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Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

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rayden

20+ Year Contributor
137
0
Apr 15, 2002
ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.
 
bartels903 said:
But with the OEM part, you know you have that favorite stop light, where you say I wanna do a quick 1-2 gear pull, well that launch everyonce and awhile will kill the OEM faster than the 2100, and the 2100 is not that much more expensive.

If you look at it that way then you should go with the 2100. I did a quick gear pull on my dads ford and I could smell the clutch burn afterwards.
 
Thanks for all the help, I decided to go with the 2100, I found a great deal on a brand new one from a guys shop for $229 shipped. A customer ordered the wrong part and he just wanted to get rid of it. Thanks for the help, Brian
 
I am about to drop in my Evo III16G and all the other mods, but now I am having problems with the stock clutch since I have to change it anyway, I am just going to buy and ACT kit now and get it over with... I do not plan on going much over 300whp since I am only dropping in an Evo3. I don't know if I should get a 2100 or 2600 ACT Street Clutch. If 2600 is overkill for my goals, then I rather save my money and get the 2100. Also, Any recommendations on what flywhell I should get to match up with this new clutch?

I searched for this, but I found too many different answers for people with different goals...
 
You are going to have differing opinions about this topic. That said, is your TSI AWD or FWD? If it is AWD get the 2600, if it is FWD get the 2100. A lightened flywheel is a good idea no matter what. Less mass to have to spin=more power.
 
I have a FWD.. I am also going to buy a new flywheel, but I don't know which flywheel would match up good with the new clutch. What hp rating does a 2100 usually have on a FWD??
 
I have a 2600 on my tsi fwd,
I got a good deal on it or else I probably would have bought a 2100.
I like having it and it works well, I feel as if it will take anything I throw at it.
but it's all a matter of preference realy.
i'd probably agree with the other guys in saying, go with the 2100 if money is a factor.
Should be fine for what you want to do. but dont be afraid of the 2600 if you have higher goals down the road.
 
MyBeatGSX said:
2600 for AWD
2100 for FWD

XACT flywheel for drag
Fidanza for auto-x


Well glad thats not written in stone...LOL

I ran a 2600 in my fwd for years with a stock flywheel. Running a big16 also. Ive have recently switched to a 2900. So its really a matter of preferance. Along with something that will support power.

Ask yourself if you plan on driving this car every day and not do much racing. If thats the case. Then yes you will be just fine with a 2100. Plus thats the closest you are going to get stock feel. A 2600 is going to feel heavy and stiff. So you better have a strong leg. heh Its not a clutch for sissys thats for sure.

Yes with any after market clutch you can run the risk of damage. So thats when its going to come down to how you drive your car. ;)

Love your axles and they will love you back...ROFL


Wendy
 
Have you considered the CenterForce Dual Friction? Has stock like pedal pressure and hold more torque then the 2100 plus is the same/easier on the thrust bearing. RRE claims it uses a 2500 pressure plate. I currently run one & would recommend it 100%. I'm also running the Xact streetlight flywheel which is a great combo. It weighs in at ~12 lbs vs the stock 18 lbs. Only thing with the CFDF clutch is you have to make sure to properly break it in, no boost for the first 500 miles.
 
Wendy, you're trapping 114mph, that must be just a tiny bit over the 300hp he's looking for.;)

mnetwork, I'd recommend the XACT for a street car. The Fidanzas are very light and even though you can get used to it, it won't be much fun to daily drive. And it depends what track. A very light flywheel can make it hard to launch smooth, it will either be bog or boil. But for auto-x the extra response from a very light flywheel will be nice.
 
MyBeatGSX said:
Wendy, you're trapping 114mph, that must be just a tiny bit over the 300hp he's looking for.;)

mnetwork, I'd recommend the XACT for a street car. The Fidanzas are very light and even though you can get used to it, it won't be much fun to daily drive. And it depends what track. A very light flywheel can make it hard to launch smooth, it will either be bog or boil. But for auto-x the extra response from a very light flywheel will be nice.

Statements like this are really up to personal opinion. Maybe in your experience you had a hard time controlling the Fidanza, but I use it and a 2100 for DD and I think it's great.
 
It's all personal preference. If you don't mind a stiff pedal the 2600 is a great clutch. The 2100 and the Centerforce will both get the job done, with minimal pedal effort over stock.

If you're AWD and not making a lot of power(550+whp) the 2600 is the best bet, although I've had great luck with my Centerforce. I've had it for almost 2 years now, with over 40 6000rpm launches in my heavy ass Galant. I slip the clutch a little when I launch and it still works fine. I'm probably around 320-350whp, maybe a little more.

Just make sure when you go through the whole system and check/replace any worn parts. The pivot ball and fork are the most common problems, then leaking hydraulics.
 
I have the 2600 and a Xact flywheel by ACT.

Works great for me and i'm nearly stock.

The 2600 is a quite stiff clutch, as you will notice after being able to put a piece of paper on the stock clutch to make it go down. After you've driven the 2600 it feels normal to you, but once you step into another car you'll realize the difference again.

I bought the 2600 as i will be upgrading in the near future, probably something similar to you with the evo3 16g. I havn't took the 2600 to the track yet so i have no input from there.

I've only driven a 2100 once before and that was on a 3g. It was a nice clutch, but i'm not sure if he was on the stock flywheel or not. The 2100 is near stock pressure, when i got into the 3g w/ the 2100 i felt like it was my own car as i drove it.

Do some more research there are a bunch of threads about the clutch choices.
 
GVR4592 said:
Some people don't even notice it, but it's a lot safer than a stock flywheel.

What makes it safer, does this have anything to do with crankwalk? Will a new flywheel help reduce the chances of getting crankwalk?
 
i use the exedy chromoly flywheel instead of aluminum flywheels the exedy is suppose to dispense heat extremely well and is still alot lighter than the stock flywheel and i dont ever fall outa boost with it...ive heard ppl say they fall outa boost faster with an aluminum flywheel but its whatever you like i guess
 
daren_p said:
Have you considered the CenterForce Dual Friction? Has stock like pedal pressure and hold more torque then the 2100 plus is the same/easier on the thrust bearing. RRE claims it uses a 2500 pressure plate. I currently run one & would recommend it 100%. I'm also running the Xact streetlight flywheel which is a great combo. It weighs in at ~12 lbs vs the stock 18 lbs. Only thing with the CFDF clutch is you have to make sure to properly break it in, no boost for the first 500 miles.


I currently have the centerforce dual friction on my car and I launch hard alot and slip the clutch and everything and it seems to hold up fine... But my hp isnt as high as a lot of these guys either so... But I am getting a new tranny possibly and I wont continue to use the cfdf clutch as it has about 10 thousand miles of hard driving on it and I just want to start with a fresh clutch in a new set up, and that set up will also include the fidanza 8lbs flywheel... Im just a little worried about that flywheel because Ive been hearing talk about getting some kind of fp bolts and yada yada for it to be secure? Starting to feel uneasy about it, besides Im not the one putting it in the car so you know....
But Centerforce is a good reliable clutch and holds up good and yes has very stock like feel... Actually almost too stock like for my preference, but I still would recommend it, but like he said you do have to break it in a certain way for 500 miles if it is to perform at its best.
 
I'm in the middle of building a 2.4L and I'm pretty much set on a 35R or equivalent turbo. I'm not sure if I'd be okay with a ACT 2900 and organic disc (probably SBR's), or if I should go twin disc, or if I should go with the 2900 and a puck disc. I'm also not sure if I need a race trans, or if I can just weld the center diff and double synchro the 2nd gear. The car won't be reved past 8300 and only shifted hard on occasion, so I don't know if going all out is necessary. By the way it's on a 94 GSX...
 
I haven't heard of anybody using the SBR disc at high horsepower levels without problems. The 2900 and a 6 puck would probably be the most affordable option.
 
Stating your intentions would be helpful. If its a race only car, then I'd weld the diff and go with a twin disk and not worry about the trans until it becomes a major problem going into 2nd. The car should shift better as soon as you go to a twin disk because of the inertial drop. If its a street car I personally would not weld the center diff, and still go with a twin disk if you don't mind some noisy chatter. If its a 100% street car then I might consider the 2900 with street disk. The puck will not hold anymore power over the street disk, just take the heat better.
 
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