Where do I begin. Car runs like crap. P0110 and P0105

[stud3737]

So to begin off I have my first DSM. 1998 GSX. When I first got it, it was really misfiring and threw the P0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire. I changed my plugs and wires and my coil packs were bad so I replaced both of them. It now runs a bit better but idles around 1200 to 2000. I took it to where my bro works and ran a smoke machine through it to see if there is any vacuum leaks and there was none. We hooked up snap on scan tool and got codes P0110 and P0105, so the map sensor and intake air temp(but those didn't set off the check engine light, only the P0300 did) I unplugged the MAF and it ran like complete crap and stuttered and popped a bit (running rich correct?). I cleaned the MAF and the wiring harness and wires are all fine to the MAF plug in. The car seems quite bogged down IMO. This car is completely stock and has its balance shafts removed. I'm a newbie to the Mitsubishi world haha. I've been looking for a few weeks and I'm just completely lost and don't want to throw away money at parts that might not be bad. I haven't found anything on the forums or Google etc. I'm just stuck here scratching my head on what to do...

Thanks for your time!

 

[WES_393]

P0110 is Intake Temp circuit malfunction and P0105 is Barometric Sensor circuit malfunction (we don't have a factory MAP sensor). Both of which are located at the MAF sensor. I'd try swapping in a know working MAF sensor.

 

[stud3737]

No junk yards around here have one... Do you think that'd be my problem?

 

[Afizzle]

He usually gives good advice. Id go with what he says. Contact someone in your area with a good MAF. A good place to start is the region forums or DSM tuners or DSMTuners.com on facebook. Someone will help you out.

Also I see that youve run a vacuum test but that does not rule out all intake leaks. You need to do some research on how to boost leak test and run one before you hit the streets. I promise you your lower injector seals and biss o-ring are letting boost by which will make the car run like shit.

Its 20$ and a compressor. You hook the home made tester up to your turbo inlet and pressurize the system 5 lbs over what you run and spray every connection in the ENTIRE intake system that sees boost with soapy water. If it creates bubbles then you are leaking air that has already been accounted for thus creating a rich mixture.

Another way to look at it is very cheap horsepower. Since the car is turbo, a boost leak is throwing everything off, even if its a small one. You will find out that a BLT is your best friend because it will solve a lot of problems before you spend a lot of money on new sensors.

Boost Leak Testing - YouTube

 

[stud3737]

Thank you for the info I'll get around to doing that this week and keep you guys updated! I doubt I'd really be able to find someone to let me borrow there's unless I had to drive a few hrs from where I live but I'll look around and see if I can find someone!

Where and what is a biss o ring? I never heard of it... And when I changed my coil packs I also checked out the injectors and the o rings and they looked fine. Should I just replace the o rings to be safe?

 

[WES_393]

No junk yards around here have one... Do you think that'd be my problem?

According to the ECU, that is the problem.

Where and what is a biss o ring? I never heard of it... And when I changed my coil packs I also checked out the injectors and the o rings and they looked fine. Should I just replace the o rings to be safe?

The O-rings could look perfect and still leak under boost, so never a good idea to just assume they're good. The BISS is on the throttle body. It's a screw that's recessed in the top of the throttle body.

I'd replace the MAF, fix any boost leaks you find, and go from there.

 

[gusu]

If you want to verify the MAF is dead read post five in this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/279488-maf-mas-test-check.html#post151385215

 

[stud3737]

I'm going to order the o rings and get a boost leak tester tonight and check the voltage on the MAF tomorrow when I get time too do that. If my MAF is for sure bad do I have to get the stock factory one or is there a better after market one I could get instead? Or no because it is the stock airbox

The reason I'm not just ordering a MAF right away is because of the cost so I have to wait one more week. I am sure it probably is bad though

 

[Twinturbo120]

I'm going to order the o rings and get a boost leak tester tonight and check the voltage on the MAF tomorrow when I get time too do that. If my MAF is for sure bad do I have to get the stock factory one or is there a better after market one I could get instead? Or no because it is the stock airbox

The reason I'm not just ordering a MAF right away is because of the cost so I have to wait one more week. I am sure it probably is bad though

Just get the factory one, less headaches.

 

[Afizzle]

The biss is the idle adjustment screw. There is a little o ring in there that leaks boost which is essentially a vacuum leak. Also the seals on the injectors where they meet the head go bad too. They appear fine and intact but they are hard and plastic-like which are not air tight. New OEM ones are rubbery and create and air tight seal around the base of the injector.

On a turbo car a boost leak is like a vacuum leak and can produce the same symptoms. The biss o-ring is 2$ and the lower injector seals are 8$ and come w/ injector o-rings if you order from ExtremePSI.com

Btw Im not talking about the o-rings on top of the injectors where they go into the rail. If those arent leaking fuel then leave em' alone. Its the lower seals that leak AIR, that need to be fixed.

A boost leak tester, compressor, and bottle of soapy water will tell all.

Oh and when you find a leak, fix it and retest. Air takes the path of least resistance so a leak may not show because its purging from somewhere else.

 

[stud3737]

Just ordered my boost leak tester and getting my o rings tomorrow. If we don't have a factory MAP sensor then what is that sensor that's in the center of the intake manifold?

And thanks so much for your help you guys!

Another thing that doesn't really make sense to me is when you first start it, it'll usually misfires hardcore then but after its been running for a bit it's more of a slight one if that makes sense

 

[WES_393]

Just ordered my boost leak tester and getting my o rings tomorrow. If we don't have a factory MAP sensor then what is that sensor that's in the center of the intake manifold?

The 2-bolt sensor on top of the intake manifold is the MDP (Manifold Differential Pressure) sensor. It only reads positive or negative pressure and is purely for emissions purposes. An actual MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor measures the specific pressure/vacuum in the manifold, which is typically used to control fuel delivery.

 

[stud3737]

Oh ok that makes sense. All that emission stuff is annoying . So for that biss o ring on here ( PN for biss o-ring? - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com) says a #5 from home depot. Could I justdo tthat or should I get the one from extreme psi to be safe? It's like 12 on there with shipping for one little o ring, kind of ridiculous haha

 

[WES_393]

If you can get the same thing locally for cheaper, then go for it.

Also, when replacing the BISS O-ring, you should at least try to keep track of how many turns it took to remove, or how far down the screw was. It would be best to reset the idle though.

2G BISS Adjustment

 

[stud3737]

How do you reset the idle, adjust the IAC? So I keep track of how many turns it takes to remove it, put new o ring on then put it back in same amount then what next? Do you need the scan tool for this?

 

[WES_393]

It's all in the link I posted above.

 

[stud3737]

Sooooo that'd be a yes then dumb question my bad

What brand of MAF should I buy if I get it from rock auto? I wanna make sure I get a good one since its a major part. I have used beck arnley in the past with my other car and for the coil packs on this one. . Also another thing is my Gsx the person who had it before me when he put the engine in, he put in a heavy duty clutch. And I've heard when change clutch on 7 bolt they had idle problems and they got a Crank position(or angle? I don't remember right now exactly) and that fixed it. Should I buy that as well or what do you guys think? Oh and my engine was from a 99 and got rid of the balance shafts

 

[stud3737]

I got a boost leak tester but it has the compressor fitting on it and not a valve stem. I don't know how to adjust the amount of pressure so the air compressor doesn't give it to much. It is a big one and used at a farm so I don't wanna mess with anything on there. Is there an adapter deal I can buy? If so can someone please send me a link to what I need to get

 

[stud3737]

Anybody...?...

 

[SICK SOCIETY DSM90]

With a boost leak tester like that I would have a buddy help you if possible. From the you you tube videos Ive watched they have sprayed soap water around all the major possible leake spots and then pressurized system to 5psi over what there boost they will be running. The only one ive seen had a valve and they left the compressor on it so you can see if its holding or leaking slowly but you will hear the leak and if it will not go to your boost level then you know you have leaks just listen for them and use the soapy water method and you will be fine. The spots that where sprayed where fuel injector where it seats to the block throttle body elbow all intercooler couplers or anywhere it attaches hope this helps.

 

[stud3737]

Can you find a pic of what the part that goes on compressor looks like?

 

[SICK SOCIETY DSM90]

[ame=http://youtu.be/T963989F3c0]How to do a boost leak test - YouTube[/ame] here is a video that shows everything should help you out for a boost tester without a tire stem valve. Hope this is what you needed

 

[stud3737]

That is what I need thank you! I now found what I need to finish the setup for the testing. I wasn't sure what pressure regulator to get but I found one now

 

[SICK SOCIETY DSM90]

Glad i could help ya out.