Wheel bearing

[BLUEBLOTCH]

My front driver side wheel bearing is bad, what do I do?

Can I repack it or do I need to replace it?

I know on my Talon I was able to repack I dont on the eclipse. TIA!

 

[allgripnoslip]

you cant repack the bearings on 2g's. They come only as a complete Hub assembly and must be replaced as such. Sometimes the Axle can become seized inside the hub making it impossible to remove. hub assemblies range from 80-130. Replacement would be the only way. If you keep driving on a bad bearing theres a chance that the hub can separate from the bearing causing the wheel to fly off.

 

[MrBoxx]

Mitsubishi uses a sealed hub/bearing design. There's no repacking involved. The hub assembly bolts onto the knuckle with four bolts. Once those are unscrewed, a puller tool is used with an air-ratchet to press against the end of the axle while simultaneously pulling the hub off the splines of the axle. However, this method usually fails when the hub is seized onto the spline, as they are wont to do in wetter climates. If the bearing seizes, the usual fix is to cut the hub off with a torch, which almost always ruins the axle, and sometimes can fry the speed sensor.

It's usually best to let an experienced mechanic deal with these, since a puller tool can turn the end of the axle into a mushroom if used improperly. Bearings can usually be bought only from a dealership; not many auto-stores carry them, if any at all. Make sure whoever does the replacement uses plenty of anti-sieze on the splines of the axle, especially if you have to replace that too.

 

[Talon ESI-T]

I repack, and rebuild mine. The problem with the hubs is they dry out and wear increases. Unless you have a press, disassembling the hub will be very difficult. At this time I have a set that need to be rebuilt, if you need one I can work on them tonight and tomarrow to see if I will have one available by wed. The rebuild process is not like rebuilding a motor. If there is any wear on the races, the bearing is garbage. If your just hearing a slight whine, they may be rebuildable, they may not. the only parts replacable are the ball bearings themselves. Races have to be sourced by aquiring used assemblies.

I repack mine every 2 years

For the record i have yet to tackle a seized axle that cant be pulled. Its all in the amount of effort and technique.

Terry

 

[BLUEBLOTCH]

Which one would I need?

http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...F&mfrpartnumber=BR930214&parttype=184&ptset=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BCA&mfrpartnumber=513157&parttype=184&ptset=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...F&mfrpartnumber=BR930214&parttype=184&ptset=A

The first and last one have different part numbers and prices.

 

[Talon ESI-T]

you would have to call and verify to find out.

The front bearing is the same for ABS and NON ABS.

The rear is different (FWD ABS VS NON ABS) but the only difference is the trigger wheel on the back side. This trigger wheel is removable and last i checked most places just sell you the ABS one to avoid stocking excess parts.

AWD Rear is obviously different.

Terry

 

[Enraged78]

Here's the way I found to be the easiest if you're replacing the hub assembly on your high-mileage salt-belt DSM.

1. Pull the cotter pin out of the axle nut (if you can), and get an impact gun on the axle nut. Once you get it off, throw both the nut and pin away. You'll need new ones anyway.

2. Pull the axle spline from the halfshaft or transmission housing (if you're working on the front of the car). Use the transmission VFAQ if you are unfamiliar on how to do this. It's not as hard as you think.

3. Stick a six-ton three jaw puller on the end of the axle, using the teeth on the outside of the hub, and pray to God it comes free. 90% of the time, it will not come free. Usually, you'll wind up destroying the axle end, or breaking the hub into two pieces. Two bearings ago, I had one just laugh at a 12 ton press. It took a 25 ton press to get it free. Don't use heat on this, as it takes forever, and you're probably not going to be able to save the axle anyway.

4. Once you've given up hope on saving your $200.00 axle, cut the axle right in the middle of the shaft. Why? Because once you get the four bolts to unbolt the hub from the knuckle, you can't get it out if the axle is together. The axle is toast anyway.

5. Remove the four bolts that connect the hub to the knuckle. Some sockets are too big for this, as the clearance between the bolt head and axle is very tight. I was able to get them off by working at it for a while, but the axle would spin as I was making contact while turning. Don't mess with the speed sensor, as they become very brittle, and will break when you try to remove it. If you have an early 2G, consider removing the ABS entirely, as it sucks.

6. Pull the remaining axle shaft and knuckle out of the hub assembly. This should be easy. If not, hit your new axle stub with a hammer. Should pop right out.

7. Bolt up the new axle and hub assembly, and torque down everything per the factory manual.

I've gone through this four times already. It just happened again last week. Mind you, I have no problem pulling a tranny or engine out of a DSM, and I just said screw it and let a local shop do it for me. Most of the time, wheel bearings are just not worth the head ache.

If you do this yourself, get an OEM axle. Aftermarket axles are cheaper, and weaker. You can find OEMs for a little over $200.00 if you look hard enough, and OEM hub assemblies are about $100.00. If your car has over 100K on it, and has seen snow, count on this costing about $300.00 in parts alone. Be sure to use plenty of anti-sieze or synthetic grease when putting everything back together. I like using lots of grease, as anti-sieze does wear moving parts. You DON'T want to do this again.

Good luck,
Matt.

 

[Talon ESI-T]

Just for the record, buy the correct puller. It is a puller that bolts to the hub with the wheel studs. The puller is more effective than a 12ton press. I own both and i have seen axles that will not come out with the press but will come out with the puller.

The advantage of the puller is you crank the arbor tight and strike the end of it with a hammer. The shock from the hammer makes the axle move. It will move so slightly that you wont see it but you will be able to crank the arbor 1/4 turn tighter. Keep the process up till its out. It takes a while but it works.

I wish i could get a frozen axle that failed the 12ton press and actually do a video on this. Unfortunately all my axles have come out numberous times already.

Terry

 

[Enraged78]

Just for the record, buy the correct puller. It is a puller that bolts to the hub with the wheel studs. The puller is more effective than a 12ton press. I own both and i have seen axles that will not come out with the press but will come out with the puller.

The advantage of the puller is you crank the arbor tight and strike the end of it with a hammer. The shock from the hammer makes the axle move. It will move so slightly that you wont see it but you will be able to crank the arbor 1/4 turn tighter. Keep the process up till its out. It takes a while but it works.

I wish i could get a frozen axle that failed the 12ton press and actually do a video on this. Unfortunately all my axles have come out numberous times already.

Terry

You have a part number, price, etc? I'd love to get my hands on one of these for the next time a wheel bearing goes south on me. Sure would haved saved me a small fortune on new axles.

Thanks,
Matt.

 

[jtmcinder]

Highest signal-to-noise ratio thread in a while. Thanks, guys.

(Sorry to interrupt.)

- Jtoby

 

[Talon ESI-T]

Highest signal-to-noise ratio thread in a while. Thanks, guys.

(Sorry to interrupt.)

- Jtoby

I dont get it? I know I am dense.


Snap on puller CJ129

Now i know most people are not mechanics and Snap-On is too expensive for the average hobbiest. This puller cost me 70.00 and it was well worth it for me. I can get you a picture so you can find a cheaper alternative but considering how robust this is built i would recommnd buying it and spending the cash.

Terry

 

[jtmcinder]

All is well. I probably should not have posted, but I really meant what I wrote: great conversation.

- Jtoby

 

[Enraged78]

Snap on puller CJ129

Now i know most people are not mechanics and Snap-On is too expensive for the average hobbiest. This puller cost me 70.00 and it was well worth it for me. I can get you a picture so you can find a cheaper alternative but considering how robust this is built i would recommnd buying it and spending the cash.

Terry

No, that's a perfectly fine amount of money to ask for a product like that. I bought my six ton puller for $20.00, but would have gladly paid $70.00 if it worked like the snap on does. The puller does OK for what it's designed for, but the torue and hammer approach of the SnapOn sounds like it would work much better, especially when it can save you the cost of a new axle, and the headache of having to get a frozen one out to begin with.

Matt.

 

[Scrubulum]

I just disassembled my right side one. It was seized very well. The dealer (who just did my lower control arm recall) couldn't get it apart when they did the recall. I pulled off the whole steering knuckle and hit it with a sledge hammer for 3 hours straight with zero movement. I don't know if a puller would have helped much. I ended up unbolting the hub and pulling the shaft through the wrong way (trashes the ABS sensor, but ABS didn't work anyway). My hub was fused to the knuckle as well so this required some persuading as well. Then I had to grind down the OD of the CV bell as it wouldn't fit through the knuckle (corrosion). MMM salt. Anyway. . . got a new hub assembly from Advanced Auto and new (not reman) CV is coming from Napa (also new output seal). Should be going back together today.

 

[MrBoxx]

If you can, please post a few pics of the condition of some of the parts that you had trouble with. I'd like to see, just out of curiosity, and I'm sure some others would too.

What kind of warranties do the new hub assembly and CV shaft have on them? If I remember right, the axles that Autozone sell have a lifetime warranty on them. Just wondering for the next time I have to replace one.

 

[Scrubulum]

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Steering knuckle with new hub assembly. Hub is bolted on from the back. You can get it off without taking out the CV but it is a lot easier to get to the bolts if you at least undo the tie rod end and slide the CV most of the way out of the spline.

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What was left of the half shaft. Note that the hub is attached to it still.

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Close up of the fused CV end and hub assembly. The OD of the CV is ground down to allow it to fit through the steering knuckle. I think it will fit without the grinding by everything was so rusted that it wouldn't go. I decided to ease its passing a little.

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The damage is due to beating the living daylights out of the CV tring to get the hub and splines to seperate. I tried for a while when it was on the car, then took the whole knuckle off and put it in a vice, heated it, sprayed it with PB and introduced it to the 16 lb sledge hammer. All to no avail. I was about to give up with I decided to see if it would fit through the knuckle as a unit.

The car is back together today. I drove it to work. The alignment is way off since I replaced a tie rod end as well but I will get that taken care of soon. No more nasty bearing sounds.
Hope this helps someone, someday.

 

[MrBoxx]

Ahh.. you have to love corrosion, don't you? Wow. The new hub looks good, though. Thank you for the pics.

 

[Scrubulum]

I forgot to mention the Axle that I got from Napa has a lifetime on it as well. The bearing from Advance Auto has a 1 year defect warranty (it was made in China). It matched up well and mounted right on as the OEM one did. I took the precaution of lathering it up with high temp antiseize both on the splines and on the section that fits into the knuckle. Just in case I ever have to take it back apart.

It looked really nice on there, it probably is a mess now as it snowed today on my way to work. Oh well. I thought about painting it before installing it but decided against it as it was too cold to paint and I wanted to get it back together.

 

[Scrubulum]

Update, input appreciated!

Just as an update. The advance auto parts bearing went out after less than a month. I talked to the guy there and he said they have been having a lot of problems with them. I got them to refund me instead of replacing it (I didn't want to put another crap bearing in). I got another bearing from Checkers and it was $10 more expensive but had a 2 year waranty and just looked a lot beter made. Less then a month later I just noticed today that it too is shot!. Called the dealer and they want $165 for one. Advance Auto has a more expensive one too.

Does anyone have any long term replationships with wheel bearings? I think I will get the current one replaced for now. But if it goes again I wan't to know what everyone else has used.
Thanks

 

[Enraged78]

Update, input appreciated!

Just as an update. The advance auto parts bearing went out after less than a month. I talked to the guy there and he said they have been having a lot of problems with them. I got them to refund me instead of replacing it (I didn't want to put another crap bearing in). I got another bearing from Checkers and it was $10 more expensive but had a 2 year waranty and just looked a lot beter made. Less then a month later I just noticed today that it too is shot!. Called the dealer and they want $165 for one. Advance Auto has a more expensive one too.

Does anyone have any long term replationships with wheel bearings? I think I will get the current one replaced for now. But if it goes again I wan't to know what everyone else has used.
Thanks

Get the dealer part. That's what I used on all four of my replacment bearings. If the originals lasted me 160-180K, I expect the same of their replacments. Don't cheap out on wheel bearings. The install alone isn't worth the $20.00 you save.

Matt.

 

[Talon ESI-T]

I have a rebuilt factory bearing if you want it. 45.00+shipping. I take factory bearings and rebuild them. I only have 1 front and 2 rears left. They are not rock auto bearings where they cram a sealed bearing into the hub and cal it a day. these are refurbished or rebuilt factory units built to factory specs.

Terry

 

[Scrubulum]

I have a rebuilt factory bearing if you want it. 45.00+shipping. I take factory bearings and rebuild them. I only have 1 front and 2 rears left. They are not rock auto bearings where they cram a sealed bearing into the hub and cal it a day. these are refurbished or rebuilt factory units built to factory specs.

Terry

Thanks for the offer but put it in the classifides where it belongs

 

[Scrubulum]

Get the dealer part. That's what I used on all four of my replacment bearings. If the originals lasted me 160-180K, I expect the same of their replacments. Don't cheap out on wheel bearings. The install alone isn't worth the $20.00 you save.

Matt.

Th install isn't that bad once you have done it once. All the parts come off really easily now. Plus I have power tools. But thanks for the advice. Like I said, I think I will try the cheap ones again because they are $70 cheaper. Then if they fail I will get them to refund me and buy the OEM ones.

 

[BLUEBLOTCH]

Damn since it got resurrected I'll update.

Got a bearing from O'reilly auto parts worked well then hear a scraping from my car teh next night at about 5AM after a night of partying just dropped one girl off in a housing developement on the edge of town and going to drop off another. I was pissed. called my brother and he came and picked us up. Girl lost heel in soft ground on side of road had to carry her to his car.

Got it towed to my house by a friend with a tow truck, pulled it apart after work and realized my brother didnt fully tighten up one of the four main bolts in the back. the bolt head was rubbing against the CV joint. I was pissed.


other than that has worked great! and really not that hard to do If your decently familiar with DSM suspension you should have a prob reaplcing it yourself.

 

[wret]

I re-read this thread after having performed my first hub replacement last weekend. I'm glad I didn't read it before starting the job. Damn, some of you guys had a hard time of it!

I bought a hub puller from an ebay vendor, they're going for about $50 these days. The "hub puller," a seriously heavy-duty piece of hardware, separated the axles from the hubs so easily, I wasn't sure it was really necessary. It did not, however, help me pull the hubs, as the name would imply. A standard BFH was required for that, but it only took a few minutes on the back side of each hub to pop them out.

To satisfy my curiosity, and maybe help out people needing to replace hubs in the future, has anyone had a hard time separating the axles while using a hub puller?