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Which balance shaft elim. kit?

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RadDsm

15+ Year Contributor
1,679
24
Apr 28, 2008
Eugene, Oregon
So there are so many kits out there ranging in price, is one better than the other?

Which one would you recommed? :hmm:
 
If you don't want to piece it all together, I'd say FFWD has one of the most complete kits out there and they don't overprice it. Just DONT get a solid (no oil groove) stub shaft or you might seize your oil pump and then your engine.
 
+1 on FFWD it has the two block off bearing, stub shaft with groove and I think it's one of the only kits that comes with a spacer to take up the place of the balance shaft sprocket. I put it on my car.
 
Here's a thread on the AMS (long shaft) kit.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/329525-bse-long-shaft.html

I personally have not heard of anyone having the stubby shaft fail, so I see no reason to spend a ridiculous amount on the AMS kit.

Here are the Mitsubishi part numbers if you want to get them from your favorite parts vendor.

MD103722 - Front Balance shaft bearing
MD040597 - Rear Balance shaft bearing
MD092785 - Balance shaft cap
MD098626 - Balance shaft stub
MD128107 - Balance shaft spacer

Those are the same parts that come in the FFWD kit.
 
I'm looking into doing this as well... Can I just leave the "B" balance shaft (non-oil pump driven) in there instead of plugging the hole with "MD092785 - Balance shaft cap" -or do I need to get the cap? I'm going to take my oil pump driven BS out and lathe it down like the "long shaft" mod. The "B" balance shaft can just hang out in the block, right?
 
I did mine the cheap and easy way:

- Bought the balance shaft stub (MD098626) and balance shaft seal (MD343565)
- Took off the pump-driven balance shaft and replaced it with the stub shaft
- I then left the non-pump-driven shaft installed, put in a new seal behind it, and left the belt off

This works because the non-pump-driven shaft doesn't spin anymore, therefore, blocking the oil ports so you don't need extra block off bearings or anything. You leave the sprocket that's connected to it there and put in a new seal behind it, which eliminates the need for the cap/freeze plug that could potentially blow out or leak if installed badly.

Total the two parts you would need to buy is only $20 max. Easy.
 
what is the big deal with leaving it in? I drove mine for a year with a stock bottem end with balance shafts. dynoes at 558 at 8k. daily driven car.

I'm sure you already know this and shouldn't have to be told but some people prefer to remove them due to the fact that if the belt fails or if one of the shafts or bearings seize, it could potentially take out the timing belt with it which could bend valves and/or destroy the motor.

The vibrations felt from having no balance shafts are so negligible, it's worth the piece of mind, to me personally and the vast majority of other DSMers.

And, if you were so happy with them in the car, why did you remove them after that year?
 
I did mine the cheap and easy way:

- Bought the balance shaft stub (MD098626) and balance shaft seal (MD343565)
- Took off the pump-driven balance shaft and replaced it with the stub shaft
- I then left the non-pump-driven shaft installed, put in a new seal behind it, and left the belt off

This works because the non-pump-driven shaft doesn't spin anymore, therefore, blocking the oil ports so you don't need extra block off bearings or anything. You leave the sprocket that's connected to it there and put in a new seal behind it, which eliminates the need for the cap/freeze plug that could potentially blow out or leak if installed badly.

OK, so it sounds like you CAN just leave the other shaft hanging out in the block & like you said, it provides better sealing than a freeze plug or Mitsu BS plug (and it's cheaper). Did you turn the front bearing in the B-Balance shaft so that you block the oil passage? (this should be the only one that matters because the rear bearing oil is fed through the center of the BS shaft)

I took apart my B-Balance shaft today... Here's the exploded view.

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OK, so it sounds like you CAN just leave the other shaft hanging out in the block & like you said, it provides better sealing than a freeze plug or Mitsu BS plug (and it's cheaper). Did you turn the front bearing in the B-Balance shaft so that you block the oil passage? (this should be the only one that matters because the rear bearing oil is fed through the center of the BS shaft)

I took apart my B-Balance shaft today... Here's the exploded view.

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I didn't touch any of the bearings when I did mine on my new motor. 15k miles later I have yet to have a single issue. Made 444hp/398tq and runs 25psi daily on the FP3065.
 

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I didn't touch any of the bearings when I did mine on my new motor. 15k miles later I have yet to have a single issue. Made 444hp/398tq and runs 25psi daily on the FP3065.

Cool, Then that's what I'll do. Leave the B-balance shaft in the block, don't put a belt on it. RTV the heck out of the threads on the tensioner pulley & lathe down the oil pump driven BS. Thanks a lot man. :thumb:
 
Can you post back whenever you get it install? Pics would also be nice.:thumb:

just cut the weight on the end off and turn the shaft down on a lathe; maybe get a local machine shop to quote it. what pictures are you looking for specifically?

shim stock on the bearing surface...
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live center
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finished product
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YouTube - EVO Race Balance Shaft On The Lathe
 

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When i take motors to my buddy at his machine shop i never buy bse kits he does it at his shop and doesnt charge me anything extra heres a pic of 1 of my 6-bolt stroker blocks he did
 

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