car sounds like airplane, runs like crap!

[ninety7gst]

I think everything that I do to fix my car eventually hurts it.
I finally got my running rich, and boosting problem fixed and now my car is even worse!
now when I try and start it when it's cold i have 2 keep my foot on the gas to keep it running until the coolant is aobut 100 degrees, even then it sounds like an airplane, or a big old chevy pickup that uses oil! glug glug glug. I don't know what to do, i just bought a compression checker and im gonna ccheck my compression soon (whenever i can manage it between school and work) I NEED a car... thanks for checking this out, i hope it makes sense....

btw... my car has a 50 trim turbo, ecu+, 650cc injectors, 255 walbro fuel pump, vented bov, i don't think anything else is important...

its also doesn't run right, its very boggish and the glugging gets louder w/ higher rpms...

 

[Tevenor]

A AFPR is like $150 and like you said I don't think that would effect the grand scheme of things "keeping it running wise, it'd just be running rich" I'll probably go ahead and buy that fuel pressure tester and see what it is running. And no my bov isn't opening at idle, I've tested that more than once, I'm gonna take out the ECU+ and see how it runs w/o it. and pale no it doesn't log knock and by LTFT do you mean low throttle fuel trim? i've never heard of that abbreviation be4 ...I don't think it logs that either...I have everything 0'd out right now. sorry guys I seem like a dumbass...hell i might be, it's just that I was trusting the wrong people i guess...

You don't get the picture.

If you don't run an AFPR to TURN DOWN THE PRESSURE, your injectors will be running at some unknown pressure, such as 55 psi for example. The Stock ecu fuel maps expect the injectors to be at a baseline 43 psi. So now everytime it wants to squirt X amount of fuel, it squirts X + the offset amount between 43 psi and 55 psi.

In other words, YOU ARE RUNNING TO DAMN RICH.

The stock ecu (and any piggyback thereof) expects a 1:1 increase in fuel pressure to match boost, starting at 43 psi at 0 vac/boost and rising from there. Any offset in this base fuel pressure will offset the ecu's actual fuel metering over what it expects.

On a side note, 1G psi base is not 43 psi, it's 38 psi.

 

[ninety7gst]

i'm not sure but i think maybe the timing is off...i'm gonna take it 2n a shop and have them check it out...it's about time for me to get it looked at...and the thing is that you adjust your afc to compensate for the increased fuel pressure, that's what they were telling me, and that your afc can handle that just fine since it's not a super-high flow fuel pump...correct me if im still wrong ^^

 

[Omega]

Dude, take a step back and listen to the wisemen. Saying that it could be this or that will get you nowhere.

It has been suggested that the FP is wrong.. If you don't want to spend the money on the FPR, at least check the FP (with the vacuum line disconnected).

Do what has been suggested, then go down your list of "it could be" items that people have been telling you.

 

[ninety7gst]

well i can't figure what's wrong with it....i think its electrical and most peeps here think its mechanical (fuel)
I'm takin it 2 the shop tomorrow (satan) and they said they'll do full diagonistics on it for $70 so i was like sure! but i'll keep you guys posted on what they find out....thanks for all your help

 

[kalla]

It really does amaze me how people will spend a ton of $ on new motors, exhaust, turbos and slap it together without doing any homework first. It amazes me further that when they have trouble and people tell them to hit the books, they won't hit the books. Just like the other guy said, with the added power comes the responsibility to study up on what you plan to do (or just did). Not doing this homework means your problems won't get solved, or even worse, you'll get a toasted motor.

 

[T_Eclipse]

Well, I'm just going to go ahead and ask this question. I'm starting to learn about this car and this was the only thread I could find indirectly related to my question. I'm running stock everying except for the for the air intake and it's freaking freezing here and when I cold start my car it just seems like it is running harder in idle to warm itself up. It is this normal or am I running into the same problems as ninety7gst. Should I run the same tests on my car as well?

 

[ArticNemesis]

Well, I'm just going to go ahead and ask this question. I'm starting to learn about this car and this was the only thread I could find indirectly related to my question. I'm running stock everying except for the for the air intake and it's freaking freezing here and when I cold start my car it just seems like it is running harder in idle to warm itself up. It is this normal or am I running into the same problems as ninety7gst. Should I run the same tests on my car as well?

It's normal, cold starts will idle higher to get the engine up to operating temperature. Nothing to worry about.

To kalla. Hey, it's not our money. We suggested with what was wrong (cough.. cough.. FPR.) But people on here tend not to listen for some reason. Ohwell. Let's see what the dealer says.

 

[T_Eclipse]

It's normal, cold starts will idle higher to get the engine up to operating temperature. Nothing to worry about.

To kalla. Hey, it's not our money. We suggested with what was wrong (cough.. cough.. FPR.) But people on here tend not to listen for some reason. Ohwell. Let's see what the dealer says.

Thanx for the info.

(Going to all the moderators, wisemen, and people who have been on dsmtuners.com for a long time)<-- I imagine that the same questions popup every year from some newbie like myself about why the engine feels like it's running harder in the winter. Or something about how cold it is relating to how the engine runs. There is now a another thread started for practically the same problem. :laugh:

 

[92AWD_VDSM]

It's normal, cold starts will idle higher to get the engine up to operating temperature. Nothing to worry about.

To kalla. Hey, it's not our money. We suggested with what was wrong (cough.. cough.. FPR.) But people on here tend not to listen for some reason. Ohwell. Let's see what the dealer says.

I would like to pipe in and say that although I never had a problem not starting or idling with my 255... My base fp was about 62... got an aftermarket unit and lowered it to 40. People need to realize that you cannot just buy 2000 dollars worth of ecu's,injectors,frontmounts and or turbos and expect to run well... YOU NEED PROFESSIONAL TUNING.... Nuff said

 

[ninety7gst]

kalla i bought the car w. the motor in it...the turbo the fuel pump and all that stuff, i did add a few things myself but not the motor, just to inform you

 

[ninety7gst]

oh i forgot to post what the dealership said
"we ran into our first conflict, your sparkplugs are drowned in fuel and your wires aren't in to good of shape either"
then i said i just replaced the plugs and he said yeh but their still soaked in fuel you need new ones, so i said ok -cha ching $$$ $18 $$$ then he said wanna replace the wires? i said sure -cha ching $$$ $63 $$$ labor for all that he said 1.5 hours $90 (plenty of time to have lunch in w/ chaning those wires i say...) so the parts come in tomorrow morning, i'll report what they find later (probably 2 much fuel pressure like ya'll said that caused the plugs to drown, and just old wires probably...)

 

[ArticNemesis]

probably 2 much fuel pressure like ya'll said that caused the plugs to drown, and just old wires probably...)

BINGO!!!!!

 

[ninety7gst]

got it back today!!! yay
t'was the sparkplug wires and sparkplugs

i'm gonna buy a wideband o2 sensor and tune w/ it an an AFPR & FP gauge cuz it's still running rich

hope this thread helps many others!!

 

[MattnGsx]

Wow you bought some plugs and wires from the dealership??? and for 90 buxs :laugh:

Im guessing there stock plugs and wires too. Most likley your going to need colder plugs and bigger wires for you setup, other wise your going to have more problems later.