 1 on anything except a Dsm EVO

 

[TurboLaserRS]

I'm sorry but that's a really stupid thing to say. It's mobil 1s fault someone ran their car dry of oil? Not even close.
If it has the API sunburst logo (American Petroleum Institute) then its acceptable to run in the car.
These people had severe problems either leaking oil or some other kind of issue.

 

[Marceldsm]

I'm sorry but that's a really stupid thing to say. It's mobil 1s fault someone ran their car dry of oil? Not even close.
If it has the API sunburst logo (American Petroleum Institute) then its acceptable to run in the car.
These people had severe problems either leaking oil or some other kind of issue.

i know it sounds stupid however the last evo 9 was running fine until the dude used Mobil 1, 4 days later there was no oil left in the engine and there are no leaks, my friend at the dealer Opend up the engine trust me it wasent prety.

Im not bashing Mobil1 i just saying even the Dealer don t recomand sinthetic anymore on the 4g63 engine just becouse, again this is here in Montreal.

 

[TSITurbo95]

No oil left in the engine and there are no leaks? Then it was being burnt. Oil just does not "disappear". There is a reason why there was no oil in the engine, but highly doubt it's Mobil1's fault.

 

[95talongirl]

Ever since the rebuild on my car, it's seen nothing but Brad Penn. 30W for the break in, then 10w30. The machinist that did all the work to the engine recommended 10w30. So far it's been great. Good oil pressure, quiet, ect. I have probably close to 10,000 miles on the car now.

The problem with Mobil 1 is that is it formulated for new cars now. (Like most oils... ) So it doesn't have the high zinc and phospherous content that it used to have, since new cars run converters and such. Also the super thin weights you are seeing are due to the tight clearances on new engines, and to some extent the actuators and things that control functions like the variable valve timing. To thick of an oil will make it hard for it to flow through the actuators.

That being said, Brad Penn is not recommended for use on cars that still have a converter. (They even warn about that on the site!)

 

[rr06rs]

Okay guys, I didn't ask about Mobil 1. I'm just looking for responses from people pushing the stock block to see if 20w50 is appropriate for 500+ awhp or if I should be using 15 or even 10w40 due to the tighter tolerances of the stock rotating assembly??? For what its worth, I'm running Brad Penn oil.

 

[Marceldsm]

No oil left in the engine and there are no leaks? Then it was being burnt. Oil just does not "disappear". There is a reason why there was no oil in the engine, but highly doubt it's Mobil1's fault.

so how come all these cars 8 of them were using Mobil 1 apparently
again this is what the Mecanic says

Ever since the rebuild on my car, it's seen nothing but Brad Penn. 30W for the break in, then 10w30. The machinist that did all the work to the engine recommended 10w30. So far it's been great. Good oil pressure, quiet, ect. I have probably close to 10,000 miles on the car now.

The problem with Mobil 1 is that is it formulated for new cars now. (Like most oils... ) So it doesn't have the high zinc and phospherous content that it used to have, since new cars run converters and such. Also the super thin weights you are seeing are due to the tight clearances on new engines, and to some extent the actuators and things that control functions like the variable valve timing. To thick of an oil will make it hard for it to flow through the actuators.

That being said, Brad Penn is not recommended for use on cars that still have a converter. (They even warn about that on the site!)

guess that explains it for me


Again Dsm EVO engines need a high zinc and phospherous content something that Mobil 1 dosent have

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Any quality oil should have a sufficient amount of zinc, there are some that extra is added and if I recall correctly brad penn is one of them.
If your motor is especially tight you want lighter oil, not heavier.
There is too much paranoia in this thread, something was wrong with those motors, not the oil.

 

[rr06rs]

So what would be a recommended weight for a stock 6 bolt with 80k miles and stock rotating assembly/tolerances running 35lbs of boost from an hx35/40 hybrid, making around 500-550awhp and spinning the motor to 8k rpm?

 

[92 GSR-4]

So what would be a recommended weight for a stock 6 bolt with 80k miles and stock rotating assembly/tolerances running 35lbs of boost from an hx35/40 hybrid, making around 500-550awhp and spinning the motor to 8k rpm?

I'm wondering the same.

FP is using 20W-50 in their motors. I read on a website that the 20W-50 has excellent characteristics in extreme heat, and recall FP commenting on using it for oil temps above 200*. I for one (switching from Mobil 1 in light of all this), am opting to use the 20W-50 as recommended and then use 10W-30 during the winter, as the oil will be thicker in the colder temps.

I wonder if we are all overthinking this.

 

[rr06rs]

All I want to know is if 20-50 is recommended for the stock cast tolerances or just for loose forged motors? If so, would 15w40 be a good choice or would that still be too thick?

 

[H@xtGSX]

I run VR1 20w50 on the stock assembly with an 18g pushing 21 psi. It's getting through to everything just fine. I would disable the clutch switch, if you haven't already, and let it warm up before driving it when you start it after it has sat for a while. Rotella 15-40 would be my 2nd choice.

 

[Marceldsm]

FOR ALL DSM THAT HAVE MOBILE 1 PLEASE READ THIS


http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

 

[garrettjames70]

All I want to know is if 20-50 is recommended for the stock cast tolerances or just for loose forged motors? If so, would 15w40 be a good choice or would that still be too thick?

20-50 valvoline vr1 is a great choice for a stock block. It is not to thick and it is cost effective. Depending on the age of your engine it may not be a bad idea to flush it out before switching to a thicker oil. I have used 20-50 in every dsm i have ever owned and had no problems. Hope that was a specific enough anwser....not some rant about my opinion.

 

[Dert]

I run royal purple 10w40, no longer have annoying lifter tick, car seems to like it, so I do too