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Where to start Upgrading my 90 Talon tsi

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Trevor-DOHC

Probationary Member
23
0
Apr 5, 2010
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
I know that it is a possibility this Question has been asked before so i am sorry if I am asking again.

I'm just wanting to know where would be the best place to start looking at as to UPGRADING my TALON?? Specs: It is purely stock nothing done besides the new Walbro 255 pump 250,000K ruffly

What parts do I start spending my MONEY on & Why? From a more Experienced perspective PLEASE! :confused:
 
maintenance ,maintenance, maintenance.... with a 250,000k you dont want to break your engine like me its not fun.
 
hahaha ya ###### wouldnt wanna destroy my only means of transport for now! So just basically follow the tech paths? hmmmm ok.
Just thought some people do it differently find it better you now. Thats all!
 
If you just put in the walbro, you should think about an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator as the pump may over run the stock one. I've read that some people have no problems while others do.

Another good start to upgrading would be an ECU upgrade. No matter what setup you're running your car will run like crap if it's not tuned right.
 
First, make sure maintenance is done. What is your budget? What are your goals for the car? Get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator for the 255 like someone said.
 
If I were you, honestly, I would pull the motor and do a rebuild.. Modding a old and tired engine is a NONO and is just calling for disaster. Burn't pistons, scorching cylinder walls ect.. But if you insist on modding it, do a compression test, take the head off and check the cylinder walls and piston top. Maybe check the clearance between the piston and the wall. And 10000% change the timing belt and tensioner!

Have fun, these cars are wonderful machines if taken care of correctly.
 
If I were you, honestly, I would pull the motor and do a rebuild.. Modding a old and tired engine is a NONO and is just calling for disaster. Burn't pistons, scorching cylinder walls ect.. But if you insist on modding it, do a compression test, take the head off and check the cylinder walls and piston top. Maybe check the clearance between the piston and the wall. And 10000% change the timing belt and tensioner!

Have fun, these cars are wonderful machines if taken care of correctly.

are you on crack?

if there's no known problems don't worry about it. with proper maintenance and proper preventive maintenance measures, he will be fine.

so please, hush. thanks :thumb:
 
also, the tech articles and the upgrade paths were not made by newbs. they were a collective gathering of trial and errors that keeps growing from the wisemen of the dsm world.

now, if you have a better question than "im to lazy to read and search," we would be more responsive. but welcome to this relationship. you will either keep it, or leave it.
 
Modding a old and tired engine is a NO-NO]
Which I agree with. That motor, even though it runs and operates fine, will need to be rebuilt if serious modding is to take place.

For clearances, with a rebuild, will be more tighter and stronger to handle the more HP and torque along with combustion chamber pressure from high pressure inductions, and doing all of this on a motor with loose tolerances, head with well-worn valve seats and what have you, could destroy the motor in minutes if not adjusted for the added work from modding.
 
Which I agree with. That motor, even though it runs and operates fine, will need to be rebuilt if serious modding is to take place.

For clearances, with a rebuild, will be more tighter and stronger to handle the more HP and torque along with combustion chamber pressure from high pressure inductions, and doing all of this on a motor with loose tolerances, head with well-worn valve seats and what have you, could destroy the motor in minutes if not adjusted for the added work from modding.

once again, i understand your philosophy. but, i turbo'd a nissan 240sx that had 230xxx miles, and the car didn't blow up till 330xxx and all it was, was a broken cam gear. and it was driven on 18-24lbs on a gt30. ran high 12s every weekend as well.
 
Which I agree with. That motor, even though it runs and operates fine, will need to be rebuilt if serious modding is to take place.

For clearances, with a rebuild, will be more tighter and stronger to handle the more HP and torque along with combustion chamber pressure from high pressure inductions, and doing all of this on a motor with loose tolerances, head with well-worn valve seats and what have you, could destroy the motor in minutes if not adjusted for the added work from modding.

Run it till it blows, then rebuild it. Why spend money on what isn't broken? We don't all build race tear downs every time.
 
Only thing I suggest when you get to the buy a SAFC stage to consider biting the bullet and save for ecmlink instead. SAFC is really a bandaid to get things working correctly when there are much more easier and capable options available. ECMlink does logging, tuning, and everything else you will ever need.
 
Which I agree with. That motor, even though it runs and operates fine, will need to be rebuilt if serious modding is to take place.

For clearances, with a rebuild, will be more tighter and stronger to handle the more HP and torque along with combustion chamber pressure from high pressure inductions, and doing all of this on a motor with loose tolerances, head with well-worn valve seats and what have you, could destroy the motor in minutes if not adjusted for the added work from modding.

you can also blow the engine by turning up the boost and not adding enough fuel.

improper tuning is the key to blowing things up. if tuned properly and effectively he will have no issues.

so please tell me why you are right.
 
The first goals, and with any car maintenance, learn now or later, half do it or get too excited and modding stuff,uh oh, what broke. im glad i took my time and took it one day at a time. Now i have a car witih few problems.
 
so please tell me why you are right.
Right in the simple fact of doing things right the first time - not half-assed it while you go along. Just the chance and maybe his motor won't have any problems after mods - who knows?
but, i turbo'd a nissan 240sx that had 230xxx miles, and the car didn't blow up till 330xxx and all it was, was a broken cam gear. and it was driven on 18-24lbs on a gt30. ran high 12s every weekend as well
...umm, but that's a Nissan with the DOHC KA24DE under the hood, not a 4G63 ... kinda different motor here. Thus, is it really fair to post someone else's motor on here and then try to do a comparison and try to say the 4G63 will act like the KA24DE in the same operation?
 
...umm, but that's a Nissan with the DOHC KA24DE under the hood, not a 4G63 ... kinda different motor here. Thus, is it really fair to post someone else's motor on here and then try to do a comparison and try to say the 4G63 will act like the KA24DE in the same operation?

anything will last with careful maintenance.
 
Right in the simple fact of doing things right the first time - not half-assed it while you go along. Just the chance and maybe his motor won't have any problems after mods - who knows?
...umm, but that's a Nissan with the DOHC KA24DE under the hood, not a 4G63 ... kinda different motor here. Thus, is it really fair to post someone else's motor on here and then try to do a comparison and try to say the 4G63 will act like the KA24DE in the same operation?

lets see the most power on stock internals was like 500, and on our 4g63 stock internals its close to 600.

the 4g63 is stronger than a ka. KA aren't designed for boost, ours are. :applause:
 
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