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1G Where to buy 1G knock sensors in 2024

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justacanuck

Proven Member
118
62
Dec 19, 2023
Cypress County, AB, Canada
I'm having trouble figuring out where we can purchase replacement knock sensors in 2024. I've read some older threads, and read a few mentions of alternate Mitsubishi part numbers that could work.

We keep seeing this phantom knock in our logs.

The goo seems to have leaked out of our sensor so I'm really thinking our knock sensor is just way too sensitive.
 
This is one of the parts that the supply chain has failed us. Supposedly, a Miata knock sensor can be made to work, if you’d like to give that a shot. Otherwise, you may be waiting around for a used one to pop up. Act quickly.

It would be great if we had a voltage response plot for an OE sensor and the Mazda and other brands and induce light, repeatable but true knock (Standard Motor Products, etc. ie. Whatever we can still find)
 
I have a supply for my rebuild needs and trust GDP and have used them. I thought I had 2 to show but I don't. My plugs were identical. That was at least 2 years ago tho.
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Here is what your knock sensor looks like INSIDE.
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Marty
 

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This is another reference but the days of options are coming to a close. I think this sensor is legit or at least the tag makes it seem like that I really don’t know. KS32 knock sensor.

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This is another reference but the days of options are coming to a close. I think this sensor is legit or at least the tag makes it seem like that I really don’t know. KS32 knock sensor.

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That looks like the 2g style sensor, right?
 
Is it? I know I’ve looked it up but all I have on my list is the name. It’s the same plug as the one Marty posted. I just read the post and had this from a pile of parts I picked up. The 2 cars were 1G’s but the sensor itself is different.

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@Dericsh is correct.
KS32 - 2g.
KS28 (no longer made by standard motors) - 1g.
I talked with one of Standard Motors engineers about the KS28, as Standard has a plant here in town. He said they farmed the KS28 out to a Philippines company or something like that but I can't find anyone reproducing them ATM. They are still making the KS32. He said the "goo" in our 1g sensors had some metallic substance (mercury or such? I can't remember) and worked with the piezo element.
Marty
 
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@Dericsh is correct.
KS32 - 2g.
KS28 (no longer made by standard motors) - 1g.
I talked with one of Standard Motors engineers about the KS28, as Standard has a plant here in town. He said they farmed the KS28 out to a Philippines company or something like that but I can't find anyone reproducing them ATM. They are still making the KS32. He said the "goo" in our 1g sensors had some metallic substance (mercury or such? I can't remember) and worked with the piezo element.
Marty
From what I understand, the 2G sensor is better and picks up knock a lot better than a obd1 era sensor but we do not like to use them because they read better and most likely need a standalone to play with the knock counter. There’s an old thread and a AEM engineer explained it to a dsmtalk member.

Dericsh,
Thanks for confirming. That was from a big parts lot I picked up and the box has 2013 on it.
 
Unfortunately there's no way to be absolutely certain unless you can see an OE 2g and the Evo sensor detect the exact same knock at the same time, or be 100% certain that you can reproduce the exact same knock whilst testing each sensor separately. Neither of which is physically possible.

I don't see where there is reliable mention of this PN superseding the standard 2g sensor.

It may be no different than a 2g sensor being mounted on a 6 bolt block, where "good enough" applies greatly, since the evo 4-9s are also 7 bolt blocks and share more in common with a 2g 7bolt than a 1g 6bolt. The difference is in the ecu. But black box 2g and regular link-compatible ECUs share the same knock circuitry/algorithms since a 2g sensor is compatible with both.

The Evo sensor is also discontinued from my lookies.. so dwindling stock will apply.
 
So much for a thread about 1g knock sensors. If someone starts a new thread or revives an old one about 2g knock sensors I’ll share how to get an oem evo8 Mitsubishi one.

Try to stay on topic, for people who may search in the future.

I’m going to try to find the time to test my original and still functioning 1g sensor against the GPD one @1990TSIAWDTALON posted earlier. I’ll need to force my car to detonate, so that I can keep the car constant while only changing sensors.
 
Someone suggested the 99 miata knock sensors are Identical. Looks very similar to me. Would not be hard to just solder a mitsu plug on it.
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So much for a thread about 1g knock sensors. If someone starts a new thread or revives an old one about 2g knock sensors I’ll share how to get an oem evo8 Mitsubishi one.

Try to stay on topic, for people who may search in the future.

I’m going to try to find the time to test my original and still functioning 1g sensor against the GPD one @1990TSIAWDTALON posted earlier. I’ll need to force my car to detonate, so that I can keep the car constant while only changing sensors.
Attempting to force the car to detonate is still not a completely reliable control as environment and engine running conditions are constantly changing variables. Unless you have a way to reproduce the exact same conditions and exact same number of (what would be picked up by the OE sensor as) raw counts, this would be a test of "can it detect any knock" and not "can it detect the same exact amount of knock". If your car decides on a run to not exhibit detonation by way of the log, you don't know if it's just because it didn't have the conditions to or if the aftermarket sensor just didn't pick up the instance of knock that a factory would. If it succeeds at missing specific instances because repetitive sensitivity issues it could be the difference between the ECU calculating 2 degrees of retard [low-to-mild] vs 4 [mild-to-high] vs 7 [potentially catastrophic]. The occurrence of phantom knock being detected due to poor sensor construction throws more fire onto the wood. It's notoriously difficult to test two differing pieces of equipment when you can't control all of the variables of the test.

that being said, we don't have many options, so as long as we go into this with open eyes and hearts, we're basically handing safety of our motors over to the lowest aftermarket bidder. Whoopie!

Good luck in your tests, I do hope they're fruitful.
 
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