RadDsm
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,679
- 24
- Apr 28, 2008
-
Eugene,
Oregon
So there are so many kits out there ranging in price, is one better than the other?
Which one would you recommed?
Which one would you recommed?

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what is the big deal with leaving it in? I drove mine for a year with a stock bottem end with balance shafts. dynoes at 558 at 8k. daily driven car.
I did mine the cheap and easy way:
- Bought the balance shaft stub (MD098626) and balance shaft seal (MD343565)
- Took off the pump-driven balance shaft and replaced it with the stub shaft
- I then left the non-pump-driven shaft installed, put in a new seal behind it, and left the belt off
This works because the non-pump-driven shaft doesn't spin anymore, therefore, blocking the oil ports so you don't need extra block off bearings or anything. You leave the sprocket that's connected to it there and put in a new seal behind it, which eliminates the need for the cap/freeze plug that could potentially blow out or leak if installed badly.
OK, so it sounds like you CAN just leave the other shaft hanging out in the block & like you said, it provides better sealing than a freeze plug or Mitsu BS plug (and it's cheaper). Did you turn the front bearing in the B-Balance shaft so that you block the oil passage? (this should be the only one that matters because the rear bearing oil is fed through the center of the BS shaft)
I took apart my B-Balance shaft today... Here's the exploded view.
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I didn't touch any of the bearings when I did mine on my new motor. 15k miles later I have yet to have a single issue. Made 444hp/398tq and runs 25psi daily on the FP3065.
1+ ams race kit iv got one on the way
Can you post back whenever you get it install? Pics would also be nice.
Just dont get a SBR kit.