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Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

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rayden

20+ Year Contributor
137
0
Apr 15, 2002
ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.
 
ive seen the 2300 there on that site before i have no experence with it or have heard anything on it. It looks and sounds to be a good clutch i am in need of a clutch here shortly and will concider the 2300 just to be a ginny pig for The dsm world here :rolleyes: i dont know how long before i order or get it in but i will be shoping around for the best price for the 2300:thumb:

Good luck in your choice of clutch
and your quest for more info
or just call them http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

Later
Rob
 
My clutch is fried - the only problem is I dont have the money for an ACT. . . . is there like a middle level clutch out there thats cheaper but pretty decent? - I cant stand not driving the car but I also cant afford a 400 dollar clutch : (

let me know if theres anything out there
 
You don't have to buy the whole clutch kit from ACT. The wizest and cheapest decision for you would be to buy just the pressure plate of your choice and purchase a new disc from Mitsu. An ACT 2100 would be a good choice depending on the mods. You can purchase the plate seperately from Extreme for under $200 and get a brand new disc from your closest dealership from $50-$75. A new release bearing can be gotten at a local parts store for $15-$30. A clutch set from a parts store would cost less and get you back on the road, but if you're planning on power it just won't last. A 2100 will hold over 300hp and provide consistent launches if just drop the clutch (fun stuff...). This way you wouldn't have to switch again when you bring the power on. The choice is up to you and your bank account. Good luck:dsm:
 
Ok, now it's time for me to change my clutch, it's slipping even in 2nd gear when the Turbine spools in.
But the question is, what clutch shall I get? I just want a good clutch couse Im going for big times.
 
I thought this was the "no newbie questions" section?:p

What horsepower are you going for with your "big times"? What torque? Which turbo and setup? Daily driver? Track only car? Drag or AutoX?

You may want to tell us that first.

Oh, and BTW- use the search feature! This question has been answered a thousand times.

:barf:
 
I have searched, and I have found a lot of brands, but I just wanted sone oppinion from you guys/girls. I'm going for 10+ sec 1/4 mile and Auto X.
 
Those are not very lofty goals at all.

Im hoping to run low 12's in full street trim and faster when I run c16 and holocaust my interior. I'm running an ACT 2100 HD pressure plate and a street disc.

Make: Eagle Model: Talon Year: 89-99
Applications: Turbo, 225mm, 2-4WD, DOHC Suggested Retail Price
Clutch Kit Number: MB1-HDSS $409.70
Torque Capacity: 322
Pressure Increase: 27% Over Stock
Weight: 13.00 lbs.
ACT Pressure Plate: MB-010
ACT Disc: MBSD010S
Release Bearing: RB210
Pilot Bearing: N/A
Alignment Tool: AT20 Actual Photo
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They say 322 ft/lbs but guys have run this combo right into 11's no problems. Just don't slip for too long thats all. They can also offer a modified street disc that takes more heat and won't break down as quickly.
 
In order to get a reliable clutch that doesnt slip will I need to get the ACT 2600. I dont feel like getting a calf workout if I dont have to. My 95 gst with the following mods

2.5inch greddy evo cat back, greddy upper and lower intercooler piping with type-s blow off valve, S-AFC, 720cc injectors, frank 2 turbo, 3 inch downpipe to straitpipe, ported exhaust manifold, ported 02 with dumptube, pocketlogger,mbc, custom 3inch intake with k&N, boost gauge, egt gauge

Will the 2100 or 2300 hold just as good and last just as long or am I destined to get the 2600. I am currently trying to tune in 400whp, but I drive the car daily.
 
If you can't handle an ACT2600 on a 2nd gen, you seriously need to get off the couch and actually y'know, try that walkin' thing some time.

I've driven my ACT2600 GSX for over a year now. The only other clutches I'd go for cost over 200% more.
 
I have a ClutchMasters FX400 stage 4 ceramic puck in my 1G. Not a bad clutch. I did alot of research, and everyone was telling me "ACT ACT" over and over... well, I got to talking to real DSM mechanics, and not my buddies. I originally was going to go with the FX300 stage 3, but ran across the stage 4 pretty cheap. It chatters a bit when cold, and was VERY difficult to get used to... however, now with about 6K miles on it... I rather enjoy it. Stock clutch requires 350 psi on the pedal to activate it... the CM requires 400 psi. The biggest complaint about the ACT is that it requires 900 psi to activate it. If you get the ACT... be prepared to have a sore left leg until you get used to it.


Good luck :D


--Scott
 
Originally posted by 98TsiAWD
The cheapest place to get the ACT 2100 clutch kit with OEM throw out bearing is www.slowboyracing.com $339

Extreme is 325 but does not include the OEM throw out bearing...

I am getting the Centerforce Dual Friction 2500 clutch since I have a 2g.

Just a correction to my post. I guess RRE is $335 for the 2100 kit with oem throw out bearing so Its $4 cheaper than slowboy.
 
I'm about to get the ACT2600 clutch

should I get the 2100 or Centerforce instead?

I want a clutch that will last but not so rough for daily driving. Which one is also less prone to lead to CW?
 
The 2600 is more prone to crank walk .. what mods do you have? I heard the 2100 is similar to stock with great driveability. The 2600 with street disc isn't too bad, harder pedal pressure, but I've heard it's more prone to CW.
 
Originally posted by turbonawd
I'm about to get the ACT2600 clutch

should I get the 2100 or Centerforce instead?

I want a clutch that will last but not so rough for daily driving. Which one is also less prone to lead to CW?


What are your goals for the car?

jeff
 
A friend of mine is pretty strict about ONLY using a centerforce. He has notions of breaking massive parts with a 2600. He has been running the centerforce on his 11.6 second (not sure what speed) eclipse, and has been having fairly good RT's... Around 1.7-1.75. He's building my car however, and I want a 2600 because I'll get a longer life out of it. I also have a 4 bolt rear, 4 gear spyder diff, and a 5 lug conversion on my Galant, so I'm not so worried about breaking things. I also dont have a 7 bolt, so I don't need to worry about crankwalk. It's your choice, but If I were you I would go with a centerforce being that you have a 7 bolt.
 
I am going to need to buy another clutch to replace my stock one. I don't race the 1/4 very much at all. But would want to do road racing and auto-x.

So which clutch do you suggest for a more road racing kind of person? 2100, 2600, or Centerforce? Thanks in advance.
 
im trying to decide on a clutch to use with my setup..its going to be 550 or so hp to the wheels(not sure about torque numbers) and the car is mainly a track car with occasional driving on the street...i dont really mind harsh engagment, but i also dont want to go through trannys and drivetrain parts every other run...most people seem to stick with the act 2600..but will that be enough for me? what other options are there out there? anyone make a reasonably priced carbon/carbon cluch for dsms?

btw this is going on a 92 awd laser...thanx
 
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