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My car runs like Crap

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Norcalgsx707

10+ Year Contributor
564
0
Jun 28, 2012
lake county, California
I dont even know were to start, Its a 95 Gsx has the whole 16g upgrade path like talked about on this site, 255hp fuel pump, dsmlink,big evo 16g, injen intake, ipt shift kit, MBC, Afpr, exhaust is , its slow of the line doesnt like to push past 80 its a auto, some times it idles hi other times it idles low and sometimes it idles normal LOL I have no idea were to begin
 
Got a good tune? Slow off the line? Are you brake boosting? Get bigger injectors and a fmic...
 
sometimes its like this, "you can throw all the parts and money at the car that you want, but if it aint set up correctly, you'll never be fast" its all in the tune, its all in the set-up. all the little things make a huge differance. does the car have full maintnence? if the car was a person and went to a doctor could it pass physical exam?

theres so many little things that go into this stuff. just because a guy picks up the 'oh-so wonderfull 16g' and dsmlink doesnt mean he's gonna be blastin low 12's and high 11's in the 1/4.

are all the intercooler pipes perfect lined up? do the couplers leak? is the fuel filter 18years old? are the mechanical timing marks all perfect? how about base ignition timing? injector sizing done correctly in link? global? deadtime? has the trans ever been serviced? new tranny filter? fluid flush?

its the differance between using a real K&N air filter or a Specra rip off one from Shucks. all these thing play a important roll my friend. give us all some more info on what is up. info info info, these guys on here are gonna want more.
 
@ Dsmcure, yes my car has been tuned you have to tune it somewhat in order for the 680 cc injectors to work. Everything that you mentioned is good New fuel filter old one was shot, I serviced my own tranny, took out the old fluid and put new fluid in there 3 times while doing the ipt shift kit install, I have a Injen intak and the filter is in excellent condition, but heres the deal I have no driving tune, car leaks a little oil and a little tranny fluid, the timing marks aI really do not know how to mess with
 
I have a gst stock.Its a 98 run o 3 cinder.plug in cinder 1 was nothing lefted.Put new one in ran fine for a day.Back to this plug good pulled injector plug on number 1 nothing change.Pull the other 3 there a change.
 
Wow that's the worst description of a power balance test I've ever heard.

Power Balance? I thought it was the "Hokey Pokey" song!?ROFL
Just kidding man - but an explanation and better step by step description that is numbered would probably help since this is the "Noob section." :thumb:

You have dsm link...use it! I am also going to say it needs a tune if it's running like crap with all those mods.
 
Check for objects rattling in the engine bay that may be triggering false knock. What octane fuel are you running? Boost level? Timing advance? We need to know these things
 
I would try and fix the leaks first and search for any other leaks you might have missed that would potentially cause high idle. Rule out the small stuff first before moving into the big stuff,tuning etc. As far as you doing your own tuning I sure hope you know exactly how to tune it and not just plug in numbers. Just by getting it tuned to run on the street doesn't necessarily mean you can run 12's. If you dont have much knowledge on Link I would do some research first before potentially damaging your engine. thats being said, you dont need crazy mods to run high numbers a perfect tune with decent mods can do substantial HP.
 
How do u post logs again I will go drive and log everything

Not sure I don't even have link in my car yet but I've tuned other platforms with good success. One way I used to find out I had false knock on my Mazda when I was tuning was to put 3 gallons of e85 in the tank with my regular 93 octane gas. Scale the maf about 10% to get the airfuel numbers in range. And do a wot pull, the knock should be gone. If not pull some timing in the knocking region and retest. If it still doesn't go away chances are it's false
 
Sounds weird but sometimes car will idle higheror lower if the AC is on. The slow to start issue may be plugs and wires. I had an issue off the line for a bit and threw some automatic transmission repair fluid in and it's fine now. Did any of these problems exhist before you added all that stuff?
 
Are you running the stock bov? Sounds like a potential set of problems that could come about because of a few boost leaks and an Unrecirculated blow off.
Regardless, if you tuned it and accounted for that air being recirculated but are not actually sending it back into the intake it will cause a bad idle (usually high) along with the car falling flat on its face during shifts (or launching potentially) because it's running rich.
 
Boost leak test first, then move towards lowering boost and bringing it up slowly while monitoring knock. Check your plugs for fouling at all?
 
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