wheel bearing wobble

[akdov823]

I installed brand new front hub bearing. There is no motor or trans installed, there for there are no axles. The bearing wobbles as a bad bearing would, but I'm hoping this is because I have not torqued an axles down yet? Also the other side seems tighter then usual, it spins but doesn't spin as free as the loose one.

 

[tmoney20g]

correct, the axle in and tight makes the assembly how it should be. without it you'll have up/down wobble.

Even the manual states that if you have to move the car around without axles, you should install a huge bolt and washers to tighten the assembly as if an axle was in there.

 

[akdov823]

that is a big bolt. you think i'm hurting them with the car sitting on the wheels with no axles then?

 

[jared98gst]

Theres stress where there normally wouldn't be id put it on stands. Granted seen some wild condition wheel bearings roll into a shop before driven daily

 

[bjones18]

Bearing pre-load is a HUGE issue... Too much -bearing failure... not enough - slop & failure.

Sitting in your garage, the biggest issue is probably falling apart (which is not a small problem). Stick any bolt & washer in there to hold it together (easier than you think). (google double row ball bearing...images). NOTHING holds the two sides together except the "drive-spline-nut sandwich." a quick bolt-washer (anything) will hold it together..

If you have properly googled.... you will find a cross-section of the double-row bearing. Contact of the ball & race are set at a specific angle to provide vertical & lateral load-support during normal driving. Left and right are not "welded together." The spline-shaft & nut-assembly torque holds it together.

Ball-bearings are much more sensitive to pre-load as compared with taper-roller bearings.

How much you torque your axle-nut... provides... the pre-load to the wheel bearing.... which is not a good thing. BEARING PRELOAD DETERMINES BEARING LIFE.

The OEM specified torque procedure for the axle-nut/bearing is best. Personally, I use the old method used when packing grease in wheel bearings..... snug-nut/ rotate hub/ un-torque nut/ apply ~5 ft-lbs to nut such that rotating drag is acceptable.... Again.... follow the OEM spec for success.

 

[akdov823]

Well I cranked some bolts in there this morning, I did not think i needed to break out the torque for it just sitting there.. But when I do install the axles, the manual suggest 145-185 ftlbs? That's what you guys are doing? Seems excessive.

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[akdov823]

Bearing pre-load is a HUGE issue... Too much -bearing failure... not enough - slop & failure.

Sitting in your garage, the biggest issue is probably falling apart (which is not a small problem). Stick any bolt & washer in there to hold it together (easier than you think). (google double row ball bearing...images). NOTHING holds the two sides together except the "drive-spline-nut sandwich." a quick bolt-washer (anything) will hold it together..

If you have properly googled.... you will find a cross-section of the double-row bearing. Contact of the ball & race are set at a specific angle to provide vertical & lateral load-support during normal driving. Left and right are not "welded together." The spline-shaft & nut-assembly torque holds it together.

Ball-bearings are much more sensitive to pre-load as compared with taper-roller bearings.

How much you torque your axle-nut... provides... the pre-load to the wheel bearing.... which is not a good thing. BEARING PRELOAD DETERMINES BEARING LIFE.

The OEM specified torque procedure for the axle-nut/bearing is best. Personally, I use the old method used when packing grease in wheel bearings..... snug-nut/ rotate hub/ un-torque nut/ apply ~5 ft-lbs to nut such that rotating drag is acceptable.... Again.... follow the OEM spec for success.

And thanks for the reply it was very helpful

 

[bjones18]

I mis-spoke about the procedure I used. I was thinking about my boat trailer bearings. Everything else is good.

If I remember correct, the axle nut has a belleville washer that "buffers" the axial load achieved when torqueing. Testing the drag by rotating is difficult due to the driveline being engaged.

Again the temp bolt is just there to keep it together and torque is not a big deal.