Which Fuel Pressure Regulator should I go with?

[-DSM2NR-]

SS lines or rubber?

http://www.importevolution.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_45&products_id=1620
or
http://www.importevolution.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_45&products_id=3629

Most people choose ss lines instead of rubber but are ss lines really that much better than rubber hoses? I would rather save $20 and spend it on something else but what do you guys recommend?
What are pros/cons for both?

 

[oldman]

Rubber- easier to install.

SS - more durable.

For $20, definitely the SS.

 

[-DSM2NR-]

ok thanks

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

My IE Aeromotive kit came with a hose that was fiber threaded rubber that was a bi*** to get on the nipples even with some trans fluid lubing it up. In fact, god himself probably couldn't get it flush -- which I didn't, but it holds great. I opted out of ss to save the extra $ as I thought it was mainly for looks. The rubber alternative in IE's kit seems very sturdy, not your typical rubber hose.

 

[dalatinromeo]

Rubber- easier to install.

SS - more durable.

For $20, definitely the SS.

Couldn't simply it better. Go with the SS kit.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The SS line hose/fittings alone are worth the $20 adder and then some.

The SS lines are more durable.
The SS lines are more abrasive than rubber. Be careful how you run them and what you have them against. The braiding can eventually wear through things (vacuum lines, other hoses, plastic items, etc.).
The SS lines are a little more difficult to install.

In the SS kit I noticed that they use a SS line for the AFPR return to the tank.........you should "peel" back some of the SS braiding from the end that goes to the hard pipe return to the tank for a better "clamp" of the hose.


The rubber hose version will be easier to install.
The rubber hose is NOT as durable.


If it was mine I would opt for the SS fuel rail feed and return (Oh, that's what I did!). Much cleaner install and less worries.


my 0.02

 

[TurboRacerGSX]

....

 

[Slow99x]

Looking at your mod list and unless it's outdated I don't think you even need to upgrade you FPR or your lines. I'm running a bigger turbo and more boost and I'm still on the stock stuff. I'm also running a bigger pump too so unless it's so you are changing the whole setup, I wouldn't bother.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

Related question...those upgraded fuel rails -- what advantage if any do they offer over stock besides looks? I checked out a few but they look very similar to stock to me.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Until you get into some really serious HP/torque numbers, they're only for looks. The OEM fuel rail should get you well into the 400+WHP range. Plenty for 95% of us.

 

[dalatinromeo]

While we are on topic. I know 95% off us wont need an upgraded fuel rail. Which brand do you think is the best performing fuel rail out there for us DSMs or are all them pretty much the same??

 

[Street Surgeon]

Magnus has -10an in and out, that's the largest that I know of and they also offer hard-anodizing to protect the rail if you're running really nasty fuel. The stock rail is actually rather large (you can slid -8an ss line all the way through it) so really if you buy 2 aluminum weld on fittings for either end you're good to go. The problem with the custom milled inserts is that though they'll allow you to run -6an to the stock fuel rail their ID is really small WTF

 

[oldman]

Looking at your mod list and unless it's outdated I don't think you even need to upgrade you FPR or your lines. I'm running a bigger turbo and more boost and I'm still on the stock stuff. I'm also running a bigger pump too so unless it's so you are changing the whole setup, I wouldn't bother.

You have the right to run and take whatever shortcuts with your car but please don't pass it on as facts. The debate on whether a larger pump will overrun the stock FPR is over.

 

[Slow99x]

What shortcuts? My wideband is giving a good reading of 11.5 @27psi of boost. The only cars I've seen FPRs upgraded on has been on inline pumps and where 1600cc injectors are used. I just stated that his setup was too small to require an FPR upgrade and gave an example of a bigger setup that still uses the stock FPR without problems.

 

[scottsee]

I bought the Importevolutions SS kit with Aeromotive 13109 with liquid fuel pressure gauge and SS filter to rail kit. Both kits come unassembled with ample amount of hose & fittings . Very nice kits.

 

[oldman]

What shortcuts? My wideband is giving a good reading of 11.5 @27psi of boost. The only cars I've seen FPRs upgraded on has been on inline pumps and where 1600cc injectors are used. I just stated that his setup was too small to require an FPR upgrade and gave an example of a bigger setup that still uses the stock FPR without problems.

Your response tells me you lack the understanding of FPR overrun. FPR overrun affects idle and part throttle situations so your WOT A/F of 11.5:1 @ 27psi has nothing to do with FPR overrun, in fact, the degree of FPR overrun lessens as the injector gets larger and boost pressure gets higher because 1600cc injectors at 27psi will use up the extra fuel produced by the larger pump faster than stock 450s at 15psi. If you're able to maintain proper base pressure as well as 1:1 rise rate with stock FPR and 255, something is already wrong with your fuel system.

 

[Slow99x]

What could be wrong? The air/fuel at idle is around 13.5 to 15.0. The only time the car has a hard time is if I go WOT then let off suddenly and let the RPMs fall off.

 

[oldman]

What could be wrong? The air/fuel at idle is around 13.5 to 15.0.

13.5 is a little rich, mine hardly dips under 14.0, if you were logging, you'll most likely find your fuel trim to be on the rich side, worst part is the degree of overrun is load base (your engine's ability to use up excess fuel) so it's impossible to tune out, you can come close but will most likely change every time you log.

The only time the car has a hard time is if I go WOT then let off suddenly and let the RPMs fall off.

Exactly one of the well known effects of FPR overrun. A more performance minded guy such as yourself sometimes focuses only on WOT, this is fine for a track only car (much like venting your PCV/breather) but as a DD, the extra fuel cost due to overrun will easily pay for an AFPR in no time.

 

[Slow99x]

I thought it's more the fact I have a Tial bov, and 272 cams, and a stock MAF sensor rather than the FPR. So what you are saying is if I upgrade my FPR it'll get rid of that problem?

 

[oldman]

I thought it's more the fact I have a Tial bov, and 272 cams, and a stock MAF sensor rather than the FPR. So what you are saying is if I upgrade my FPR it'll get rid of that problem?

Both improper venting of the BOV, as well as FPR overrun can cause your problem, taking care of the overrun will help but most likely not cure your problem. If you were to hook up a filter mounted fuel gauge, you will find your fuel pressure at idle and part throttle to be 10psi+ more than where they should be (unless you have a leak in the fuel system), making you run pig rich at idle and part throttle, as well as causing hesitation getting into and out of boost.